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Wheel spacers...

Started by FracaSHO, October 06, 2013, 10:58:28 PM

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FracaSHO

So I have decided, at least for now, to keep my stock wheels. They do look good anyway. Plus I can plasti dip to improve the looks and make them more unique.  But I want my stock wheels to stick out a little further like if I got wider wheels.  So what is everyone's thoughts on spacers to get me to stick out like a 1/4 to 1/2 inch. How much,  pros, cons, etc. Thanks.


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Brad
2010 Tuxedo Black SHO w/ PP

DJE624

I thought about 1/4's. I think a half might be a bit much.

EcoBrick Bob

Not another WHEEL SPACER THREAD....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!????? OMG   Do I have to post the pix of the car losing both rear wheels on the strip again??

Wheel spacers work fine if you have 2" lugs and enough threads to be SAFE...
2010 Red Candy/White EB Flex.. World's first 12 second Brick.. 12.904 @ 106.85 MPH - October 2011
2009 Spt. Red G8 GT - modded. best time 12.074 & 114.02 MPH
2008 White G8 GT - mods... 8.32 1/8 mi.

Naples, FL & Clear Lake, IA
Bob has decided not to post here any more, please do not PM him he will not receive it.

QwikSHO

I'm always a fan of buying wheels that fit.

EcoBrick Bob

Tire Rack says 3mm spacers are max on our SHO's and FLEX ( and Lincoln clones...)
2010 Red Candy/White EB Flex.. World's first 12 second Brick.. 12.904 @ 106.85 MPH - October 2011
2009 Spt. Red G8 GT - modded. best time 12.074 & 114.02 MPH
2008 White G8 GT - mods... 8.32 1/8 mi.

Naples, FL & Clear Lake, IA
Bob has decided not to post here any more, please do not PM him he will not receive it.

ONLYA6

#5
Wheel spacers work and are safe if you run a hub centric spacer. No extra stress on the studs since the weight is being transferred to the hubs as it should be. The best are those that are large thick enough where you bolt the spacer on your factory studs and the spacer has its own set of studs. Any reputable company will make them like this, ex. H&R. With our cars you can't run one thick enough to do this so it would be safe to run extended studs to maintain the same amount of thread contact with the lugs.

It's ALWAYS best though to achieve by using a different offset wheel and no spacers all together.


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Steven

2013 Taurus SHO - Best ET 12.7/ MPH 110
1999 Mustang V6 - Turbo - 474 whp 431 wtq

SHODYOU

I've been running 5/16 front and 7/16 rear spacers for almost 10k miles now, on stock studs. Plenty of engagement, from my understanding of the rule, I still meet nhra requirements.

I still have 7 threads engaged on the rear
2011 SHO - Tux Blk/blk int, 402B, acc, nav, multicontour, 20s. LMS 4X MyCal, 3bar MAP, K&N Typhoon, 170* t-stat, SP534's @ 30, Stainless Works catless DPs, Corsa catback, H&R sports, 5/16 front-7/16 rear spacer, 255/35 Hankook V12s, Lamin-X/PlastiDip

2004 Mustang GT - Comp Orange, Boss block/3.80 stroker 327", Foxlake TFS', Hellion turbo, blah blah

ONLYA6

Thread engagement is important but more so is having a lip left of the hub for the wheel to sit on. That is where your load is being transferred.


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Steven

2013 Taurus SHO - Best ET 12.7/ MPH 110
1999 Mustang V6 - Turbo - 474 whp 431 wtq

SHODYOU

#8
I disagree... all the load is handled through the friction from clamping force. For load to be transferred into the spacer/hub lip or side loading the studs slippage must occur. In which case clamling force has been lost.
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/store/index.php?main_page=tech_wheels_spacers

Second to last bullet point*
2011 SHO - Tux Blk/blk int, 402B, acc, nav, multicontour, 20s. LMS 4X MyCal, 3bar MAP, K&N Typhoon, 170* t-stat, SP534's @ 30, Stainless Works catless DPs, Corsa catback, H&R sports, 5/16 front-7/16 rear spacer, 255/35 Hankook V12s, Lamin-X/PlastiDip

2004 Mustang GT - Comp Orange, Boss block/3.80 stroker 327", Foxlake TFS', Hellion turbo, blah blah

thatsmrgimp2u

A lot of tuner wheels don't even have a center bore equivalent to the car they are made for. In these cases they have a different lug bore and you would use tuner lugs to center the wheel as each lug is tightened. Factory wheels aren't designed like this though, they do rely on the center bore to make everything align properly. I wouldn't run spacers on factory wheels unless they were hub centric.

2011 ISM SHO; Airaid Intake


2011 ISM SHO;  SCT X3 (Unleashed), Airaid Intake, PPE Downpipes, Magnaflow Mufflers and X-pipe with Vibrant resonators, 170 Thermostat, H&R Springs, RX CSS
12.91@107

SHODYOU

Yes, to align the wheels correctly... nothing to do with load transfer.
2011 SHO - Tux Blk/blk int, 402B, acc, nav, multicontour, 20s. LMS 4X MyCal, 3bar MAP, K&N Typhoon, 170* t-stat, SP534's @ 30, Stainless Works catless DPs, Corsa catback, H&R sports, 5/16 front-7/16 rear spacer, 255/35 Hankook V12s, Lamin-X/PlastiDip

2004 Mustang GT - Comp Orange, Boss block/3.80 stroker 327", Foxlake TFS', Hellion turbo, blah blah

thatsmrgimp2u

Quote from: SHODYOU on October 07, 2013, 09:00:43 PM
Yes, to align the wheels correctly... nothing to do with load transfer.

Yeah I agree with you. I had spacers on my mazdaspeed with the stockers. The install process required you to retorque the lugs at 25 50 and 100 miles. Seems like every time I parked the lugs were loose. Got some new wheels with different lugs and it was a one and done deal.

2011 ISM SHO; Airaid Intake


2011 ISM SHO;  SCT X3 (Unleashed), Airaid Intake, PPE Downpipes, Magnaflow Mufflers and X-pipe with Vibrant resonators, 170 Thermostat, H&R Springs, RX CSS
12.91@107

EcoBrick Bob

Not a fan of loose wheels!  Have you ever been hit by one????
2010 Red Candy/White EB Flex.. World's first 12 second Brick.. 12.904 @ 106.85 MPH - October 2011
2009 Spt. Red G8 GT - modded. best time 12.074 & 114.02 MPH
2008 White G8 GT - mods... 8.32 1/8 mi.

Naples, FL & Clear Lake, IA
Bob has decided not to post here any more, please do not PM him he will not receive it.