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Wheel bearings

Started by Heelfan1, January 04, 2017, 09:07:11 PM

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Heelfan1

Anyone had to have their wheels bearings replaced? I have had a roaring noise coming from the front end and took it to the dealer and they replicated the noise I was referring to. They said it was the drive shafts and replaced both under warranty. Problem is that didn't fix the issue. Having to take it back for more diagignoses to see but it sound just like wheel bearings to me and told them that before they changed the axles? I guess we'll see next week what they come up with next.
2013 SHO non PP LMS Tuned, 160ts, 3 Bar, CAI, DP's
2013 EX Sport, LMS Tuned, 160ts,3 Bar, CAI
2018 Raptor H.O. Ecoboost LMS Tuned
2011 F150 Harley Edition 6.2 AWD(sold)
Whipple SC, JDM Tuned 600+ hp

SHOme

Quote from: Heelfan1 on January 04, 2017, 09:07:11 PM
Anyone had to have their wheels bearings replaced? I have had a roaring noise coming from the front end and took it to the dealer and they replicated the noise I was referring to. They said it was the drive shafts and replaced both under warranty. Problem is that didn't fix the issue. Having to take it back for more diagignoses to see but it sound just like wheel bearings to me and told them that before they changed the axles? I guess we'll see next week what they come up with next.
Yeah I had 4 done on my 2010 before they finally replaced the axle.

SHOme

Sent from my Speak and Spell

2014 SHO, PP 3 bar, 160 T Stat, Livernois v10 Tune, UPR catch can. MDesign CAI

ZSHO

#2
I had my hubs(wheel bearings)thrust washers replaced under warranty a few times to no avail.
It seems that a permanent,viable fix in conjunction with the hubs and washers would be to have the outer tie rods replaced. Z

TSB-14-0186 BELOW.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8JUL90DXgdiQlZKd29scTd0eUU/view


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

KonaTheWhale

Just replaced a rear hub assy last weekend. Not hard to break down to the hub assy but if there is a lot of corrosion good luck getting it off. Trying to do it in my garage on the floor did not work out even with heat, hub puller, all kinds of penetrating fluids and big hammers. Ended up having to get it on a lift with an acetylene torch and air hammer to get it off. The knuckle is aluminum and hub assy is steel so when the aluminum corrodes it pretty much fuses itself to the hub assy. 
2011 Ford Taurus SHO non PP Kona blue, Livernois 93 octane 3 bar tune, PPE catless downpipes, muffler delete, 160* stat, K&N drop in filter, VTA mod, rear end lowered, 15% tint, EBC brake upgrade

pmezo33

I had my front right wheel bearing done at about 70k miles under warranty.  The rest have been fine.

It's pretty easy to diagnose which one is making the noise.  Get on the highway and listen to the noise as you're turning at high speeds around corners.  If you're turning left and you hear the noise, it's your right bearing.  If you're turning right and you hear the noise, it's your left wheel bearing.  Front or back should be pretty obvious based on noise.

If you want to do it yourself, it's a pretty straight forward job.  You don't need to press the bearing onto the hub - it comes as an assembly.  Just pull the hub and install a new one.

MiWiAu

Quote from: pmezo33 on January 05, 2017, 10:27:16 AM
I had my front right wheel bearing done at about 70k miles under warranty.  The rest have been fine.

It's pretty easy to diagnose which one is making the noise.  Get on the highway and listen to the noise as you're turning at high speeds around corners.  If you're turning left and you hear the noise, it's your right bearing.  If you're turning right and you hear the noise, it's your left wheel bearing.  Front or back should be pretty obvious based on noise.

If you want to do it yourself, it's a pretty straight forward job.  You don't need to press the bearing onto the hub - it comes as an assembly.  Just pull the hub and install a new one.

Same basic idea, but I get on a back road and do some light slalom maneuvers to identify which side is making noise. Nothing aggressive is required, just enough to load the bearings. If you really notice it howl at a particular speed, do your slaloms there. I had a bad wheel bearing in my old F150, and it made a lot of noise in the 25-30MPH range, but would quiet down quite a bit outside of that. Good luck!

As pmezo indicated, you should be able to turn the noise off/on depending on which direction your are steering.
2013 XSport

Heelfan1

Quote from: MiWiAu on January 05, 2017, 12:11:46 PM
Quote from: pmezo33 on January 05, 2017, 10:27:16 AM
I had my front right wheel bearing done at about 70k miles under warranty.  The rest have been fine.

It's pretty easy to diagnose which one is making the noise.  Get on the highway and listen to the noise as you're turning at high speeds around corners.  If you're turning left and you hear the noise, it's your right bearing.  If you're turning right and you hear the noise, it's your left wheel bearing.  Front or back should be pretty obvious based on noise.

If you want to do it yourself, it's a pretty straight forward job.  You don't need to press the bearing onto the hub - it comes as an assembly.  Just pull the hub and install a new one.

Same basic idea, but I get on a back road and do some light slalom maneuvers to identify which side is making noise. Nothing aggressive is required, just enough to load the bearings. If you really notice it howl at a particular speed, do your slaloms there. I had a bad wheel bearing in my old F150, and it made a lot of noise in the 25-30MPH range, but would quiet down quite a bit outside of that. Good luck!

As pmezo indicated, you should be able to turn the noise off/on depending on which direction your are steering.

Yeah I even told the service tech that if you turned left at those speeds the noise would be constant and not variable. But if you turned right they would go away. Even with that they diagnosed it as a axle? Anyway the folks at my dealer are very friendly,and really attempt to make you happy so I'll be patient and give them time to fix it. I figure worst case I get new axles out of the deal needed or not.
2013 SHO non PP LMS Tuned, 160ts, 3 Bar, CAI, DP's
2013 EX Sport, LMS Tuned, 160ts,3 Bar, CAI
2018 Raptor H.O. Ecoboost LMS Tuned
2011 F150 Harley Edition 6.2 AWD(sold)
Whipple SC, JDM Tuned 600+ hp

pmezo33

#7
Quote from: Heelfan1 on January 05, 2017, 09:30:02 PM
Yeah I even told the service tech that if you turned left at those speeds the noise would be constant and not variable. But if you turned right they would go away. Even with that they diagnosed it as a axle? Anyway the folks at my dealer are very friendly,and really attempt to make you happy so I'll be patient and give them time to fix it. I figure worst case I get new axles out of the deal needed or not.

These dealers are all fools.  I was recently diagnosed with a $1900 ptu job by a lincoln/ford dealer when all i needed was $30 in seals.  I had to correct them before they did any work.

Get the right wheel bearing done and you'll most likely be good to go.  This is all warranty work, right?  I'd be extremely pissed off if they charged you for something so simple that they messed up.  What you told them is pretty much textbook symptoms of a bad wheel bearing.

ZSHO

#8
The techs are only programmed to follow the FSM and TSB,SSM!!. Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

Heelfan1

Quote from: pmezo33 on January 05, 2017, 10:32:57 PM
Quote from: Heelfan1 on January 05, 2017, 09:30:02 PM
Yeah I even told the service tech that if you turned left at those speeds the noise would be constant and not variable. But if you turned right they would go away. Even with that they diagnosed it as a axle? Anyway the folks at my dealer are very friendly,and really attempt to make you happy so I'll be patient and give them time to fix it. I figure worst case I get new axles out of the deal needed or not.

These dealers are all fools.  I was recently diagnosed with a $1900 ptu job by a lincoln/ford dealer when all i needed was $30 in seals.  I had to correct them before they did any work.


Get the right wheel bearing done and you'll most likely be good to go.  This is all warranty work, right?  I'd be extremely pissed off if they charged you for something so simple that they messed up.  What you told them is pretty much textbook symptoms of a bad wheel bearing.

Yeah luckily the car is still under warranty, if it weren't Id be doing this myself and would have replaced the drivers front wheel bearing like I think it is.
2013 SHO non PP LMS Tuned, 160ts, 3 Bar, CAI, DP's
2013 EX Sport, LMS Tuned, 160ts,3 Bar, CAI
2018 Raptor H.O. Ecoboost LMS Tuned
2011 F150 Harley Edition 6.2 AWD(sold)
Whipple SC, JDM Tuned 600+ hp

SHOdded

I would replace both hubs if one goes, ...  and I think it is the pass front that is bad, based on description?  Whichever way you turn that is quiet has the bad bearing.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

MiWiAu

Quote from: SHOdded on January 06, 2017, 02:00:30 PM
I would replace both hubs if one goes, ...  and I think it is the pass front that is bad, based on description?  Whichever way you turn that is quiet has the bad bearing.

Dealer may not replace both, if one fixes it. When I had a bad injector, they said warranty only covered the failed injector, and I didn't want to shell out my own $$ for 5 more.

Maybe some dealers are more flexible. Certainly couldn't hurt to make the request.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
2013 XSport

Heelfan1

Well round three. Changed both front wheel bearings and still have the hum/harmonic sound. Having to take back for more trouble shooting Monday. Techs think it's resonating from another source but haven't been able to pinpoint yet.
I had a mechanic friend that said he had a truck give him a fit trying to locate a similar problem.  He said it sounded just like a drivers front wheel bearing and ended up being passenger side rear. He's even said he's had transmissions send harmonics out that give wheel bearing diagnosis sounds?? 
Anyway just ready to get this fixed so I can get the LMS tune back in it....
2013 SHO non PP LMS Tuned, 160ts, 3 Bar, CAI, DP's
2013 EX Sport, LMS Tuned, 160ts,3 Bar, CAI
2018 Raptor H.O. Ecoboost LMS Tuned
2011 F150 Harley Edition 6.2 AWD(sold)
Whipple SC, JDM Tuned 600+ hp

pmezo33

Not the axle or the wheel bearing... hmm.

PTU possibly?  How many miles?  Is it leaking at all from the vent?  Ever change the fluids?

SHOdded

Definitely check the PTU closely.  But this is where a set of ChassisEARS or similar tech would come in handy.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!