after installing an unleashed 3bar tune, plugs, 3bar map sensor, and 170 thermostat, my 2012 MKS is overheating at idle after driving short distances. I have attempted to bleed the system of air by turning on the heat and letting the car run until the thermostat opens for about a half hour with the resevoir cap off.  The temp never gets out side of the safe range on the gauge. I have squeezed the upper house and refilled the res to the appropriate level. Still, I overheat. Is there a bleeder valve somewhere? Have I bled the system correctly? Any suggestions?

What plugs did you install and what gap?  Need to run the 0.028 or 0.030, whatever is recommended by the tuner, though stock gap shouldn't be lean enough to cause overheating.

Stupid question:  are you sure you installed the TStat pointing the right way?  In either case, may be worth taking it out and re-seating/re-installing.  An air pocket can be very stubborn and may be stuck to the TStat itself.  Ultimately, COULD be a faulty TStat as well!

Jack up the passenger side of the car to create a high point when bleeding the cooling system.  An alternative to a jack might be a curb.  A Lisle SpillFree Funnel just might be in the cards for you if nothing else works.

When are the fans turning on?  Should be turning on around 190F, no higher than 200F.

Air pockets are problems with these motors. Just about guarantee that's your problem.

SHOdded posted this awhile back. Might help.

When you do that (cooled off), have the radiator cap off and the right side higher than the left (curb/jack/etc).  Make the overflow bottle the highest point in the system to allow trapped air to escape.  I don't think it's stuck in your heater core (should hear gurgling from behind the dash).

From the free Chilton's Manual:

2.Fill the degas bottle to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the COLD FILL line.
3.Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard.
4.Turn the climate control system off.
5.Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
6.Turn the engine off for and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.
7.   

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.[/color]

Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
8.Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
9.Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
10.Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
11.Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
12.Repeat steps 9 through 11 a total of 5 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.
13.

How much coolant did you loose,because average when swapping out stats is about a quart,did you use the new gasket that came with the Reishe 170-stat? also check to see if your reservoir is full and everytime you drive it just wait about 30min and open the cap slowly to release the air out,try to do that everytime you drive it.  Z

Quote from: glock-coma on August 04, 2015, 07:13:22 AM
SHOdded posted this awhile back. Might help.

When you do that (cooled off), have the radiator cap off and the right side higher than the left (curb/jack/etc).  Make the overflow bottle the highest point in the system to allow trapped air to escape.  I don't think it's stuck in your heater core (should hear gurgling from behind the dash).

From the free Chilton's Manual:

2.Fill the degas bottle to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the COLD FILL line.
3.Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard.
4.Turn the climate control system off.
5.Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
6.Turn the engine off for and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.
7.   

WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.[/color]

Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
8.Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
9.Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
10.Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
11.Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
12.Repeat steps 9 through 11 a total of 5 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.
13.

Sure does come in handy GLOCK.  Z

And if you still have issues, go get the coolant system flushed...

Rich

Quote from: SHOnUup on August 04, 2015, 08:11:47 AM
And if you still have issues, go get the coolant system flushed...

Rich

I pulled that quote from your how to that SHOdded posted in.
Did you get your coolant system flushed? Or did it correct your overheating problem just by reinstalling the original thermostat

Quote from: glock-coma on August 04, 2015, 08:43:36 AM

Quote from: SHOnUup on August 04, 2015, 08:11:47 AM
And if you still have issues, go get the coolant system flushed...

Rich

I pulled that quote from your how to that SHOdded posted in.
Did you get your coolant system flushed? Or did it correct your overheating problem just by reinstalling the original thermostat

I'm pretty sure I got the air bubble out when I used the Lisle funnel setup. With the cooler tstat I thought I'd get alot cooler temps in normal driving conditions and it only being a few degrees cooler after the bubble was out, I took it in for a flush...come to find out that's normal, and the only noticeable difference is on the big end (+100 mph, a good 10-15* cooler).

With noticeable fluid on my PTU and RD I took it to Ford to see if they'd say anything about those 2 and get the coolant system flushed so I didn't have to worry/think/obsess over.

Rich

I jacked the right side of the car up today and bled it. It is rock steady on temp.  Thanks for all of your suggestions. I checked the T-stat again and it was in correctly. I replaced the plugs with stock plugs gapped at .030.  I have no other issues since the tune and can now do some logging so Torrie can dial it in. Looking forward to installing dp's next, though they are a bit pricey. Looks like they are worth it. Thanks again for the help!

Onward & upward!!!