I've been trying to sort this out in my head.
Does it make sense to you (IF the new turbos impeller spins more free by comparison) this could be the reason I never have boost building right away.
It's random when it comes on the first time, but fine after that.
Maybe it takes allot of flow to get it turning the first time.
After that it it remains spinning and boot comes on every time after the first "spool up" on the front turbo?

I don't know if this would throw any codes that I would see when scanning, I have no codes at present.

I hope to have more info tomorrow.

Thanks, Joe.

I didn't tell you, but I have 97,600 miles on the car.

I went through the intake piping on top of the engine after work today as well as the pcv system. The TB looked dryer then before.
I ran across a thread zsho had on checking the canister purge solenoid.
I'll try to check that on Sunday.

The PCV valve looks good as did all the lines, very little if any shine on the inside. I can't blow through the solenoid with it off the car. I thought I read it should have vacuum ,if it's mounted in the car and the engine is running and the electrical plug is disconnected. I don't remember.

Most of the cold side piping looked good, only a little shiny. The only spot I saw any oil was the connection just forward (front turbo side)of the BOV.

I removed the pipe connection off the front turbo. The impeller looks great. There was a bit of oil on the machined inlet. I assume the BOV venting back into the filtered air is where the oil came from.

I turned the impeller with my fingers. It didn't turn hard, but I assumed it would turn easier, like a fidget spinner.
I grabbed a hold of the shaft and I can feel some up/down/side to side play. It's no allot, but I would not think there should be any play. I check it against the new rear turbo on sunday. I'll also see if I can vacuum anything out of the CAC.

This is the kind of thing I keep finding from the dealer I went to.
The hose connection from the  BOV. So disappointing.

I'll also get the engine mount (bracket) ordered.

Thanks, let me know what you think.

I did order a pcv valve from tasca.
I'll look at your links,
Thanks.
I have been searching for the mount all day. It may be just a bracket.
Thanks SHOdded.

I got my tune yesterday.
I wonder if I can use the log file by itself and maybe it'll show something.
It seems like the first time I floor it the boost is random as to when it will build, but after that it's normal.

I plan to get the car up on stands tomorrow or Sunday and go through the piping to clean it.

Thanks, for the links and help.

the pcv valve comes separately and as an assembly. replace the assembly.
https://dz310nzuyimx0.cloudfront.net/strapr1/25b3d4efa6a6e2899ede3b619b88722d/5e5b4d5b892901154a72fa93ec1e3089.png
#9 i believe
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/oem-parts/ford-vapor-canister-purge-valve-assembly-aa5z6a785f

you may even want to do the whole tsb
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?msg=79067

is that cracked part from an engine mount bracket? replace mount/bracket assembly if so.
https://s3.amazonaws.com/rparts-sites/images/996a7fa078cc36c46d02f9af3bef918b/d9897303afc5249c7b75a1c273d8fedb.jpg
https://parts.levittownfordparts.com/v-2014-ford-taurus--sho--3-5l-v6-gas/engine--engine-and-trans-mounting

I took a look at the TB after work today, only a bit of oil.

running inconsistent after work and some surging at part and full throttle.

I did notice this.
I don't know how long this has been broken.

I believe the idle fuel pressure is around 250-264 psi, it ramps up very quickly when going wot.

I believe intake manifold pressure is always positive.
I did break a couple of intake connections and everything is only shiny, but I didn't look at any low points. Also looking into the intake manifold was only shiny.

I pushed the bov down and it moves very smooth. I didn't pull up on it.

I did remove the hard line that goes from the rear valve cover to the intake,  just behind the throttle body at the bend towards the plenum. I assume the dark orange piece that fits into the rear valve cover is the pcv valve. I didn't pull/ twist it  with to much force. It moves a little, but not much. Do you know if there is anything more than a baffle on the inside of the valve cover?
Does the pcv valve just pull straight out?

I couldn't believe how much oil was pooled on the throttle body.
I don't hammer on the gas a lot.
The rear turbo was replaced a couple of months ago. The bearing/seal must have gone bad.
I saw oil all over the flex connection to the intake tubing and dripping off the oil return line. I wound up with a p0420 and had to pay to replace the rear cats. I couldn't buy the cats for less than they could replace them.

I'll try to get the car on jack stands and look around underneath the car after work.
It may not be until this weekend, but I'll try to clean out any intake piping. I will look for any pooling.

Thanks again SHOdded.

No hesitation this morning, seemed to run good.

what is the hpfp fuel pressure at idle? how does the lpfp pressure behave. if it is a fuel problem, could be the fuel pump control module under the rear seat.

i am not sure but intake pressure should always be positive. neg/pos you might be thinking of the pcv system and/or boost readings.

looks like the diaphragms are intact, wont see them until you put pressure on the valve to expand it.

that much oil in the throttle body is a concern. it could come from the turbo or the pcv system. since the pcv valve is a known weak point might want to change it. also check the intake tubing and turbo piping for pooling oil. pooling oil in turbo piping would indicate a new turbo is needed.

lets check out the easiest things first.

I took some pics of the BOV, CAC and the throttle body today.
I was surprised at how much oil was dripping down the TB.
I didn't see or extract much oil from the CAC. I'll try this sunday with a shop vac, the hand pump didn't do much.
I did push the dipstick down to the bottom, there was less than 3/16" on it.
Not sure how much was from the bottom and how much smeared when I put it in and pulled it out.
I did jack the drivers side of the car up more than 12".
I assume they must have changed the design of the BOV from your pic?
Neither of mine have the orange membrane/diaphragm.

I did see what looked like an orange o-ring in the CAC,  but that would've had to travel through the cooling fin. No idea.

That is the hose they didn't reconnect and I had no power.
It is on and I put a zip tie on it last night.
I'll check for codes, I should've done that yesterday.
I'll have to find my vacuum pump and make sure the daiphrams hold vacuum.

Thanks again, I appreciate the help.
I'll post back when I can check some of these things.

The Pic you posted didn't show up on my pc for some reason, but did on my phone. I'll check that.
I was thinking of the one on the turbo.

This morning I had no boost until 2nd gear the first time i floored it. After that no real issues.
I do see hpfp press is 2,400 ish psi max. Timing advance is around 18 degrees.
Trying to watch rpm and vac/boost guage. I get around 10 psi by 2,500_3,000 rpm.
I put the intake manifold press up as well. It always reads positive?

When I floored it (outside if the first time) boost held very steady at 10 psi.

Just trying to give all the (correct) info I can.

I'll check what I can after work today.

Thanks again.

theres a wastegate controller on top of the intake with 3 unclamped small diameter hoses attached to it. a hose could be working its way loose or already be loose. though it usually ends up setting a code. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vrhBu5XtafU

now a tear in the diaphragm of the blowoff valve is not immediately visible, so unless you are looking for it, you may miss it.

yes, check the c-clips on the wastegate actuators on the turbos, tho you'd think they would cause problems at all speeds.