Install Help

[panther427]

What would i need to do for a Catch can ONLY install.. im not planning on purchasing the CCS..

[dalum]

I don't think I'd install the system at all in our cars without the clean side separator and moving the intake line for this.  You still have a vacuum source on the valve cover - intake side on the factory plumbing by the front turbo.

That first guys Flex(?) wasn't catching anything at all so the clean side intake hose was moved to the lowest vacuum area of the intake (right behind the filter).  I believe the factory system would perform the same way.

[Tuner Boost]

Correct again. Your hired.

[panther427]

I quess my real question is what is what do i do different between the installs. Is everything the same... just i dont have to worry about the CSS lines?

[painterpatt]

It was pulling oil thru clean side

[dalum]

Everything would be the same but you would still be getting oil out of the clean side intake tube.  The factory clean side tube also would develop more vacuum then the Rx system can over come so it wouldn't do squat.  Either do the clean side as well with the updated install or don't waste your money on the catch can at all cause it won't do much.

[painterpatt]

Doesn't the clean side have a one way valve in it? I'm assuming that when normal driving its going thru catch can from rear valve cover.  Under boost that closes and pressure in motor exhausts thru clean side. But with to much vacum on clean side it stays open all the time bypassing can..?.?

[JimiJak]

Doesn't the clean side have a one way valve in it? I'm assuming that when normal driving its going thru catch can from rear valve cover.  Under boost that closes and pressure in motor exhausts thru clean side. But with to much vacum on clean side it stays open all the time bypassing can..?.?

Why not install a check valve in the clean side line to prevent ALL backflow into the CAC?
Good question.  When the brief transition from non-boost to boost occurs there is a short period that the flow will reverse (only a few seconds) so we need to leave a unrestricted path for pressure to relive.

[painterpatt]

Oops. missed that

[panther427]

Ok I am not running the CSS......................................................................... ok eveyone got that


Ok what i want to know is can i tie one of the check valves into the factory line that runs from the front valve cover to the intake with a T?


i would rater not drill my intake piping.. 

If that is a no i need to move the factory css port to the air box and use its port for the catch can?

[JimiJak]

Ok I am not running the CSS......................................................................... ok eveyone got that


Ok what i want to know is can i tie one of the check valves into the factory line that runs from the front valve cover to the intake with a T?


i would rater not drill my intake piping.. 

If that is a no i need to move the factory css port to the air box and use its port for the catch can?

Copy-Roger...no CSS...got it.

hmmm...
The reason you still drill the rear intake pipe, even though you've utilized the front vac. barb is to get the combined vac effects from both turbos on the pre-turbo side...so just attaching to the front side might not be enough vac for the can.
Although...now you've got me thinking; are you VTA?
If so, I wonder if you could use a series of hose reducers to utilize the existing male fitting on both front and rear intake pipes that the eBOVs dump into. They would have good suction, and be actually lower and closer to the turbos than the location you would be drilling. The hardest part would just be going from 1" all the way down to 3/8" hose.

THOUGHTS??

As for re-routing your front valve cover vac barb to the airbox. I don't see why not. Without having the added coalescing material of the CSS, I would think you would want to make sure your hose is running as up-hill as possible from the valve cover to the airbox...but seems like worst case scenario you would end up with an oily air filter, and you would know you have to figure something else out.

[panther427]

Excellent idea on using the ports from the VTA.. think would have to do 2 reducers. 1" to 1/2" then 1/2" to 3/8". Would work fine..   

I was just trying to make the install as clean as possible and have the PCV/Catch can hoses as short as i could manage.

Im gonna try a new mounting location i thought might work from eye balling it.. If it wont fit ill be doing the fender mount.


LOL the more think over this the more i have confussed myself....

[panther427]

i just dont understand the vacuum issue under boost and getting oil sucked out of the catch can and back into the air intake system.

It seems like you would want a lower vacuum level then.. So farther from the turbos.. not closer.

[JimiJak]

My understanding is:
You need the high boost levels to overcome the PCV valve that closes under boost...so this way (with exception of the split second transition period) the system remains flowing in the correct direction.

As for the bernoulli and venturi effects acting on the oil inside of the can and sucking it out; this is a problem for many of the other brands that don't utilize a baffled design...this would be why we spent the extra money on the Rx...so regardless of vacuum, the oil stays in the can.


I have checked my barbs several times since install and during re-route...and the two return lines have had ZERO oil residue around the fittings. Compared to before when they were practically dripping.

[panther427]

So i think i figured out why we can not T into the valve cover line.... Under extended boost you would be creating a loop of air and that would be bad. I think it would lead to over pressure of the crankcase.