Good afternoon -

I just confirmed that I have a P0020 error code when I ran the diag on my check engine light on my 2012 Ford Taurus SHO with about 90,000 miles.  At about 40k, I had the LMS tune installed.  So 50,000 of those miles is running the Stage 3 (+ maybe?) tune from LMS.  I don't think it's relevant to the tune at all, but I mention just in case someone feels different and has experienced this as well.

I read the forum and someone with a practically brand new '14 SHO has this problem and it ended up being a loose wire in the harness that causes their problem.  I don't think I'm going to be as fortunate since this vehicle has been in service for many years, and many miles.  I've done the basic mods such as CAI, Trans cooler pack, etc... but that's the extent of the engine bay upgrades, and those were done years ago as well.

Anyway, I don't have a ton of $ to drop at the dealer to just drop it off and have them replace a bunch of parts that don't fix the problem.  Instead, I'm leaning on my fellow SHO Team members to guide me on what the best course of action would be.

P0020:  intake camshaft position actuator circuit/open  Bank 2.

Thanks everyone,

Halo3kbb

Looks like a possible wiring issue per this thread:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2463.msg40384.html#msg40384

Here's an exploded view of the location.

Since when have you had this POO20 code? are you experiencing any kind of symptoms at all.  Z

Quote from: SHOdded on September 16, 2015, 02:57:54 PM
Looks like a possible wiring issue per this thread:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2463.msg40384.html#msg40384

Yeah, I read this thread before posting. This guy had a a practically brand new Taurus and I have a sneaking suspicion I may have an actual part failure, or I could get lucky and it's just the harness. But, I'm not even sure where to look in my engine bay for a loose wire.  Can anybody help direct me?  Thanks - Halo3kbb

Quote from: glock-coma on September 16, 2015, 03:14:55 PM
Here's an exploded view of the location.

Thank you Glock-Coma -  but I'm not sure if I know what you're referring to here.  Is that part the actuator ?

Quote from: ZSHO on September 16, 2015, 04:17:59 PM
Since when have you had this POO20 code? are you experiencing any kind of symptoms at all.  Z

Just this morning I saw the CEL come on, and had an autoparts store around the corner tell me the error code.  The engine does run a little rough at idle, shaking the mirrors at times in the past few months, but I just blamed the extra load from the AC pump running and such.  This morning, it was nice out, but very humid.  97% as a I remember.  Anyway, that's about all the symptoms.  Otherwise, she runs like a raped ape still!

FORD OEM-Engine Camshaft Position Sensor AT4Z6B288A
http://www.ebay.com/itm/FORD-OEM-Engine-Camshaft-Position-Sensor-AT4Z6B288A-/230981811863

I would personally start off by cleaning up all the map sensors,IAT, sensors with some maf/electronic cleaner if not done so already,some basic maintenance is never to much,also have you changed your spark plugs recently and preferably gapped at 0.30 especially having a tune,sounds like you havent changed your oil in a while.  BTW could be beneficial to have a PCM reset done,especially after all the repairs.  Z    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM

Quote from: halo3kbb on September 16, 2015, 04:24:17 PM

Quote from: glock-coma on September 16, 2015, 03:14:55 PM
Here's an exploded view of the location.

Thank you Glock-Coma -  but I'm not sure if I know what you're referring to here.  Is that part the actuator ?

your right. I thought you were looking for the sensor. But you need the actuator. My bad.

Quote from: ZSHO on September 16, 2015, 04:47:44 PM
I would personally start off by cleaning up all the map sensors,IAT, sensors with some maf/electronic cleaner if not done so already,some basic maintenance is never to much,also have you changed your spark plugs recently and preferably gapped at 0.30 especially having a tune,sounds like you havent changed your oil in a while.  BTW could be beneficial to have a PCM reset done,especially after all the repairs.  Z    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM

Good morning Z-

I don't want to make it sound like I'm not doing the very basic of maintenance on this car (ie, change oil, etc...) hahaha!  But to be more specific, no;  I have not cleaned any sensors.  Should I remove the LMS tune for now and run through the computer wipe in the video to see if that helps?

Quote from: halo3kbb on September 17, 2015, 11:13:26 AM

Quote from: ZSHO on September 16, 2015, 04:47:44 PM
I would personally start off by cleaning up all the map sensors,IAT, sensors with some maf/electronic cleaner if not done so already,some basic maintenance is never to much,also have you changed your spark plugs recently and preferably gapped at 0.30 especially having a tune,sounds like you havent changed your oil in a while.  BTW could be beneficial to have a PCM reset done,especially after all the repairs.  Z    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hZAsoqmqhdM

Good morning Z-

I don't want to make it sound like I'm not doing the very basic of maintenance on this car (ie, change oil, etc...) hahaha!  But to be more specific, no;  I have not cleaned any sensors.  Should I remove the LMS tune for now and run through the computer wipe in the video to see if that helps?

Doing a PCM reset certainly wont hurt especially based on your service history and make sure to revert back to stock tune,also like mentioned earlier new plugs gapped at 0.30 must be changed frequently long with a cooler stat  for optimum performance,maybe LME will chime in on the topic,post some pics of the ride and go under introduction . Z

The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life. 

Quote from: Livernois Motorsports on September 17, 2015, 12:13:47 PM
The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life.

I appreciate your insight on the topic and quite honestly its great to have an inside perspective from your own tuning co,thanks  Z 

Quote from: Livernois Motorsports on September 17, 2015, 12:13:47 PM
The car most likely has a mechanical issue that is causing the cam sensor code.  The car could have a sensor / wiring issue, or it may actually be doing it's job by reporting something is off.  There is a legitimate timing chain stretch issue on the EcoBoost 3.5 that could cause similar issues or codes.  Guys that change their oil for instance every 8-10,000 miles would be more susceptible to this versus those that change oil religiously at 3k every time.  Not saying this is the case with your vehicle what so ever just to be clear.  But there is proof of this happening on vehicles that were not maintained as well as the next that could lead to further issues later on in life.

Could you expound on this?

How does oil play a factor in the timing chain stretch issue?

I ask because I'm testing some extended drain interval custom oil.

If This oil performs as well at 10K as oem at 3K is there still an issue?