Quote from: AJP turbo on September 11, 2018, 10:22:45 AM
There is temp logic that can cut power and throttle and all sorts of things but I think the front differential is an open type diff so usually there is only 1 dominate wheel. But the front is all mechanical I think so there is no way for it to cause excessive front wheel spin any more than normal. The diff is open and the PTU is gear/chain drive I thought....Are you sure you aren't just blowing off 1 front tire and not getting traction from the rear diff?
I will get a log to be sure .. but it starts good, gets about half to 3/4 through the power band, hops the wheel maybe one or two times then completely disengages the fronts until you stop and power it off and on.
this morning it did not fully disengage, but it would not upshift until it hit 4500 rpm in auto mode.
after i log it i will go back to stock and try to reproduce it again, maybe i just did not try hard enough. but to me, as a seat of the pants diagnosis .. it seems to be cutting the power deliberately .. MAYBE when it is cold.
in my 2 hour drive it was nearly perfect after it was hot.
maybe it is time to just rebuild the tune from scratch ? i do have new turbos, new ptu, new plugs, new boost solenoid...
EDIT: this has happened once before at the track a few years ago. when i launched it got my foot stuck (boots) on the brake and did not launch until well past the stall limit on the TQ converter. it was about 3000 rpm.. it hoped the wheel super bad and the fronts stopped working. i coasted / drove slowly with the rears to the 'pull out' and it would not go back into gear. power cycled it and it was fine. this feels EXACTLY like that time.