Amplifier Remote Wire + new Power Cable.

14SHOCAR · October 10, 2015, 05:41:32 PM

So I am embarking on another journey with my Taurus. I am replacing the rear deck subwoofers with a little JL action. My plan is to add a small amplifier tucked away on the rear deck to drive the new rear subs I'm putting in place of the 6x9s. With that being stated, I looked at the wiring diagram and I can't figure out the following:

#1 Where are people pulling the remote wire from? What pin on the processing module?

#2 are you recommending that I pull power from the front of the car? I The amplifier I'm using is the alpine KTP-445u which has a 16GA power cable cable to power it. Can I tap into the processing module for this and the ground as well?

I got two JL 6.5" Subwoofers that are 4 ohm with the 6x9 adapters. The factory system is 2 ohm, which is why I need to do a 4 ohm setup. I need to drive a little more power to these speakers, so the 45wx4 is a perfect amp to do so. Plus, I'm only using 2 channels which is driving the power upward for these rear deck speakers.....

Thoughts?

14SHOCAR · October 10, 2015, 05:44:20 PM

PS when bridged, the alpine amp does (Watts x Channels) 90 x 2 .

The JL 6W3v3-4 are power rated:

Continuous Power Handling (RMS) 150 W
Recommended RMS Amplifier Power 50 - 150 W
Nominal Impedance (Znom) 4 Ω

glock-coma · October 10, 2015, 08:24:18 PM

Not sure if your building a box around these subs or not. But they won't work very well in free air setup in the rear deck. These subs are going to need some kind of box.

glock-coma · October 10, 2015, 08:33:45 PM

Definitely run power power from the battery.
I've used these in the past in free air builds, they work very well.

http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w69-1042j-6x9-subwoofer--264-837

glock-coma · October 10, 2015, 09:16:27 PM

The general cutoff for acceptable qts for infinite baffle (IB) is >0.60. Your subs are 0.50. It's pretty close so it MIGHT be ok.
Also you really need to seal off the rear deck and back seat from the cabin compartment.
. If not not the sound waves will "bleed" through and cancel each other out.

BiGMaC · October 10, 2015, 10:26:35 PM

True.... Noise cancellation can be a problem. If I was attempting to put some low end in using the method described, since it is not destructive to the car, I'd do the install in the deck and put an RTA on it to see if there's frequency cancellation... Compare just installed to occluding the small openings to the back seat area with a blanket. However the factors would be the same as with the OEM speakers with just an install. It should act like a wired port.... Personally... I'd use a couple of good free air 8" - 10" subs with electrical excursion of at least an inch to try to reach down into the sub audible range and pass them at 40-60 hz.

14SHOCAR · October 11, 2015, 09:50:41 AM

Awesome Feedback guys! I still need to know where I can pull my remote wire from.... any thoughts on that one?

BiGMaC · October 11, 2015, 11:02:30 AM

Quote from: 14SHOCAR on October 11, 2015, 09:50:41 AM
Awesome Feedback guys! I still need to know where I can pull my remote wire from.... any thoughts on that one?

Not sure... But I'm pretty sure Dxlnt1 would know and has posted a wiring diagram. He has done an extensive center console and stereo upgrade.

glock-coma · October 11, 2015, 11:59:01 AM

Lots of wiring diagrams here compliments of kolk/ shodded
This is for a 2011 sho
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=1528.0
Taurus SHO Vehicle wiring chart - Kolk1

Sent from my ME173X using Tapatalk

FoMoCoSHO · October 11, 2015, 12:11:50 PM

Quote from: 14SHOCAR on October 11, 2015, 09:50:41 AM
Awesome Feedback guys! I still need to know where I can pull my remote wire from.... any thoughts on that one?

I have one of these...

http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B004CTBYGE

Tap the rears for signal and also gives you a remote power feed.

One of these days i will actually get around to installing my sub, lol...

FoMoCoSHO · October 11, 2015, 12:24:30 PM

"Do I need to find a remote turn on lead? No, the LC2i has GTO Signal Sensing, which will turn the unit on when it detects signal at the input from your factory amp/powered head unit."

http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/

BadHabit2Break · October 13, 2015, 12:43:09 PM

Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on October 11, 2015, 12:11:50 PM
Quote from: 14SHOCAR on October 11, 2015, 09:50:41 AM
Awesome Feedback guys! I still need to know where I can pull my remote wire from.... any thoughts on that one?
I have one of these...

http://www.amazon.com/AudioControl-2-Channel-Converter-Subwoofer-Control/dp/B004CTBYGE

Tap the rears for signal and also gives you a remote power feed.

One of these days i will actually get around to installing my sub, lol...

This is the route I would go with. Run the sub signal from the OEM processor to it and it gives you the remote turn on without having to find a remote turn on wire in the OEM setup. Setup the Acubass control and it should be good to go.

Three Lions · October 13, 2015, 01:48:11 PM

I also run the AudioControl LC2I, works like a champ. The Sony system really shines with a dedicated sub (or two).

14SHOCAR · October 13, 2015, 02:29:47 PM

Two more questions... where do you connect the power cable to on the battery? It seems the bolt closest to the window side won't budge. I may have to put some love on it.

Also where did you run the power cable? Is there a good spot in the fire wall on the driver side? I looked last night but it was pretty dark.

Thanks!

ZSHO · October 13, 2015, 04:15:30 PM

This should shed some light in finding the proper hole to stick it in,hopefully the hole is suitable for many applications. Z http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=5329.0