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How to Fix? At WOT from standstill lose traction around 30mph-40mph.

Started by Dutchsho11, February 19, 2017, 03:27:07 PM

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AJP turbo

Quote from: Dutchsho11 on February 21, 2017, 07:31:08 PM
And I better run faster then 13 seconds or I'm going to be pissed with all the money I've spent on this car

How much did you spend? And on what?....have you figured out how to datalog yet?....I think a 2 bar tune on a stock sho should yield high 12's so you should be good if you have a tune
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

Dutchsho11

I'm running 1 degree cooler NGK spark-plugs gaped .28 as recommend with my tune, 3bar map sensor, low temp 170 degree thermostat, BG fluid in everything and engine oil is Full Synthetic Amsoil, MDesign cold air intake, PPE Cat-less downpipes rapped, PPE Hot pipes with Tial BOV, Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, LMS 93 4x-race tune.

SHOdded

LME recommends 0.028 gap with their race tune?  Good to know.  I always thought the 0.030 was a gold standard with them.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Dutchsho11


derfdog15

Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 01:26:41 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......

I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Ha! Well then that's the root of it..... lack of patience.

You mean to tell me you'd endure driving 1hr in each direction, to/from the track, but you can't stomach 5min worth of deflating/inflating.

C'mon man, surely you can't be serious. Lol.

Z's spot on, 60's are crucial. Take advantage of every lil bit you can. Especially when acquiring those sought after slips my friend!

Mine was a DD for 6yrs and I've driven longer than you to get back/forth to tracks. Do it derf!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I understand that '60 foot is crucial, .1 in the '60 is ~.3 in the quarter. But if I am airing down for the track is my time really representative of street performance? I think not. I am never going to run 22 psi on the streets while I DD, so while it would cut a better best time, its not truly representative. Keeping it in its street form gives me representative times as it is basically just a controlled street environment (especially since tracks are generally unprepped for test/tune nights)

Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2017, 02:42:23 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 01:24:32 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2017, 12:59:59 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......

I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Derfdog since you have a PP would take advantage of that air compressor/gauge inside the trunk and put it good use my friend especially with those 60 ' times being so crucial. Z :)

The PP air compressor comes with the same warning as a "donut" tire. Do not exceed 55mph etc. IDK how I feel about running tires on the highway using that.
I was referring to the air compressor and not the tire sealant. Z

I understand that Z, but the warning is there right on the compressor, it also takes AGES to air a tire up with that compressor. That coupled with my above statement, and I think for now I'd rather just run it in street trim. It is the same as pulling seats (passenger/rear) or other interior parts for a track day, better times will result, but you don't run just a driver seat on the street for most people. If I was pushing for fasted SHO 1/4 mile time then weight reduction like seat removal and airing down would be worth it, but pushing for street performance metric results it just isn't worth it to me.

And for both of you guys, I am just purely not comfortable driving the tires at 23 PSI or so more than a few miles if absolutely necessary, and the track I generally go to I am able to get 10-20 passes in, so that would be a lot of strain on tires IMO. One day, ill get a set of drag rims/tires for the car, and at that point (I know it will take a bit longer than airing down/up) lug those (pun intended) to the track, swap at the track, run the car, swap back, go home. OR I'll finally buy a truck again, and just trailer the SHO to track days (Since I'll probably have to do that for my mustang when its done).

Back on topic a bit though, OP, the A/S tires are wonderful for street driving but the BFG really isn't a ultra high performance tire. I love it as a DD tire, but for the track a nice Summer tire is your best bet. You will never get the best performance possible on an A/S tire in a drag race setting. If you decide to track it keep in mind prepped vs. unprepped tracks. If the track is prepped I would bet you cut better times (since you will likely be able to hook easily), unprepped tracks, expect to spin.

The bandaids here are springs/coilover and/or upgraded tires/airing tires down and learning how the car launches/behaves so you can adjust your tip in strategy for maximum hook or adjust your launch so that you get the most out of it (ie. my car spins HARD if you launch at 2500rpm, and cuts much worst times than launching at 1800-2000rpm). Also keep in mind, especially in a drag race scenario, you are maximizing torque/hp output from the start so once you hook you will stay hooked (ie, not spin mid way through the track), in a street scenario if you are just casually driving and then mat the pedal you go from say 25% utilization to 100% real quick which is why you spin at tip in, your making less than 50% torque before you floor it and go to max torque almost instantly.

2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

SHOdded

Even with the Viair 70P I have, I think it would take 2 min per tire to get it from 22 to 35 psi.

You could get the 88P or even the 300P, just need the engine running ...
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

ZSHO

I think a good old fashioned foot pump does a relatively good job in under five min per tire and no need to worry about your battery..LMAO. Z  :rofl2:


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

AJP turbo

I thought every track has an air hose....if not , i got a husky mini compressor with gauge for 25$
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

StealBlueSho


Dutchsho11

Torrie tune recommends .028 gap that is what I had first then I went with Livernois tune and they said the gap should be fine and so far I have had no issue.