AMSOIL

[FoMoCoSHO]

Economy grade?

[AJP turbo]

You can run 40 weight oil if you are getting the oil hot enough so that it thins enough to lower oil pressure to what is required for the engine.....not many people understand that....

Oil pressure changes with viscosity....viscosity changes with temperature...you want the lowest viscosity that gives the proper oil pressure

Oil pressure is what really determines oil viscosity selection..if 2 identical cars ran 30 weight and 1 car was road racing , that car would have lower oil pressure...an increase in viscosity would increase oil pressure due to resistance of flow of the higher viscosity oil

[ZSHO]

Amsoil is certainly a great oil indeed and that cannot be disputed,but using a different grade than specified on the owners manuel or oil cap can ultimately have a negative effect on the cam phasers and lifters especially if a thicker oil is being used. Z

[AJP turbo]

Amsoil is certainly a great oil indeed and that cannot be disputed,but using a different grade than specified on the owners manuel or oil cap can ultimately have a negative effect on the cam phasers and lifters especially if a thicker oil is being used. Z

Not if you are running the car so hard that the oil thins causing the oil pressure to drop.....the mfg is anticipating normal operation in which case they can properly recommend the viscosity....

You have to first understand what happens to viscosity when temperatures change.....the mfg recommended viscosity may become a problem if you are operating the car in extreme conditions

[ZSHO]

Amsoil is certainly a great oil indeed and that cannot be disputed,but using a different grade than specified on the owners manuel or oil cap can ultimately have a negative effect on the cam phasers and lifters especially if a thicker oil is being used. Z

Not if you are running the car so hard that the oil thins causing the oil pressure to drop.....the mfg is anticipating normal operation in which case they can properly recommend the viscosity....

You have to first understand what happens to viscosity when temperatures change.....the mfg recommended viscosity may become a problem if you are operating the car in extreme conditions

Wouldnt dirty oil being changed in longer intervals play a role.

[AJP turbo]

Yeah id say that would be bad as well

[SHOdded]

As long as you keep the car temps reasonable, I don't see the need for running thicker oil.  These are not 100% aircooled machines, so you have SOME control over those conditions.  If you live in an area where the startup temp is going to be 120F, or -50F, modify the requirements for the LOW end of the spec to suit (for example, 10W30 or 0W30 instead of OEM 5W30).  That's been the usual tactic.  NOW, if you are adjusting for engine wear, you have a reason to go up the grade on the HIGH side of the spec (for example, 5W40 or 5W20 instead of OEM 5W30).

All this keeping in mind the VI, the Noack, etc.

[myfender]

OK  so am a relatively new ecoboost owner and realize the importance of running the right oil in turbo car. I have always ran mobile 1 extended performance in my previous vehicles so I started doing some research. I was thinking about Royal purple but ruled it out because the moly they use and I really narrowed it down to amsoil and mobile one. My biggest issue with Amsoil is the MLM or every dealer out there joe smo making youtube videos and non scientific tests to show how good Amsoil is, and that really turns me off to the product. Can anyone here (WHO IS NOT AN AMSOIL DEALER) give me some assurance this is a good oil, better than a mulitibillion dollar companies (mobile 1) product???

Thanks

[AJP turbo]

Read about group iii and group iv oils...amsoil is a group iv...true synthetic not hydro cracked petroleum that is only called "synthetic" due to a loop hole that the federal government allows.....i feel like ive been lied to...i always though castrol sytec was good true synthetic ....lies...good for off the shelf compared to wolfs head and coastal lol...i think all mobil 1 is hydrocracked group iii petroleum ...amsoil is legit and affordable when used the proper way 

Most people change their amsoil too often including myself..i have yet to see a used oil analysis of amsoil signature series with less than 10k show exhausted product even with turbos and direct injection and ethanol blow by...most people say well it cant hurt and it makes them feel better to change it more often than required...group iv base oils are robust and nearly indestructible 

[myfender]

I have had several GM vehicles (suburbans yukons mostly) that have the oil life system, which if you believe the GM hype works. When I ran a standard mobile 1 oil I would get the oil light at around 6k miles, when I ran a jiffy lube special I would see the light at 4500 when I ran the mobile 1 extended life (15k) I would see the light at 11-12k. not sure if that's scientific but seems to me the extended life Mobile 1 consistently did better than others, I never had a chance to run amsoil in one. Some forums say Mobil1 or at lest certain weights are a group4 pao oil.

[BlueSHO]

Hummmn always heard good things about Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 5W-30 full synthetic but you guys got me wondering.

Sent from my DROID RAZR HD using Tapatalk

[AJP turbo]

The gm car computer has no way to test the oil...algorithm based on operating conditions ...your results are coincidence as far as i can see...i dont think standard mobil 1 is group 4...i think the price reflects that...but about once a year im wrong on something

[SHOdded]

One comparison of motor oils (seems like old copy tho):
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Castrol Syntec (German made, "European Spec") is also a true full synthetic.

Anyway, UOA is the best way to decide if the oil is working for you.

[AJP turbo]

One comparison of motor oils (seems like old copy tho):
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf

Castrol Syntec (German made, "European Spec") is also a true full synthetic.

Anyway, UOA is the best way to decide if the oil is working for you.

Well we aint in germany or europe....this is merca! Land of the consumer and home of facebookers

[SHO_Enuff]

Okay guys let me start off by saying that in comparison to the other oil I previously ran it got dark much quicker and it burned half a quart quicker.
Sure it can be cleaning out the previous oil which I hope BUT I have ran Motul for a few intervals and it has been the best oil I've used and is in no way a fake synthetic like ajpturbo suggested. It never burned.

Well I just ordered more amsoil so we'll see how the second run goes.

There really isnt any hard facts in your post....you saying motul is the best you have ever used really doesnt mean anything....hard to believe amsoil burned ....considering it has one of the lowest noack volatility ratings on the market....that is a fact you can research but not argue....im really not sure if motul is a true synthetic....do you know what group that oil is....how do you know?...have you seen it?

I prefer the third party testing and data that is readily available for amsoil products along with specifications....if you like choosing oil and basing performance on color....go ahead but i prefer numbers from testing

Quick question has amsoil been tested against Redline, Royal Purple, or Schaeffer's? If so how did they all do?