Dang. Impossible?
I've done some pretty invasive repair and upgrade work on various automobiles, just in my garage on jack stands.
What makes it nearly impossible? Is it just a matter of clearance?

Ridiculous it should be so difficult, just to perform a fluid swap. >: (


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Quote from: IHeartGroceries on July 29, 2014, 08:47:36 AM
Dang. Impossible?
I've done some pretty invasive repair and upgrade work on various automobiles, just in my garage on jack stands.
What makes it nearly impossible? Is it just a matter of clearance?

Ridiculous it should be so difficult, just to perform a fluid swap. >: (


Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

I really should have taken pictures lol. The 2013 + with PP have a drain plug OEM. The fill hole is the temp sensor (old fill on non PP) . You have to remove the DP first. No problem. Once the DP is removed you then need to remove the heat shield to access the temp sensor. The heat shield is attached with a single torx bolt. It's located on the top of the PTU. Also in the way is the oil return from the turbo. I could see the bolt, however getting to it was an issue. None of the tools I had was able to get to it without removing the oil return line. If that even helped, the big issue was that you need to be double jointed to do this while lying on your back. No matter how I tried to access that freaking bolt I just couldn't get to it. I am thinking of adding a Fumoto valve to the drain and accessing the fluid that way. You could just measure the exact amount of fluid that comes out and pump the new fluid back in. (Crash's idea).

I was just going reiterate it once again. Forget the sensor where you fill at. I am sure the capacity is published some where. And simply pump back thru the drain.

I also was thwarted in my PTU change the other day on my '11 non-PP. Does anyone recall what size hex plug is in the dang thing?

I had everything all set up and couldn't get the dang plug out.

Its not a hex plug but square...just use the end of the wobble socket or a 3/8 ratchet end to pull it out. You have to get creative with extensions and swivels but its doable. See beginning of this thread for some ideas...

^^^x2

Quote from: ecoboostsho on August 19, 2014, 10:12:39 PM
Its not a hex plug but square...just use the end of the wobble socket or a 3/8 ratchet end to pull it out. You have to get creative with extensions and swivels but its doable. See beginning of this thread for some ideas...

Mine sure feels (and looks) like a hex. I tried a shorty 3/8 inch socket extension and it won't work. In the original writeup, it says it is a hex (and mine is) but doesn't mention a size.

Well that's weird - Ford must have had two different plugs they used.  So basically it's an allen type socket extension you need then? 

Quote from: ecoboostsho on August 20, 2014, 02:58:12 PM
Well that's weird - Ford must have had two different plugs they used.  So basically it's an allen type socket extension you need then?

Affirmative. It appears from some of the writeups and photos that some have the typical square plug (which I expected) and others have a hex (allen) type plug.

I was all set for the square plug (like the kind you normally see on a diff). When I have time to get it sorted I'll post a pic. Probably won't be until Labor Day weekend though.

Just tried to do mine (2011 SHO, non pp), here are a few things I thought of:
1. If you can remove the o2 sensor, you'd have a straight shot at the plug (I am going to try this next time)
2. You don't need to remove the wheel housing
3. Trying to get the plug put back in with the o2 sensor in the way is a pita
4. Trying to go from underneath was a no go, not enough room to wiggle my hand up in there, let alone the plug.
5. Keep your garage cracked and air flowing out, the oil likes to linger for quite a while...

I was only able to extract about 100 or so ml from mine, but when I filled it, it seemed to take an extra 100 ml, so like a few others that I have read I must have been low.

An idea that I am also going to try next time is to take some copper tubing that is bigger than the tubing I will use to suction up the oil, bend it straight and at the end bend it at somewhere between a 45 and 75 degree angle. Then from there, shove the tubing down the copper to where not only would it make it easier to get it in the plug hole, but it would help flex the tubing down into the transfer case. The other thing I wanted to try with this setup is to use some plastic hose/tubing that you would use to hook up a fridge or a filtered water tap. Not only is it small, if not smaller than the regular tubing people seem to be using, but it is also much more stiff to were it might be able to shoved into the transfer case more than a normal rubber/vinyl hose. The other nice thing about having the copper, is that when you are done, you can just pull the tubing into the copper and spare yourself from dripping oil on things like the heat shield like I happened to do. I'll make sure to post up some pictures when I do, maybe towards Christmas time when I have time off again and the fluid has been in there for a couple of months.
-Nick

Quote from: SHO-Pa on August 21, 2014, 02:06:28 PM

Quote from: ecoboostsho on August 20, 2014, 02:58:12 PM
Well that's weird - Ford must have had two different plugs they used.  So basically it's an allen type socket extension you need then?

Affirmative. It appears from some of the writeups and photos that some have the typical square plug (which I expected) and others have a hex (allen) type plug.

I was all set for the square plug (like the kind you normally see on a diff). When I have time to get it sorted I'll post a pic. Probably won't be until Labor Day weekend though.

Well, I figured out its a 14 mm hex plug in my '11. Not much room to work in there. I can't believe Ford doesn't have a change interval on the PTU. I can feel more driveline drag between 22k miles (when I purchased) and now (32k). Based on that a 25-30k interval seems like the way it should be.

Glad you got it and hopefully this will help others who have that style of plug.

My PTU just started puking oil out what appears to be the vent toward the top...just not sure why yet as it already had the TSB for that issue performed.

TSB 10-14-2 the one you are referring to as done?  Possible overfill at last change?  In the TSB, they do refer to filling the PTU with fluid (step in WSM Section 308-07.

Attached the 2013 version (probably not useful for 2010-12) as a reference, JIC.

Quote from: SHOdded on September 08, 2014, 12:37:59 PM
TSB 10-14-2 the one you are referring to as done?  Possible overfill at last change?  In the TSB, they do refer to filling the PTU with fluid (step in WSM Section 308-07.

Attached the 2013 version (probably not useful for 2010-12) as a reference, JIC.

Yes that one...although it says it is for a 2010 only?  I've got a 2011.  I definitely don't think I have that vent installed by the brake booster.  Does anyone else have this done?  I am going to have to go back and look at my service records but I swear they had to tackle something like this at one point.  I will be quite upset if it says I have the TSB done but don't have the vent hose attached...especially now that I am out of warranty and it's 4.5 hours of labor.

Also this just started happening...I did the refill over a month ago by now I believe so I can't imagine it is just now blowing fluid out the top from an overfill??  I did have just the front on jackstands when I filled it up but if anything I was worried about underfilling it not over filling it based on the angle.