RX crankcase evac system on the Ford Flex

bigmoneycloser · March 26, 2014, 07:35:16 PM

My install is next week...

JimiJak · April 12, 2014, 06:13:16 AM

Quote from: painterpatt on March 19, 2014, 12:03:53 PM
Popped of T. Body the other day when cleaning sensors and changing plugs. Happy to report no oil came out this time. Still a little shy of 500 miles to drain can tho. Will post vid.

Hey PainterPatt, any new updates, videos, etc?

SHOdded · April 12, 2014, 06:41:10 AM

x2 on updates, PainterPatt

Did you get yours done, BMC?

painterpatt · April 12, 2014, 03:09:28 PM

I actually just got back from RX, Tracy moved my cleanside tap to intake tube right net to air cleaner. I was getting oil in cleanside instead of can. He's going to post about it after he gets his arms out of a Corvette

BiGMaC · April 12, 2014, 03:35:26 PM

Quote from: painterpatt on April 12, 2014, 03:09:28 PM
I actually just got back from RX, Tracy moved my cleanside tap to intake tube right net to air cleaner. I was getting oil in cleanside instead of can. He's going to post about it after he gets his arms out of a Corvette

Pre and Post change pics please... TIA

Tuner Boost · April 12, 2014, 04:28:18 PM

Hi All, I forgot to take pics, but Pat can of the after. Yes, the drill/tap spot on the front charge pipe was upstream of the barb for the cleanside and was over powering the flow when cruising and in boost. So we moved the cleanside separator line and fitting to as close to the air filter as possible and cured it. This also allows no drilling for the front tube!!! Just use the existing OEM barb the cleanside tube did attache to. I also recommend cleaning the CAC (remove to do) first as he still has a good bit in his CAC.

Cheers!

SwampRat · April 12, 2014, 04:52:07 PM

Quote from: Tuner Boost on April 12, 2014, 04:28:18 PM
Hi All, I forgot to take pics, but Pat can of the after. Yes, the drill/tap spot on the front charge pipe was upstream of the barb for the cleanside and was over powering the flow when cruising and in boost. So we moved the cleanside separator line and fitting to as close to the air filter as possible and cured it. This also allows no drilling for the front tube!!! Just use the existing OEM barb the cleanside tube did attache to. I also recommend cleaning the CAC (remove to do) first as he still has a good bit in his CAC.

Cheers!

Is there ANY way to clean the CAC while it is still mounted ?
From what I undestand removal is a royal PITA .

JimiJak · April 12, 2014, 06:07:29 PM

Quote from: Tuner Boost on April 12, 2014, 04:28:18 PM
Hi All, I forgot to take pics, but Pat can of the after. Yes, the drill/tap spot on the front charge pipe was upstream of the barb for the cleanside and was over powering the flow when cruising and in boost. So we moved the cleanside separator line and fitting to as close to the air filter as possible and cured it. This also allows no drilling for the front tube!!! Just use the existing OEM barb the cleanside tube did attache to. I also recommend cleaning the CAC (remove to do) first as he still has a good bit in his CAC.

Cheers!

First off: I know Pat didn't have much oil in his can...from what I see in your post I'm guessing because of the constant hyper-vacuum to the clean side separator the coalescing material in the separator was working overtime and the evacuated mixture was being either returned to the oil or fed through the intake? Due to a lack of vacuum through the rear PCV, this was acting as the constant "clean-side"?

Second: So for those of us (me) that have already installed; is there something we should be doing?? Instructions please.

Third: If I'm reading your post correctly; you attached the front-side outlet, from the can to the oem vacuum barb that the clean side separator WAS attached to. Then, extended the clean side separator closer to the air filter to decrease vacuum. Correct?

Questions:
- Does the outlet hose from the can for the front side now only have one port instead of two? ...OR does it T-into the oem barb, then go to the rear intake pipe drill/threaded fitting?
- Will another hole need to be drill/tapped near the airbox now?
- Best recommendation for plugging the now un-used drill/threaded fitting on the front pipe?
- Is the problem definitely solved, or would it be better to wait prior to making any changes?
- Is it hurting anything to drive the XSport currently, with the prior install?

TIA for a comprehensive reply.

JimiJak · April 12, 2014, 06:14:28 PM

Just found this post from TunerBoost on the main PCV thread...

Quote from: Tuner Boost on April 12, 2014, 01:05:33 PM
Hey all, and any with the RX can installed on a flex or car please read. Simple minor change for the better:

PainterPat just left. What we found is the drill location for the front intake tube is before the fresh side barb, so at cruise it has been over powering the flow not allowing the can to work properly. So, everyone please note, no need to drill the front inlet pipe. Simply use the 5/8" barb to T into the back side one and then use a 90* 1/4 NPT x 3/8" barb for your clean side hose connection and drill it just after (down from) the air filter/air box. and connect the cleanside separator their. We tested and it worked properly, and it makes install easier. The trucks we can reach to drill downstream so that has never been an issue. Whichever fitting is closest to the turbo will over power the one up stream even if only by a few inches. So, he is checking back in 500-800 miles to see the accumulation at that time. Any questions, or anyone needing a fitting let us know and we will get it right out.

You want the fitting installed for the cleanside separator as close to the air filter as possible.

painterpatt · April 12, 2014, 06:47:00 PM

Clean side is now tapped next to air cleaner, move line from can to stock location on tube that clean side was removed from. Cap barb that was drilled into tube or remove and plug. Or I guess you could just cap the factory port cleanside was attached to.

JimiJak · April 12, 2014, 06:54:24 PM

TunerBoost: When moving the cleanside separator port, what's your recommendation for capping the oem intake barb and leaving the outlet from the can how it is currently routed VS. re-mounting the hose from the front side threaded barb onto the oem barb?

Thanks!

JimiJak · April 12, 2014, 07:22:46 PM

Thinking about all of this...a couple other ideas popped up I would love input on:

if the problem is the clean side separator getting too much vacuum, would it make sense to just constrict the cleanside hose, rather than re-routing it? (ie. reducing it down to a smaller size, or adding a check valve to slow the flow?) Maybe the two front ports could be juxtaposed, then restrict the cleanside? Just some ideas on how else to skin this proverbial cat. I would rather not leave an unused port in the intake unless I have to.

How would one test to see if it's working correctly?

dalum · April 12, 2014, 10:53:48 PM

Well that's going to be a little more difficult with the metal pipe on the K&N intake. With the Rx installed the cleanside separator hose is just a fresh air intake now (besides for a moment when switching to boost) right? Why would you want any suction on the end of this line? Is that what the "off road" oil cap does is just put a filter on the air intake for the PCV system?