I'm getting some general maintenance done on my 2010 SHO this week and I'm in need of a spark plug change. I plan on getting a tune at some point, but not just yet. I've ordered SP534 plugs, but my question is about gapping them. Should I leave them at the OEM .035 or should I go ahead and gap them at .032 in preparation for a future tune?

They will probably be gapped at 0.030 right out of the box.  For the 2010, 0.033-0.037 is the stock recommendation.  If you are planning to tune soon, I would leave them alone. But if you choose to gap, make sure to do so carefully and dont touch the center electrode.

FWIW, Rockauto states that they come gapped at .035. I bought a feeler gauge/gapper as well to double check them myself and/or to gap them appropriately if needed. So you think it would be ok to go ahead and gap them down to .032 or .030?

Check them very carefully.  Mine came gapped at .030 out of the box.  If you are going to get a tune, that is the gap you want.  As Shodded already advised, do not touch the center electrode.

I would wait till you get them and go from there.  Mine were all set between .030 and .032 out of the box.  Because of my tune, I set them to about .029.

If you are stock and they come gapped as mine did, I'd just leave them alone and install.

I guess after changing my plugs a total of (five)times and being a bit ocd,lol especially with having a Tune and always found the plugs to be gapped at roughly 0.30-0.31 when purchased from the Ford dealer or Rock auto for comparison reasons and usually No adjustment is needed just verify and check that all the plugs are gapped the same and would recommend using a 3/8 ratchet and swivel which comes in handy especially when changing Bank one plugs by the firewall and gain access to that pita #3 plug which only call for 11lbs of torque and no need to over tighten them because of the fragile aluminium heads.....use a tab of dielectric grease inside the boots and would leave the easiest plugs for last which is Bank 2 Front.  Z   

I agree with everything above!

To add to that...
- For that tough plug (#3), I went the route of removing things in the way.  Your choice...struggle for less time, or spend more time, but be less hassled.
- I put a dab of anti-seize on the plug threads.  It is not called for by Ford (or Honda for our other car), but I prefer to use it since you are threading a steel plug into an aluminum head.  It's a controversial subject.  I've just used the stuff for many years and will continue to do so.
- I like to use compressed air to blow out the hole before removing the plug.  Even with how well our coils seal, my car had some dirt in the wells.  Better to get that out so you don't have an issue threading the new plugs.

Quote from: sholxgt on August 22, 2016, 11:41:29 AM
I agree with everything above!

To add to that...
- For that tough plug (#3), I went the route of removing things in the way.  Your choice...struggle for less time, or spend more time, but be less hassled.
- I put a dab of anti-seize on the plug threads.  It is not called for by Ford (or Honda for our other car), but I prefer to use it since you are threading a steel plug into an aluminum head.  It's a controversial subject.  I've just used the stuff for many years and will continue to do so.
- I like to use compressed air to blow out the hole before removing the plug.  Even with how well our coils seal, my car had some dirt in the wells.  Better to get that out so you don't have an issue threading the new plugs.

TRUE,removing the intake charge pipe out of the way will make life easier or getting a nice set of [Hotpipes].  Z

Thanks for all the helpful info and replies y'all! I'm not an experienced wrencher just yet, so I'm still gonna have a shop do them for me while they change the oil as well. Anything else I need to do while it's there? I'm at roughly 83,000mi., bought it in February and haven't done any maintenance just yet. I asked if they could do a PTU change and they were confused, so I might have to go to the dealer for that.

Might have to take it another shop (and probably non-dealer) to get the PTU/RDU serviced.  Usually a shop that provides BG driveline services (bgfindashop.com) can do it, or any reputable trans shop in the area.

Do the trans and brake fluids while the SHO's in for the plugs & engine oil.  Assess the coolant condition, if it looks scaly/slimy in the degas bottle, it might need a change.

I had 2 weeks in between tuning and spark plug changing. I had them gaped at .030 while on normal tune and only noticed a drop in MPG and slight on performance.

EDIT: here is the link to the how-to on this forum.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.0.html

A HOW-TO as helpful as ever:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.0.html

Quote from: SHOdded on August 22, 2016, 12:59:55 PM
A HOW-TO as helpful as ever:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,1980.0.html

Good timing!   

I just got sp534's from rockauto.  All of mine were gapped at around .034 or .035.  I just install them as is, but my mks is stock.

Quote from: pmezo33 on August 22, 2016, 07:15:47 PM
I just got sp534's from rockauto.  All of mine were gapped at around .034 or .035.  I just install them as is, but my mks is stock.

It sounds like the gaps and prices went up on these plugs compared to a couple of months ago which were 3.95 ea. IDK.  Z