New to me 2010 SHO, fluid questions..

[TopherSho]

Been lurking and searching foe a few hours and have the idea that the "life time fluid" is bunk.  But I am 100% no longer capable of doing these things myself.

Being that the SHO's have been around for 6 odd years now would I expect any 'guff' if I ask the local Ford dealer to change the fluids out (front tranny and RDU)?  Or should a *reputable* ford dealer acknowledged that the fluid should be cycled in the front AND back and just quote a price...

My sho has 40k miles.  Is a 2010 NON-PP.

Here is the reason for the Question :: From the looks of it and the OEM year 2009 *original* tires and new battery I found I suspect it sat for some time after the 1st owner traded it in and it went to auction.   If I had to guess from the tire rot it sat for at least a year.  so ..

1) is the tranny fluid and RDU oil toxic at this point and I should go straight to "get that s%^t out" ?
2) will OEM fluids in the tranny and RDU hold up to long term standing and its 'fine for now' ?
3) is it possible for the 'quick change' places to get fluid samples out of the transmission and "RDU" or should I ask the dealer for a white sheet splat ?
4) Kind if a duh,  but should I NOT drag strip it before changing the fluid and tuning it ?

The intended use of the car is daily driver + 3bar + colder plugs at .030 + tuner from Torrie with a 91-tune.  *Maybe* downpipes at a later time.

Thoughts for the Noob ?  Any and all are appreciated...

[SHOdded]

Welcome to the community, Topher, and congrats!

Personally, buying a used car is buying a black box, you don't really know what ya got.  So the safest thing to do is invest in all new fluids at a minimum.  Yes, you are likely to get pushback at the dealer on the PTU, maybe even the RDU.  But I would then ask to talk to the transmission specialist and explain to him/her exactly what you are asking to be done (see HOWTO section).  IF they still resist, take the work to a Lincoln dealer and try the same tack there.  Otherwise, you can try transmission shops, or BG driveline service centers (bgfindashop.com).
PTU - http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1706.0.html
RDU - http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1708.0.html

Best yet, there might be a forum member reasonably close to you who is familiar with the process, and can help you out.  Doesn't hurt to ask.

So:  being a 2010 with such low mileage:
New tires - if you are looking for a year-round setup, Continental DWS06, Pirelli Cinturato P7, General G- MAX, etc. work well
New fluids - transmission, PTU, RDU, coolant, brake, and of course engine oil
New brakes - aftermarket or upgrade to a 2013+ PP setup (in the HOWTO section)
New air filter (K&N dropin if you want something a bit better)
New cabin filter (you won't believe how cruddy the PO's let it get)

You are already planning on new plugs, so that's good.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.0.html

[pmezo33]

If this were me, I'd change:

PTU fluid
RDU fluid
Trans fluid flush or 3x drain and fill
Oil change - full synthetic
Rotors and brakes
Brake fluid flush
Cabin air filter
Air filter
Spark plugs - motorcraft sp534's
Coolant flush

You don't know how the car was maintained prior to you, so i'd just kind of hit the reset button on everything.  All pretty simple things to do.

[TopherSho]

Welcome to the community, Topher, and congrats!

Personally, buying a used car is buying a black box, you don't really know what ya got.  So the safest thing to do is invest in all new fluids at a minimum.  Yes, you are likely to get pushback at the dealer on the PTU, maybe even the RDU.  But I would then ask to talk to the transmission specialist and explain to him/her exactly what you are asking to be done (see HOWTO section).  IF they still resist, take the work to a Lincoln dealer and try the same tack there.  Otherwise, you can try transmission shops, or BG driveline service centers (bgfindashop.com).
PTU - http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1706.0.html
RDU - http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1708.0.html

Best yet, there might be a forum member reasonably close to you who is familiar with the process, and can help you out.  Doesn't hurt to ask.

So:  being a 2010 with such low mileage:
New tires - if you are looking for a year-round setup, Continental DWS06, Pirelli Cinturato P7, General G- MAX, etc. work well
New fluids - transmission, PTU, RDU, coolant, brake, and of course engine oil
New brakes - aftermarket or upgrade to a 2013+ PP setup (in the HOWTO section)
New air filter (K&N dropin if you want something a bit better)
New cabin filter (you won't believe how cruddy the PO's let it get)

You are already planning on new plugs, so that's good.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.0.html

Conit's DWS06's already on board as of yesterday K&N on order as well.
New cabin filter.. did not even think of it yet.  on the list now.
Ok I will try the Ford and Lincoln dealers.. luckily I have 4 within range,  2 local and 2 road trip dealers up north.

The brake job looks like a great add. That will get done next tax season,  and maybe some HFC+new down pipes to help the exhaust turbine breath easier.

Thank you for your feedback..

[TopherSho]

If this were me, I'd change:

PTU fluid.
RDU fluid
Trans fluid flush or 3x drain and fill
Oil change - full synthetic
Rotors and brakes
Brake fluid flush
Cabin air filter
Air filter
Spark plugs - motorcraft sp534's
Coolant flush

You don't know how the car was maintained prior to you, so i'd just kind of hit the reset button on everything.  All pretty simple things to do.

Ah coolant flush was not on the list.  it looked good did not smell acidic but its on the list now.  Thank Ye sir..

[pmezo33]

You don't know how the car was maintained prior to you, so i'd just kind of hit the reset button on everything.  All pretty simple things to do.

Ah coolant flush was not on the list.  it looked good did not smell acidic but its on the list now.  Thank Ye sir..
[/quote]

I think you have the motorcraft specialty green in there.  That's what my 2010 mks has, so i'd assume yours is the same for that year.  Do not mistake that with regular old green coolant that you get at the gas station because it's different.  You'll need to get this stuff at the dealership and it only comes in full concentrate and it's not cheap.  I think I paid around $30 for each gallon.  You'll need to dilute it yourself with distilled water.

[TopherSho]

You don't know how the car was maintained prior to you, so i'd just kind of hit the reset button on everything.  All pretty simple things to do.

Ah coolant flush was not on the list.  it looked good did not smell acidic but its on the list now.  Thank Ye sir..

I think you have the motorcraft specialty green in there.  That's what my 2010 mks has, so i'd assume yours is the same for that year.  Do not mistake that with regular old green coolant that you get at the gas station because it's different.  You'll need to get this stuff at the dealership and it only comes in full concentrate and it's not cheap.  I think I paid around $30 for each gallon.  You'll need to dilute it yourself with distilled water.
[/quote]

Ah, thank you.. I remember that now. Dealer will do it.  I'm hands off in my old age. 

[salsathe4th]

You don't know how the car was maintained prior to you, so i'd just kind of hit the reset button on everything.  All pretty simple things to do.

I think you have the motorcraft specialty green in there.  That's what my 2010 mks has, so i'd assume yours is the same for that year.  Do not mistake that with regular old green coolant that you get at the gas station because it's different.  You'll need to get this stuff at the dealership and it only comes in full concentrate and it's not cheap.  I think I paid around $30 for each gallon.  You'll need to dilute it yourself with distilled water.

Why can't you use the generic green coolant?

[SHOdded]

"Generic green" coolant?  You mean Universal Extended Life type coolants?

[FoMoCoSHO]

You don't know how the car was maintained prior to you, so i'd just kind of hit the reset button on everything.  All pretty simple things to do.

Ah coolant flush was not on the list.  it looked good did not smell acidic but its on the list now.  Thank Ye sir..

I think you have the motorcraft specialty green in there.  That's what my 2010 mks has, so i'd assume yours is the same for that year.  Do not mistake that with regular old green coolant that you get at the gas station because it's different.  You'll need to get this stuff at the dealership and it only comes in full concentrate and it's not cheap.  I think I paid around $30 for each gallon.  You'll need to dilute it yourself with distilled water.

Ah, thank you.. I remember that now. Dealer will do it.  I'm hands off in my old age. 
[/quote]
Sadly, not all dealers have gotten the memo about using distilled H20 so I would verify that they understand that concept.

[pmezo33]

Why can't you use the generic green coolant?

I'm not sure if you can or can't, but one is a p-oat specific formula and the other is a one size fits all type product.  You're mixing two different formulas of coolant.  That's not really something I'd risk to save a few dollars.

If you wanted to use a generic p-oat, the only one i'd consider is zerex asian vehicle coolant.  That's a generic formula, but at least it's to ford's specialty green spec.

This is what someone from another forum wrote about the subject.  His words, not mine.

"Mazda automotive coolants are green but they have almost NOTHING in common with conventional North American green coolant. Prior to the 2005 model year, Mazdas were equipped with a first generation P-OAT (phosphated organic acid technology) coolant developed and manufactured by CCI, the leading Japanese coolant company. P-OAT coolants rely on a combination of phosphates and organic acids to prevent corrosion; they contain no silicates or borates. In the 2005 model year, Mazda started using a second generation P-OAT coolant which has a lower concentration of phosphates and an improved organic acid additive package. The other major Japanese auto manufacturers, namely Toyota, Honda, and Nissan all use essentially the same coolant technology.

The only aftermarket P-OAT coolants are Japanese OEM coolants from Mazda, Toyota, Honda, and Nissan, Zerex Asian Vehicle coolant, and Motorcraft Specialty Green Engine Coolant (which reportedly is identical to the second generation Mazda FL22 OEM P-OAT coolant). For the record, Ford started using Japanese P-OAT coolant technology in many of its 2009 models (those sharing engine technology with Mazda) instead of G-05. Ford evidently found the performance of Japanese P-OAT coolants was superior to G-05 in Mazda engineered engines.

Using conventional North American green coolant in a Mazda is a bad idea. Even German (BASF) coolant technology as embodied in G-05, which contains silicates and no phosphates, is a much better choice than conventional North American green for vehicles with aluminum blocks and aluminum radiators. But a genuine P-OAT coolant, particularly a second generation P-OAT coolant like Mazda FL22 or Motorcraft Specialty Green, is the best choice."

[salsathe4th]

"Generic green" coolant?  You mean Universal Extended Life type coolants?

Yeah the "fits all makes and models" green coolant at any auto parts store since that usually all they sell.

[salsathe4th]

I plan on changing the fluid out this weekend, is the generic green for "all makes and models" ok to use?

[SHOdded]

If it is a complete replacement, yeah it should be fine.  Prestone, Zerex, Peak all have suitable products.

[dappie99]

Just curious since your 2010 is pretty low in the miles department, are the chrome areas around your taillights peeling?