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weird grinding/scratching noise from behind dashboard

Started by peppelepugh, November 16, 2014, 08:49:07 AM

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peppelepugh

So it seems i tend to hear some weird Grinding/scratching/gear clicking noise behind my gauge cluster every now and again when the car isn't moving and radio is down. (i swear i can hear anything out of the ordinary on this car sometimes).

it goes for half a second with a little intensity at the beginning. then stops shortly. almost like a servo motor being twisted by hand?

I tooled around with the climate control and i think i've got it narrowed down to  my defroster? I notice if i kill all climate control, it stops, if i have it set on blowing out of the vents... nothing... set it to defrost, it starts to happen.

I won't be able to get a sound recording until thanksgiving time due to work travels ATM.

Thanks all in advance!
2011 Kona Blue SHO non-PP: MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, All interior lights LEDs, LED Puddles, and LED Reverse.

EBC Stage 4 Brake kit, 170* T-stat, 3-Bar MAP, NGK Plugs, PPE Catless-DPs and Tune by Torrie!

SHOdded

Blend door or climate control module would be first & foremost guesses.  There might be a TSB relating to the CCM, will have to check.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

SHOnUup

Wonder if the cold has a factor in being able to hear this now?

Rich

2011 Sterling Gray Metallic SHO non PP,
12.4211 @ 110.28 Livernois 3bar tune & CAI,
Added since...PPE catless Dpipes, Megan coilovers, Powergrid adjustable end links, and EBC slotted rotors and red stuff pads.
Tommy Designs grille with carbon fiber hydrographics, fender badges and fog bezels hydrodipped also, tinted windows, head & taillights, debadged trunk with all chrome plasti-dipped, black calipers, obdlink mx scantool running torque pro on 7" tablet.

glock-coma

Blend door actuator motor. There's 2 of them. One behind glove box (the easy one to change) and one more towards the middle of the dash. (Pita to change)
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

peppelepugh

Murphy's Law states that the one i need to change is in the middle of the dash!!!! haha

Thanks Glock!

I'll probably order one off Rock Auto and have me a project over thanksgiving. If i'm changing one, might as well change both you think?

Also, BEFORE I GOOGLE IT, anyone know of any write ups for the one behind the dash board?
2011 Kona Blue SHO non-PP: MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, All interior lights LEDs, LED Puddles, and LED Reverse.

EBC Stage 4 Brake kit, 170* T-stat, 3-Bar MAP, NGK Plugs, PPE Catless-DPs and Tune by Torrie!

peppelepugh

I just need to figure out if its part number:
MOTORCRAFT Part # YH1779
OR
MOTORCRAFT Part # YH1769
2011 Kona Blue SHO non-PP: MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, All interior lights LEDs, LED Puddles, and LED Reverse.

EBC Stage 4 Brake kit, 170* T-stat, 3-Bar MAP, NGK Plugs, PPE Catless-DPs and Tune by Torrie!

SHOdded

#6
YH1779 (AA5Z-19E616-C) is the glove box one:
http://192.169.59.225/index.php/topic,495.0.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/280886764325

I believe the OEM part number for YH1769 is AA5Z-19E616-A.  Pics courtesy of Tasca here:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281476136193
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

peppelepugh

Welp, I think the motor is on its last leg. Defrost only worked on half of the car on Saturday and then today the mix of hot and cold blowing on me when car was at operation temp.... well it was annoying.

I plan on replacing them all since its winter and I'm not dealing with being cold (i just got back from warm vacation... so i'm still grumpy about this 16* weather as i always am when i get home)

I'm looking at replacing parts 9, 10, and 11:
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2011/ford/taurus/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/hvac-cat/evaporator-and-heater-components-scat/?part_number=aa5z19e616c

And just getting the parts off rock auto:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3102459

Anyone have any red-flags to watch for or recommendations?

THANKS IN ADVANCE GUYS!
2011 Kona Blue SHO non-PP: MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, All interior lights LEDs, LED Puddles, and LED Reverse.

EBC Stage 4 Brake kit, 170* T-stat, 3-Bar MAP, NGK Plugs, PPE Catless-DPs and Tune by Torrie!

MDesign Performance

2011 MKS EcoBoost: MDesign Carbon Cold Air Intake; SP-534 Plugs; Power Stop C/S Rotors

sales@mdesignperformance.com
www.mdesignperformance.com
www.facebook.com/MDesignPerformance

peppelepugh

Thanks Ahmad... i have a feeling i'm just going to knock out all 3 and be done with it!
2011 Kona Blue SHO non-PP: MDesign Carbon Fiber CAI, All interior lights LEDs, LED Puddles, and LED Reverse.

EBC Stage 4 Brake kit, 170* T-stat, 3-Bar MAP, NGK Plugs, PPE Catless-DPs and Tune by Torrie!