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160 why this thermostat now

Started by explorergotoluvit, March 08, 2014, 01:54:13 PM

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BiGMaC

I nkow the weather's bad and real life closes in... but I'll keep watching  :lurk:  ... very interested!!

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

JMR76

I tried the 160 and I'm going back to the 170.  Granted I only tried for 1 day, but I put 75 miles on, highway and stop and go.  Cycled off on about 10 times with 3 total cool downs.

160 ran 2-3 degrees warmer at cruising and highway speeds.  Usually ran 186-189 cruising up to 190 sometimes.  Stop and go it ran 182-187.  Downhill off throttle or after just getting on throttle it would dip to 172, but go back up into mid 180's quick.

Put 170 back and it ran like it did before right away.  Likes 182-185, sometimes 188, but rarely and only on light constant throttle up hill.  It regularly dips down to 177-178.

Fans had no impact.  They were always on at 178+ (I have to get that changed).

Granted, 160 would cool down further AFTER a hard run, but for me 170 is more consistent and run a few degrees cooler at normal driving.


2013 SHO - PP/ GH Intercooler / 170*TS / Cold .026 plugs / MSD Coils / Corsa cat-back / PPE Catted Downpipes / Xtreme-DI XDI-EO HPFP / E 30+ / Gear Head Tuned.

68_GT

Quote from: JMR76 on March 27, 2014, 08:22:12 PM
I tried the 160 and I'm going back to the 170.  Granted I only tried for 1 day, but I put 75 miles on, highway and stop and go.  Cycled off on about 10 times with 3 total cool downs.

160 ran 2-3 degrees warmer at cruising and highway speeds.  Usually ran 186-189 cruising up to 190 sometimes.  Stop and go it ran 182-187.  Downhill off throttle or after just getting on throttle it would dip to 172, but go back up into mid 180's quick.

Put 170 back and it ran like it did before right away.  Likes 182-185, sometimes 188, but rarely and only on light constant throttle up hill.  It regularly dips down to 177-178.

Fans had no impact.  They were always on at 178+ (I have to get that changed).

Granted, 160 would cool down further AFTER a hard run, but for me 170 is more consistent and run a few degrees cooler at normal driving.

that result doesn't surprise me. Looking forward to more testing. The Reiche racing t-stats are hand made that's why they cost more. I've had them before and nothing ever performed as well as his.
2013 PP SHO LMS 93V10 tune, 170* T stat, 3bar, K&N drop in, plugs re-gapped, 4in exhaust tips.
UPDATE - 130K miles =blown engine. Unleashed tune and EBPP upgrade turbo billet wheels / Turbo Smart WGA's on a bran new long block. Let's get this SHO on the road !

2013 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB daily driver ;) - LMS 93 tune and CPE intercooler

BiGMaC

Quote from: JMR76 on March 27, 2014, 08:22:12 PM
I tried the 160 and I'm going back to the 170.  Granted I only tried for 1 day, but I put 75 miles on, highway and stop and go.  Cycled off on about 10 times with 3 total cool downs.

160 ran 2-3 degrees warmer at cruising and highway speeds.  Usually ran 186-189 cruising up to 190 sometimes.  Stop and go it ran 182-187.  Downhill off throttle or after just getting on throttle it would dip to 172, but go back up into mid 180's quick.

Put 170 back and it ran like it did before right away.  Likes 182-185, sometimes 188, but rarely and only on light constant throttle up hill.  It regularly dips down to 177-178.

Fans had no impact.  They were always on at 178+ (I have to get that changed).

Granted, 160 would cool down further AFTER a hard run, but for me 170 is more consistent and run a few degrees cooler at normal driving.

Thanks for the report JMR... interesting.  It makes me think ... Wonder if there is a significant flow restriction in the 160 due to not fully opening (spring/man defect, etc.. Maybe all of them, Maybe just the one you used.

IMHO you should report this... call them... to LMS and ask for a replacement, because this one clearly doesn't do what it should if the engine is cooler with the 170.

Keep the reports going .... more info is better.

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

JMR76

I'm just keeping the 170.  I did report it and ask for fan adjustments.  It's a little different made than stock and the 170, maybe the hot side and cold side issue. 

My guess would be it's working as designed (maybe not for our vehicle though) but if it cold side instead of hot side, it takes longer to open cause that cold side coolant stays pretty cold for a while keeping the housing cool and once it opens, it equalizes and the TS will remain open longer.  Therefor the 160 will cool down more after opening but once closed again the cycle repeats.


2013 SHO - PP/ GH Intercooler / 170*TS / Cold .026 plugs / MSD Coils / Corsa cat-back / PPE Catted Downpipes / Xtreme-DI XDI-EO HPFP / E 30+ / Gear Head Tuned.

Livernois Motorsports

We are moving to a 160* for various reasons. #1 is as the factory is a 180, the step to 170 was only a minor change. As these cars are making more and more power it benefits them even more to have a cooler starting point. #2. We worked with a Tier 1 OEM supplier to develop this new thermostat to ensure the highest quality and performance available. We also wanted a thermostat that is a true direct replacement, many thermostats we sold in the past were not a true direct fit. While they worked in certain applications they sometimes needed unique gaskets, spacers, or other adapters to work properly. We want our customers to have a trouble free experience, and part of this is ensuring the items we sell can use OEM designed and approved gaskets. Imagine being on a road trip and having a "unique" gasket fail. Where do you get one from? With our new thermostats those application issues are gone, so now you could get a production gasket and be back on the road quickly.

I realize that is a rare possibility, but it's just an insight into why we make changes on product offerings. We are always looking for ways to improve our offerings, and better service our customer's needs. Pushing the envelope means developing new and better products. This is what we do every day, and what makes us unique. We are always finding new ways to make our offerings better than before, and this is just one of those items that we developed for that.

EcoPowerParts

Others may feel that the 170 t-stat is just fine for the ecoboost and works well, maybe better than the 160. Heck many people say not to change it at all from stock.
It's a great debate but Reische makes a great t-stat and it works very well. Livernois has decided to change theirs but I still agree with Reische and will stick with them.
Mike B | info@ecopowerparts.com
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DJE624

I have been running my 160 for a couple weeks now.  Weather has been in the teens and up close to 50.  I have not even had a hint of a problem.  I know I am running cooler but you wouldn't even notice it daily driving.  I'm sure I'll be very happy having it at the track next week.  In the meantime, I'll be making a six hour each way trip this coming Wednesday and Thursday. I'll see how the temps hold doing 70's for several hours straight.

Livernois Motorsports

Quote from: JMR76 on March 27, 2014, 08:22:12 PM
I tried the 160 and I'm going back to the 170.  Granted I only tried for 1 day, but I put 75 miles on, highway and stop and go.  Cycled off on about 10 times with 3 total cool downs.

160 ran 2-3 degrees warmer at cruising and highway speeds.  Usually ran 186-189 cruising up to 190 sometimes.  Stop and go it ran 182-187.  Downhill off throttle or after just getting on throttle it would dip to 172, but go back up into mid 180's quick.

Put 170 back and it ran like it did before right away.  Likes 182-185, sometimes 188, but rarely and only on light constant throttle up hill.  It regularly dips down to 177-178.

Fans had no impact.  They were always on at 178+ (I have to get that changed).

Granted, 160 would cool down further AFTER a hard run, but for me 170 is more consistent and run a few degrees cooler at normal driving.




Sorry for missing some of the details in this post, as you can see last nights post was rather late. It sounds like the cooling system wasn't burped properly. Large heat fluctuations like this are a tell tale sign of an air pocket being trapped in the system.

I am not certain where anyone would get the idea that our thermostats are made incorrectly. They are made by the same OEM supplier that makes Ford thermostats, so they are made based on the OE design. Implying ours are made incorrectly also suggests the OEM stat is made incorrectly. Unfortunately, these statements that were made about the design of our thermostat were not based on facts, just like when people posted that the cars would run too cold and go into open loop, or never leave warm up mode. Neither of these accusations are true, and it's unfortunate that misinformation is being put out there about the products we have designed to help better the community, and the performance of these great vehicles.

SHOdded

One way or the other, I would like to see technical data quantifying the benefits of non-OEM-temp TStats, especially as they relate to the EB engines in this case.  More power?  More MPG?  Better engine life?  Effect on emissions?  What and how much?  Is the benefit mostly in the initial warmup period?
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

DJE624

My hope is that it will allow a shorter cool down period between runs and reduce engine compartment heat. 

BiGMaC

Quote from: SHOdded on March 28, 2014, 10:06:59 AM
One way or the other, I would like to see technical data quantifying the benefits of non-OEM-temp TStats, especially as they relate to the EB engines in this case.  More power?  More MPG?  Better engine life?  Effect on emissions?  What and how much?  Is the benefit mostly in the initial warmup period?

Agree!  Let's see objective data please.... It doesn't appear to hurt... but does it help?

•2013 Taurus SHO nonPP - All Ford factory options, 3BAR MAP, LMS v8 tune (mods for 3BAR, DPs, and T-stat), Paint & plastic correction, CQuart finest all exterior surfaces, limo black window tint,VLED Triton switchbacks, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, full interior and exterior LED conversion, Lamin-X charcoal blackout tail lights and reflectors, PPE catted and coated downpipes, EBPP coated hotpipes with BoVs VTA, MDesign CAI
•2013 F250 CC Lariat 6.7EB Diesel -stock

68_GT

#42
well cooler engine temps do yield more power, and I would beleive allow the tune to make more power by allowing more advanced timing & boost. How much is the question I suppose. But for $60 or whatever I think any benefit would be worth it especially is hotter temp areas like me in South TX. To me all the little changes add up, but typically aren't worth the cost / power benefits to me.
2013 PP SHO LMS 93V10 tune, 170* T stat, 3bar, K&N drop in, plugs re-gapped, 4in exhaust tips.
UPDATE - 130K miles =blown engine. Unleashed tune and EBPP upgrade turbo billet wheels / Turbo Smart WGA's on a bran new long block. Let's get this SHO on the road !

2013 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB daily driver ;) - LMS 93 tune and CPE intercooler

SHOdded

One can easily see the benefits for extreme climates (lower temp TStat for hot areas, higher temp TStat for cold areas), at least for initial warmup.

How would TStat mod benefits compare with active grille shutters (latest stuff coming out on Fords, probably other makes/models also) and lightweight but heavy duty radiators?
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

68_GT

all I know is my 68 Mustang definately runs stronger while running cooler with a lower temp tstat and bigger radiator :)
2013 PP SHO LMS 93V10 tune, 170* T stat, 3bar, K&N drop in, plugs re-gapped, 4in exhaust tips.
UPDATE - 130K miles =blown engine. Unleashed tune and EBPP upgrade turbo billet wheels / Turbo Smart WGA's on a bran new long block. Let's get this SHO on the road !

2013 Fusion Titanium 2.0 EB daily driver ;) - LMS 93 tune and CPE intercooler