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2010 MKS no turbo power/negative boost

Started by salsathe4th, November 03, 2015, 01:54:18 PM

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salsathe4th

There are no pending, past, or present codes that torque could read. Also it feels like the car is starting to be more responsive. Probably because the weather got warmer the last 2 days. When it gets colder it'll probably start acting weird again. I kinda think its the fuel that i got since i rarely get 87 octane and felt like filling up cheap for what i needed at the moment. Probably not a good decision. I just really hope it's not a turbo issue  O:-)
"Do or do not, there is no try"         2010 MKS, 22" Motiv Maranello Rims, Mdesign CAI with VTA, LMS 4X tune and lovin' it
-master yoda

FoMoCoSHO

Quote from: salsathe4th on November 03, 2015, 01:54:18 PM
Lately I've been having problems with my car not getting its full potential when WOT. When I WOT i can hear the whirring of my engine increase then quickly drop and not fully contain the boost pressure. (The turbos continue to spool up but the power from them gets released) I ran the torque app and found out that at low speed i have -12 psi and at WOT it would go to 7 then quickly go to 0 or even negative. I feel like that shouldn't happen when i am accelerating. The only time I can get more then 0 is when the car quickly downshifts but yet that doesn't last as long as it should (to the end of the gear). From a dead stop to pressing on the gas pedal the boost psi rarely goes positive. If anyone could help me with this issue that'd be great :)

These ECU's are torque based so they will vary the boost to hit driver requested torque up to the ECU (Ford or your tuner) imposed torque limits. Your max and part throttle boost will change due to a variety of factors such as cold weather when the air is denser. The ecu will not have to command as much boost to get to the requested torque. From what I understand it commands less torque as the revs climb as well. You can see it on a dyno graph, the Torque peaks quickly then tends to drop moving up in revs. This may be what you are experiencing. When cruising you should see negative boost (vacuum). Does the power seem linear or is it jerky?

What are you using to monitor boost?

salsathe4th

jerky and sometimes when i take off the car will get like a hop/shake or two which makes my foot move which then moves the gas pedal back and forth and makes the skipping very obvious.
"Do or do not, there is no try"         2010 MKS, 22" Motiv Maranello Rims, Mdesign CAI with VTA, LMS 4X tune and lovin' it
-master yoda

glock-coma

Quote from: salsathe4th on November 05, 2015, 12:05:22 AM
jerky and sometimes when i take off the car will get like a hop/shake or two which makes my foot move which then moves the gas pedal back and forth and makes the skipping very obvious.
This almost sounds like wheel hop.

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk

2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

salsathe4th

no its not he wheels hoping this happens even if i take off from zero like normal acceleration or even slower
"Do or do not, there is no try"         2010 MKS, 22" Motiv Maranello Rims, Mdesign CAI with VTA, LMS 4X tune and lovin' it
-master yoda

SHOdded

Could be a failing motor mount/trans mount.  The "shake" should be evident on both hard launches and sharp decelerations w/o brake pedal input.  Check to see if there is any oily film on them.  Also check the subframe bushings for play/rot.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

pmezo33

Assuming it is the turbo, and i have no clue if it is or isn't, you might want to check to see if that part's covered under the powertrain warranty.  The MKS has a 70k /6 year powertrain warranty, so you might be covered.  How many miles do you have on the car? 

Just something to consider.

salsathe4th

870,000 btw i still need to change the plugs, ptu, and rdu fluid. If any of those can be the reason
"Do or do not, there is no try"         2010 MKS, 22" Motiv Maranello Rims, Mdesign CAI with VTA, LMS 4X tune and lovin' it
-master yoda

nickstewartroc

Did an extra 0 hop in there or are you almost 1 million miles?
Current:
2013 Ruby Red Flex Limited EcoBoost, Unleashed Tuned, drop in filter

Gone but not forgotten: 2011 SHO Non-PP in Black Tuxedo Metallic - Catback, DPs, Stoptech Z23s, MDesign CAI, LMS Tune

salsathe4th

Quote from: nickstewartroc on November 05, 2015, 04:28:37 PM
Did an extra 0 hop in there or are you almost 1 million miles?

87,000* this ain't no diesel
"Do or do not, there is no try"         2010 MKS, 22" Motiv Maranello Rims, Mdesign CAI with VTA, LMS 4X tune and lovin' it
-master yoda

SHOdded

I would say that having someone look over the MKS in person is a good idea at this point.  Rule out the turbo piping, trans fluid, PTU fluid, etc.  Would not hesitate to take glock up on his offer ...
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!