Firstly, this is a very simple job. Definitely don't feel intimidated by it. If I had to rate it on a difficulty index, I'd place it at a 3 or 4.
I'll start off by saying there's plenty of info to reference WHICH plugs you might select to run in your engine. I won't touch on that here. Additionally, there's a ton of info out there on HOW to gap your plugs, for the appropriate application. Chances are, you'll be running an iridium plug. So, I'll just offer a couple of tips - use a feeler gauge, or other less evasive means to gauge, and be very careful not to damage the electrode, as it is very delicate.
Gather a few tools. Here is what I used:
-Basic mechanics tools set should do it, namely, a 3/8" and a 1/4" drive ratchet, various sized extensions for both, a plug socket, a deep or shallow 10mm and a deep or shallow 8mm socket.
-Pair of needle nosed pliers (likely necessary, but optional)
-Torque wrench (preferred, but optional)
-Dielectric grease (optional)
-Anti-sieze (optional)
To begin, situate the car, pop the hood, and remove the engine cover. Do so by pulling straight up. Comes off in a snap.
Next, you'll see the uncovered engine. There is a foam cap nestled over the fuel pump, below the intake manifold and above the front bank valve cover. You can remove it by pulling it straight upward. It is not fastened in any way. Only wedged.
I started off with the hardest cylinders, which are those against the firewall.
There's is little workspace to reach them, especially with the tower brace which runs along below the cowl. Getting these out of the way first will make the three on the front bank that much more of a breeze.
To begin, you'll have to displace the EVAP/purge apparatus, which is plumbed into the valve cover. This is on the passenger side cylinder (forgive me, as I am not sure how the cylinders are numbered). It is fastened to the valve. cover with three 8mm bolts. They are circled in red. The front two come easy. For the rear, it is buried under the wire harness. You will have to push the harness aside, in order to get to this one. It may be a little stubborn, as the harness is anchored on this valve cover vent apparatus.
Once the bolts are out, you can dislodge the apparatus by again, pulling it upward. It is plumbed into the cover with two short pipes which are gromitted into the valve cover. The pipes pop right out.
Once it is dislodged from the VC, rotate the apparatus in any direction, which will enable you to reach the coil pack.
Here is what it looks like bolts removed, rotated, and with a socket and wrench on the 8mm coil pack bolt.
Once you've removed the coil pack bolt, you can unplug the ignition wire. It is a simple connector. Pull the red keeper tab downward, press the retainer tab in, and pull it out of the coil pack connector.
Once this is done, the coil pack/boot assembly is ready to remove. Just pull it out.
Now, you're ready to begin removing the spark plug for this cylinder. Here is how I did it - with limited work space, as opposed to trying to shimmy the extension and socket together into the head, I simply dropped the spark plug socket down into the head first, then came down into the head with the 3/8" extention, and plugged it into the socket inside the tube. From here, once you're grabbing the hex on the plug with the socket, attach the wrench, and remove the plug.
Your new pre-gapped plugs should be ready to go. It is up to your disgression to use dielectric grease or anti-sieze. Install the new plug. Because of space limitations, again, I dropped the plug/socket down into the head, then followed up with the extension. If you want to do it right, use a torque wrench, and tighten to spec. You don't HAVE to have a torque wrench. If you do it by hand, do not He-man the plug into the head. It doesn't require much torque.
**NOTE
If you're like me, the plug socket will NOT leg go of the plug. There is a little rubber grommet in the plug which holds the plug firmly. If you're using grease, this probably won't be a problem for you. And if you're good, you can get it out with just using the extension. However, I use a pair of needle noise pliers to persuade them out (grab and pull) . That's why the pliers are listed as optional to the tools list.
Moving along, once the new plug is in, the EVAP apparatus just drops right back into the grommets. Press down firmly, to ensure the seal is restored. Replace the three bolts, and fasten securely. Move along to the the next cylinder.
This one is easy, and other than limited space, doesn't have any obstacles. Just do with this one as you did with the previous. Remove and replace.
The next cylinder in the rear bank is also easy. However, you have an obstacle again. This time, it is the intake piping which snakes over the engine and drops in front of the firewall. You don't need to remove it, similarly to the EVAP device, just need to displace it a little.
Sorry for the poor image. Looking at it, I didn't get one of the nuts you'll need to remove all of the way in-frame. There is one nut, which I believe is the only 10mm, which anchors the pipe to the VC. Remove it.
Secondly, you'll need to loosen the worm clamp which clamps the rigid pipe in the photo, to the rubber portion below.
Loosen it enough to completely dislodge and pull out the rigid pipe. It just pulls right out.
Now that that is done, it should give you enough leverage to shimmy and hold the pipe in whichever direction needed to get to the coil pack and bolt. Like the two cylinders before this one, remove bolt, pull the coil, replace the plug.
Here it is, with the coil removed.
And again...
At this point, once the new plug is in, and the coil pack is reattached, you can go ahead and put the intake piping back together, tighten the worm clamp firmly, and re-anchor it to the VC with the 10mm nut.
The hard part is done. In fact, I think if you've got the rear bank knocked out, you'll already know how to take care of the front bank from here. There are no real obstacles for the front cylinders. The ONLY thing you'll have to work around is a few wire bundles, which have plenty of leverage to be nudged and held out of the way, so you can work.
Here is the front bank, with the bolts you'll need to remove.
Once the fronts are replaced, you're finished. Just make a once over, to make certain your tools are picked up. Make sure all of your ignition wires are terminated back onto the coil packs, and with the red retainers clasped in, that the intake is good, your EVAP device is good, and everything is fastened and torqued securely. Replace the foam cap onto the pump. There is designation on the foam cap, which shows you how it should be oriented (up arrow). Press it down and wedge it in. Replace your engine cover by snapping it back on to the ball fasteners. And that's it. If you were successful, she will fire right up and run like a champ. Enjoy the fruit of your labor!
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