Horrible braking

[USMCSHO341]

So the problem I have noticed lately is that upon applying the brakes from speeds above 25 mph the car shakes and it feels as if there is something considerably wrong with the brakes. There is a shuttering noise when applying the brakes and obviously it is worse at slowing from higher speeds. I just passed inspection a few days ago so I figured they would find something. However, that was not the case. Any one have any pointers or advise ? Thanks.


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[AJP turbo]

Your rotors are warped....They wouldn't check that..They would only check that the pads are ok and if the tech was thorough they might check minimum thickness of rotor....I've never seen anyone check runout.

There is not enough money in inspection for a mechanic to check all that they are supposed to..People already don't like that 50-80 that most places charge.

[FoMoCoSHO]

What year? Pp or non pp?

When you have a minute, please add some basic info to you sig about your car so we don't have to bug you for it.

Thanks!

[USMCSHO341]

2010 I'm pretty sure it's non pp


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[FoMoCoSHO]

And yeah, what AJP said. When they're worn sometimes one hard stop is all it takes to go from fine to fail.

[SHOdded]

Most likely cause is what the guys are saying.  But sticking slide pins, dirty brake fluid, pistons not moving freely in bore can all cause these symptoms also.

[USMCSHO341]

Ok thanks guys. I'll have it checked.


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[nickstewartroc]

I will say I had the same issue, but it went away when I upgraded to the powerstops
-Nick

[66 Galaxie]

Traditionally people will scream warped rotors but it is typically either pad deposits on the rotors or if it goes on long enough you can get high spots on rotors when pad deposits create enough heat in an area to change the metal of the disc into a harder surface called cementite.

Getting back to your problem.
Does the steering wheel shake and or the whole car?
If steering wheel your front brakes are suspect.
If whole car and not steering wheel your rear brakes are suspect.

Assuming your inspection covered the condition of your brakes you should have plenty of life left in the pads and rotors.

If they removed your wheels they may have over torqued the lugs afterwards which can cause problems like this after you drive some.  Try re-torqueing and driving it a bit to see if it improves.

Have you stopped completely after getting your brakes really hot from aggressive use or coming down hills.  If so you may have left some pad material on the rotor and a half dozen or so aggressive stops with a cool off drive after may improve or solve it.
If this is the case you may actually see an imprint of the pad on a rotor or rotors.

You may have a dragging caliper which is causing an overheating problem which has led to pad deposits and possible cementite area on a rotor.  If so you will usually see evidence of one rotor running hotter be it visually with a blued look or streaks, or bye it's temperature when compared to the other rotors on the car.

[SHOnUup]

Same thing with my stock setup on a 2011 non PP SHO...tried just pads at first, still shook. Changed rotors and it was fixed.

From experienced track going guru's...they say buy the stock rotors and get "top shelf" pads. The good pads will help stop heat transfer.

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[ZSHO]

Did you check the brake fluid to make sure its full? check your brake booster and BTW you mentioned a while back they changed i believe a valve,do you know if it was the check valve.  Z

[USMCSHO341]

It was a purge valve


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[BiGMaC]

It was a purge valve


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Ta-Daaah!!!!! Good work finding it Bro'

[USMCSHO341]

It was a purge valve


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Ta-Daaah!!!!! Good work finding it Bro'

No ZSHO asked what valve was replaced and that was my reply. Lol I should've quoted him.


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[CroR1]

How would a purge valve cause the shaking in the wheels and lower quality braking? Am I missing something on these cars, Vacuum leak? Or Did the mechanics forget to do a procedure when they replaced the purge valve that caused all this?