Got my kit (DONE) today

shoman04 · January 27, 2014, 04:50:41 AM

Quote from: crash712us on January 26, 2014, 08:08:33 PM
Hmmm, not sure why you feel that way. Hoping you have the same check valve I am talking about, the check is small brass piece female end male the other screws in the back of spray nozzle. The purpose at least in our application, is with out it the car will constantly 1. syphon meth 2. in hotter month meth will boil in fuel line and force it self out into the intake. This will flood the car and will crank for many seconds before start. And you will lose your prime. The pump is suppose to have a check valve built in it according to julio. But I highly doubt since the syphoning that occurs.

Here the check vale inline before the 90deg turn.

shoman04 · January 27, 2014, 05:41:56 AM

Two thing, Did you check your system for leaks by powering the pump. I use wind-shield wash (it's 15/85 METH). 1)Some of us had a leak at the METH tank because the instruction put the clamp around the brass but it's better on the inside on the rubber only. 2) A fix for the slow fill of the new wind shield wash, is adding a vent line from the bottom tank to the top tank.

Mikesb · January 27, 2014, 07:59:40 AM

That looks just like my check valve. I did not check for leaks with pump on (nozzle and wires not installed) , except to fill WW and put some meth in the tank = no leaks on tank side. Knowing me I'll probably peel the skirts back after install is complete just to see if it's weeping at all

And I'm going to stick with the slow WW fill system, it will be ok seems how I almost never use it. The car is like 4 months old and when I worked on it yesterday the WW res was still full up to the cap

Mikesb · January 31, 2014, 08:52:13 AM

Going to finish install and retune tomorrow
Could I get answers on the lines with question marks
Especially
RELAY line #2 and #3
PAC line #4

Also if someone could read through my list and just see if it looks proper

PUMP three wires
1. Red / to PAC red / one of the three individual PAC wires
2. Black / to PAC black / one of the three individual PAC wires
3. Bare / to PAC wht / one of the three individual PAC wires.

RELAY four wires
1. Lg, red from shunt with bolt fitting crimped on / to battery poss term.

??
2. Red on relay, 12g and long / to PAC org (fused)12g / one of a two wire harness.

?
3. Gray / to fuse box / year specific / 2013 sho.

?
4. Black / ground to chassis

PAC seven wires remaining
(( six wire harness. ))
1. Green / to 3bar map
2. Brown / to LED brown.

?
3. Orange / to LED red.

?
4. Red / to Acc, where.

5. Violet / aux input ( not going to use).

?
6. Gray / aux input ( not going to use).

?

(( two wire harness )). One wire remaining
1. Black / ground to chassis

Mikesb · February 01, 2014, 08:30:16 AM

Finishing now
Still need help, let me narrow it down to two questions maybe 3

1. Gray wire from relay? I'm guessing fues #70 and how to attach? Just pull fues and pinch wires into slot?

2. Red from PAC (small one, in 6 wire harness that says +12 out accessory) somewhere different then the gray relay I'm assuming? Where and how to attach?

One puzzling thing in bpd's how-to is, he says there should be another wire going from relay to map? I thought the only wire going to the 3bar was the green from the PAC

PUMP three wires
1. Red / to PAC red / one of the three individual PAC wires
2. Black / to PAC black / one of the three individual PAC wires
3. Bare / to PAC wht / one of the three individual PAC wires.

RELAY four wires
1. Lg, red from shunt with bolt fitting crimped on / to battery poss term.

??
2. Red on relay, 12g and long / to PAC org (fused)12g / one of a two wire harness.

?
3. Gray / to fuse box / year specific / 2013 sho.

?
4. Black / ground to chassis

PAC seven wires remaining
(( six wire harness. ))
1. Green / to 3bar map
2. Brown / to LED brown.

?
3. Orange / to LED red.

?
4. Red / to Acc, where.

5. Violet / aux input ( not going to use).

?
6. Gray / aux input ( not going to use).

?

(( two wire harness )). One wire remaining
1. Black / ground to chassis

crash712us · February 01, 2014, 02:47:31 PM

Sorry Mike it has taken me so long to get back with you.

question 1. Gray wire from relay goes to fuse block which one for 2013 I do not know, you need a source that power on and off with the ignition.

Here is my schematic, with my notes.

Relay switch get power directly from battery and grounded gray signal relay from ignition on power. The other lead should go to PAC controller. Also note there is schematic on relay.

This what you should use when tapping into fuse box. Its called a fuse tap. Also there should be another type of fuse tap supplied with your kit its a small metal thing that you can crimp your wire into and slips of the fuse.

Mikesb · February 01, 2014, 09:51:16 PM

Did you read my 911. Just so I can rest a little better / is that what you would expect from running a 3bar without a 3bar tune?

All done with install but still waiting for tune. It's all installed and wired up but I have not hooked up battery and relay to ign fuse. Also the map is wired to PAC but I have the 2bar in for now

I do have a check engine light on (probably from that 3bar) how can I turn it off? Will my torque app do it or the mycal tuner?

Mikesb · February 02, 2014, 11:50:25 AM

One mor part to install. Still need to tap nozzle in. I can see where some have installed nozzle. 5 or 6 o'clock in line with that sensor or even just in front. I wonder where LMS puts them? Isn't that a air temp sensor. Wouldn't placement greatly affect engine management,

Mikesb · February 22, 2014, 10:01:07 PM

Today was the first time I got to test new tune, meth with 3bar

Drive around, on hwy when I giver her throttle runs fine and get red the green light. Seemed to work fine while cruzing but didn't really go full throttle and hold it while on the hwy

Then I tried a full launch from dead stop. She started popping like the dickens. So I let off. Only tried one more time and did the same thing
Any thought?

You think it's he meth or the tune?

shoman04 · February 22, 2014, 10:28:07 PM

Quote from: Mikesb on February 22, 2014, 10:01:07 PM
Today was the first time I got to test new tune, meth with 3bar

Drive around, on hwy when I giver her throttle runs fine and get red the green light. Seemed to work fine while cruzing but didn't really go full throttle and hold it while on the hwy

Then I tried a full launch from dead stop. She started popping like the dickens. So I let off. Only tried one more time and did the same thing
Any thought?

You think it's he meth or the tune?

The meth does not kick in until hi RPM's But the Meth Tune will give you more torque off the line. And if lunch to hard it will tire pop.

crash712us · February 22, 2014, 10:30:37 PM

At what boost pressure is it turning on? What number do you have the gain set at?

Mikesb · February 22, 2014, 10:58:23 PM

I'll get some readings (boost rpm ect) this is the first day I have drove the car sense meth and tune. It's the motor for sure / popping missing bad

crash712us · February 22, 2014, 11:20:31 PM

you want to set gain to 6-7 and turn on start priming at 5psi and go green at 8psi.

Mikesb · February 22, 2014, 11:32:28 PM

Ok thank you , I'll check. I think I have it set at 6

I'll do more thorough testing tomorrow, still gotta derive home tonight though
Just watching the light it seems to come on at good times, doesn't come on to easy. But when you get on it a bit it go's red/green pretty fast

Mikesb · February 23, 2014, 12:58:07 AM

Might have figured something out. Driving home tonight, from 40 to 110 mph full throttle green light and ran flawless. What I noticed from a stop and go full throttle it hits red line way fast 6500 rpms and I think it running into a rev limiter. And that's exactly what it feels and sounds like - pop p-pop pp-pop p-pop - I can see it on the tach too
That is a launch in drive

One other thing - I put down pipes (w/cats) on after meth and tune wonder if that would have something to do with it