Quote from: StealBlueSHO on May 22, 2019, 09:31:43 PM
Installed the UPR dual valve catch can with CSS...
What a PIA... the long line that goes to the intake and CSS was not long enough to really hide it... needed a few more inches...
We will see how it works...
Side note... the Fuel-It Bluetooth sensor connector is cheap AF... the pins are sliding out... so I'm gonna have to figure that one out... maybe a dab is silicon on the back side to hold them...
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I have the same UPR kit, you can tuck that line going over your radiator reservoir. It's a pain but you have to disconnect there, and bring it in under the IC to TB pipe, I believe under or in between the compressor lines and route it to that area but in order to do that you need to disconnect all the lines and remove the canister as they will be in the way. Basically need to route that line first, then the other lines, it all works better if you route all the lines first, connect to canister without the canister secured, secure canister to bracket last. I also disconnected a fuel line as that appeared in my way with the dirty side.
When I get my SHO back I can show you if you have any more trouble with it. I too was equally dismayed with my initial attempts to route rhe lines with no instructions. You would think for the cost it would have some .....but apparently not lol!
The check valve that comes with it is good but they sell a high pressure check valve to "upgrade" for another $50 if I recall. The explanation I got from UPR is the check valve that comes with it works fine but what is your goal with the car? "To track it and I don't drive it much. It basically sits and then goes WOT, repeat."
You'll want the upgraded high pressure check valve as there is a potential under high pressure for some vapors in the canister to go through the check valve.....? Isn't that the whole point of the catch can? Why put an inferior check valve there? I upgraded but not without asking why they didn't just make the kit with the high pressure check valves to begin with? I don't like that stuff....make a great kit but keep one part of it upgradeable? For something like this I think it should sold with everything included...and stop throwing in check valves that aren't high pressure. Tiny rant over.
I really do like the kit. I also found that the top of the oil cap would slide and not turn the base to remove it, if you need to remove your engine cover. If I need to remove my engine cover I disconnect the oil cap line, pop the top out of its base, and use channel locks to gently secure the base and turn to remove it.
Let me know if you get it rerouted and what your initial impressions are. You might as well try not to look in it for at least 3k. What I got wasn't much at 3k but swishing it around in the canister I thought...well Im still glad this crap didn't make it through.
