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2 blown turbos

Started by fitnesstrainermd, March 25, 2016, 07:21:20 PM

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Sabtaj1

13 Eco flex.

Stainless works non cat DP/ MRT axle back/ Airaid cai/ 170 T-stat/ 3 bar map/ 1 step colder plugs/ snow stage 3/ hot pipes w/TIAL BOV/ torrie tuned-SCT/

glock-coma

Great job!! You just saved yourself at least 2g's.
Can't believe how DESTROYED that BOV is.

Until you block off the damaged port/charge pipe you still won't see boost.
If you do go VTA you'll need to block off the recirculation pipe opening.
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

ecoboostsho

Agreed with Glock...you can't "just" swap the front to rear (if I read that right)? You will need to cap it so it will hold 10-15 lbs of boost since it is leaking or entirely remove it and fashion some type of block off plate. Or ideally overnight yourself a new one and swap it...

Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
2013 White SHO w/PP, Gearhead Tuned, 3 Bar, 160T, Plugs...Mess with the Bull and you'll get the Horn. :)
Previous 2011 Tuxedo Black SHO w/PP - 12.89 1/4 Mile

Sabtaj1

I only said swap the front to the rear because the rear one has to be plugged in so it doesn't throw a code. And also mentioned that if he was not able to make a block plate for the front BOV that he could simply gut the crappy one that came from the rear and cap off both the plug in side and the air side of the crappy valve since it's leaking throughout. The front one can be unplugged and not throw a code.  I'd like to hear an update.  This is just to get by until you have the new BOV of course.  Sorry for the confusion
13 Eco flex.

Stainless works non cat DP/ MRT axle back/ Airaid cai/ 170 T-stat/ 3 bar map/ 1 step colder plugs/ snow stage 3/ hot pipes w/TIAL BOV/ torrie tuned-SCT/

glock-coma

Quote from: Sabtaj1 on March 27, 2016, 08:17:07 PM
I only said swap the front to the rear because the rear one has to be plugged in so it doesn't throw a code. And also mentioned that if he was not able to make a block plate for the front BOV that he could simply gut the crappy one that came from the rear and cap off both the plug in side and the air side of the crappy valve since it's leaking throughout. The front one can be unplugged and not throw a code.  I'd like to hear an update.  This is just to get by until you have the new BOV of course.  Sorry for the confusion

Good advise sab, I didn't read previous post. But you nailed it on the head.
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

fitnesstrainermd

Guys.  I just made a major discovery.  Atleast I think it is.  look at the pic attached.  On the throttle body right beneath the sensor with the red cap.  There is a black circular thing sticking out.  On my car, its not there. there is a hole there like the cap (or whatever it is,) is missing.  I included the photo for BigMac's hotpipe install and mine is beneath it.  What is that part, how important is it and could that be part of my boost issues since its on the throttle body?
2013 SHO PP, black, PPE Catted Downpipes, Magnaflo catback exhaust, Gearhead 93 tune, SP-542 plugs, EPP noisemaker eliminator pipe, MDesign CAI, 3-Bar,

BiGMaC

Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 28, 2016, 12:03:53 AM
Guys.  I just made a major discovery.  Atleast I think it is.  look at the pic attached.  On the throttle body right beneath the sensor with the red cap.  There is a black circular thing sticking out.  On my car, its not there. there is a hole there like the cap (or whatever it is,) is missing.  I included the photo for BigMac's hotpipe install and mine is beneath it.  What is that part, how important is it and could that be part of my boost issues since its on the throttle body?

Good find! It's why we post all the pics.   
The same "opening" is capped on the pic of my car... And I just looked under the hood to verify that. The large circular object (white) is the throttle plate controller and the opening (that should be capped) below the electrical connection is around the medial end of the control bar that crosses and holds the throttle plate .... It actually rotates to open and close the throttle plate. There is a mirror image on the lateral side. I do believe it should be capped. You can see the engagement grooves for the cap that is missing. It very well could be causing a turbo leak... Or even a throttle problem in our drive by wire systems.

Start the car, engine cool, and cover it with your hand or a sheet of stiff paper.  It should pull a vacuum at idle if it is in fact open to the charge system an manifold. Even if it doesn't, get a cap to protect the gears and electric motor.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

SHOdded

Definitely could be on to something:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3947

Should get the throttle body replaced (a very DIY job if no warranty).
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

BiGMaC

Quote from: SHOdded on March 28, 2016, 12:49:00 AM
Definitely could be on to something:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3947

Should get the throttle body replaced (a very DIY job if no warranty).
Great link Manu!  I remember that discussion now. ...But wouldn't just replacing the TB servo assembly be enough... Or is it all connected so well it comes as a unit?

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

SHOdded

Sometimes you can get the servo separately, IME the throttle body is much more readily available.  I have been able to locate the servo/capacitor for the Edge before, so ...
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

bpd1151

Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 28, 2016, 12:03:53 AM There is a black circular thing sticking out. 

On my car, its not there.

There is a hole there like the cap (or whatever it is) is missing.   

What is that part, how important is it and could that be part of my boost issues since its on the throttle body?

No need for alarm. It is just simply a dust cover.

There's no significant importance to it.

Mine blew off years ago, no issues.

Doesn't affect anything (having it gone).

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

fitnesstrainermd

#71
Update on BOV:
Had the dealer go grab one from another dealer and will pick up this afternoon and install myself. (They refer to the BOV as a seal-valve.  The parts guy had no FI what a BOV was).  Still no Turbo so hope this helps address the issue.  If not, still waiting to hear if Ford HQ will pay for two new Turbos' since so close to powertrain warranty. 
2013 SHO PP, black, PPE Catted Downpipes, Magnaflo catback exhaust, Gearhead 93 tune, SP-542 plugs, EPP noisemaker eliminator pipe, MDesign CAI, 3-Bar,

glock-coma

Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 28, 2016, 01:51:12 PM
Update on BOV:
Had the dealer go grab one from another dealer and will pick up this afternoon and install myself. (They refer to the BOV as a seal-valve.  The parts guy had no FI what a BOV was).  Still no Turbo so hope this helps address the issue.  If not, still waiting to hear if Ford HQ will pay for two new Turbos' since so close to powertrain warranty.
Any update? Did you change it out?
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

SHOw-Me State

Looking through this thread, seems I am missing some posts....namely between page 3 and 4.  I cannot see the discovery or any pics ofmthe damaged BOV???  Is the missing info due to the forum move?
2011 SHO non-PP, Ingot Silver, 2013 fender vents, all stock (for now).
Future: Tune, 3-bar, new plugs.  Catted DP and exhaust someday.

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!