Car update.

RagingPenguin · October 03, 2015, 12:55:51 AM

Quote from: ajpturbo on October 03, 2015, 12:04:46 AM
I was being sarcastic...u have something else wrong...just coincidence now that u arent hearing it

Isn't so easy to catch via text.

If I revert the car back to the stock tune I'm confident the noise comes back.

If tuning it fixes the problem wouldn't one leave it tuned?

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AJP turbo · October 03, 2015, 01:42:36 AM

If you can sleep then leave it tuned lol

For some reason you have a car tha responds negatively to an oem tune..very strange and hard to believe but good for you i guess

Hhmm...my stock car is making a noise...let me throw another 80 horse power at it and see if it goes away..yep its gone, cool

SHOdded · October 03, 2015, 06:03:58 AM

Quote from: RagingPenguin on October 03, 2015, 12:55:51 AM
If I revert the car back to the stock tune I'm confident the noise comes back.

That's funny! It's usually the OTHER way around. A tune can cause the SHO to generate honk/hoot noises

ZSHO · October 03, 2015, 08:01:34 AM

The joy and happiness of getting your first tune makes you forget everything bad existed,hopefully it (runs)in your favor. Z

RagingPenguin · October 03, 2015, 09:35:14 AM

I had a local performance shop/ dealer tell me to tune it as well. Worst case noise remained.
Tuners argument was a third of #6s ring land was shrapnel and the car never threw codes consistently.
I'm a tune advocate. My F150 has ran a Edge EVO for the past 5 years and I'll never take it off. The truck does so much better with it.
Everything seems fine but I will be keeping a close eye on it. Who knows. Maybe it's well on it's way to grenading something in my driveline.
At some point I'm going to look into a better data logger
Any suggestions for that? Is torque an acceptable program or should I look at something better?

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SHOdded · October 03, 2015, 09:43:27 AM

Forscan is the true datalogger you need if you are not concerned with a nice GUI/realtime observation. I am using it on Android, and the GUI is somewhat improved over the Apple version. But gauge size is still fixed, for example.

For realtime/customizable gauges etc., Torque Pro is a great tool to have. Just don't rely on it for accurate trap time reporting

RagingPenguin · October 03, 2015, 10:03:42 AM

Forscan lite on marketplace?
I'll order the OBD reader they recommend as mine maybe a clone.

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SHOdded · October 03, 2015, 10:05:26 AM

Correct, for either Android or Apple. I think only the Windows version is simply "Forscan".

RagingPenguin · October 03, 2015, 01:03:41 PM

Awesome.
Ill be picking that up

This livelink I keep hearing about, is it only usable with certain scanners or is it software you import data into?
Saw a few pictures of it and it looks far easier to read than 100000 lines of data

ecoboostsho · October 03, 2015, 05:33:00 PM

Quote from: SHOdded on October 03, 2015, 09:43:27 AM
Forscan is the true datalogger you need if you are not concerned with a nice GUI/realtime observation. I am using it on Android, and the GUI is somewhat improved over the Apple version. But gauge size is still fixed, for example.

For realtime/customizable gauges etc., Torque Pro is a great tool to have. Just don't rely on it for accurate trap time reporting

Solid advice here. As much as I love Torque I've been playing with it recently and the update times are pretty bad...over 200-500 ms in some cases. It works great for fairly static gauges and is what I use on a daily basis but if I want to know what is really going I use FORSCAN. I can get 30 ms updates. I was missing some pretty big knock spikes (bad gas) with Torque because the update times were so bad but FORSCAN has a lot better resolution. I use excel for all my data analysis. The car puts out a lot of data!

FoMoCoSHO · October 03, 2015, 05:45:29 PM

Max data read on torque is .25/sec

Gauge refresh is way slower...

Dash command is blazing fast on the stock dashboard but slows down when you make custom gauges.

RagingPenguin · June 07, 2019, 10:44:56 PM

EPIC NECRO

... always seems like I mature so much when I leave these places.

However. Onto the fun

Another Update

I still have the car. The noise returned after a few weeks, however it doesn't seem to affecting performance. I've been running the LMS 4 tune since then and haven't touched it.

It only occurred at WOT and with no CELs or logged codes I said to heck with it, pin it to win it.

I'm assuming its drive line issues. Nothing has blown up 100,000kms later. But I fully own the car in August and intend on setting money aside for a transmission and PTU.

However I did in my typical "must learn the hard way" fashion, I tackled my own brakes. I decided to be frugal and treat it like my truck. Rotors in spec, fresh pads.

Idiot.

The front pads glazed so badly they shattered, and my car had easily the scariest brakes I've ever endured on a vehicle.

I promptly took it to my mechanic as it was out of my league, I didn't have the time and wasn't interested in tracking down the equipment for a proper ABS bleed.

New pads
New rotors
New to me HCU (mine was screwed, threw a used one on, at nearly a grand cheaper it was worth a try)
New front struts, new bearing, new mounts etc
New endlinks in the attempt at killing my bump clunk (does anyone KNOW what it is? Slow speed. Sounds like a strut get clobbered)
Fresh tires, Went with the Nitto Motivos

Current plans are to go get it professionally data logged and for a dyno run. To see how much power its actually making and to eliminate the possibility that the engine is having issues.

Only other thing that has occurred is the drivers seat cracked and one time on a big hill the car hiccuped and lost power briefly threw a fuel code. I have chalked that up to using the swill 91 from a station in the middle of no where. I pick my fuel stops much more carefully after that. Hasn't occurred since then but with the car nearing 200,000km I do think the fuel system might need some replacements in the future.

The PTU fluid has been changed once since I bought it.

Transmission had AMSoil put in it. Won't change it again assuming the engine gets clean bill of health.

In the event the engine does not get a clean bill of health. I'll drive it until it grenades and hopefully the Explorer ST is out.

Cheers everyone! Its beer night!

SHOdded · June 08, 2019, 05:11:24 AM

Not bad for another 100K km on the clock. Remember by any chance what the fuel code was? Might just need a new fuel pump control module.

Strut mounts/struts ever changed? Sway bar links can cause clunking, but are real obvious when taking corners at high speeds

You put on a decent amt of mileage annually, so, in kilometers ...
Trans fluid every 100K
Coolant every 100K
PTU every 50K
RDU every 100K
Redline Lightweight Shockproof for PTU/RDU. I like Amsoil Severe Gear also. No experience with other "boutique" brands.
Brake fluid - hopefully flushed when brakes done
Plugs - every 50K
Coils - need to be checked and maybe replaced. OEM is usually best, but MSD might be an option.
MAP & IAT sensors - clean every time you do plugs

If you change to mixed or city driving, halve the intervals above.

RagingPenguin · June 11, 2019, 02:05:10 PM

So far we've swapped the end links with a greaseable one, new struts, bushings, spring etc. Basically the entire thing got changed.

Nothing at speed, only occurs while driving slowly. Even the mechanic is coming up blank now. Going to check the steering rack next. I might look into replacing the control arm bushing etc.

I think I had done
Transmission fluid, engine coolant, PTU after I got the new SB in it. Brake fluid is all fresh, plugs are on my list for this summer.

Would like to have the performance shop give it the once over before I go too crazy on it. Few interior parts need to replaced (Kids stomped the rear HVAC grill in console, shifter has some play in it the fact it can twist is driving me nuts, assuming it got stomped on as well)