Quote from: SHOnUup on July 21, 2014, 01:29:32 PM
Could this be from keeping the obdlink plugged in?

are we not supposed to leave the OBD plugged in?

i used to leave mine in the port all the time and one day the car wouldn't turn over intially and then kept scrolling thru the menus once it did start...

Quote from: MeanKS on July 21, 2014, 03:15:48 PM

Quote from: SHOnUup on July 21, 2014, 01:29:32 PM
Could this be from keeping the obdlink plugged in?

are we not supposed to leave the OBD plugged in?

i used to leave mine in the port all the time and one day the car wouldn't turn over intially and then kept scrolling thru the menus once it did start...

I guess if you have link in and don't shut torque down it will throw all kinds of dash warnings at you when starting. Had this happen the other day. I just unplug to be sure now.

I keep mine plugged in all the time and Torque just goes to sleep. I have never had an issue.

Does this happen in stock set up? Or just while running tune?

Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 21, 2014, 03:23:14 PM
I keep mine plugged in all the time and Torque just goes to sleep. I have never had an issue.

Lucky you, twice it's happened now as the wife informed it did it to her also.

Quote from: SHOnUup on July 21, 2014, 03:25:13 PM

Quote from: ecoboostsho on July 21, 2014, 03:23:14 PM
I keep mine plugged in all the time and Torque just goes to sleep. I have never had an issue.

Lucky you, twice it's happened now as the wife informed it did it to her also.

Weird...I could see why that would be unnerving...

like someone else suggested/ asked.... return to stock tune. Clear codes (even if none are showing on dash) and see if problem persists.

And I would disconnect the OBDII dongle ether way. Doesn't matter if people don't experience probs with it in all the time. Their cars are also working right now. Eliminate as many variables as possible when diagnosing.

Running that rich may have fouled plugs though.

Quote from: kinder on July 21, 2014, 03:57:16 PM
like someone else suggested/ asked.... return to stock tune. Clear codes (even if none are showing on dash) and see if problem persists.

And I would disconnect the OBDII dongle ether way. Doesn't matter if people don't experience probs with it in all the time. Their cars are also working right now. Eliminate as many variables as possible when diagnosing.

Running that rich may have fouled plugs though.

As soon as I get done with class I will swap out MAP sensors, change tune back to stock, and then see if the problem persists. I do not leave the bluetooth OBDII plugged in unless I am datalogging. If it is still acting up I will swap coil 3 with another coil and see if it still throws a code. It is my understanding that it is based off the crank sensor determing that when that cylinder should be firing it is not seeing an increase in rotational speed, therefore it can determine what cylinder is misfiring. Just my luck it is on the backside of the engine. :?

I believe #3 is on the backside, closest to the driver.  Copying the diagram from elsewhere on the 'net, as you stand in front of the SHO, looking towards the windshield:

1 2 3
O O O
----------
O O O
4 5 6

#1-3 are on the backside, #4-6 are on the front, easiest to access.  I believe BiGMaC's SHO had a valve cover leak in that location, could have shorted out the coil, possibly causing the spark not to fire properly even though fuel is spraying.

Quote from: SHOdded on July 21, 2014, 04:38:18 PM
I believe #3 is on the backside, closest to the driver.  Copying the diagram from elsewhere on the 'net, as you stand in front of the SHO, looking towards the windshield:

1 2 3
O O O
----------
O O O
4 5 6

#1-3 are on the backside, #4-6 are on the front, easiest to access.  I believe BiGMaC's SHO had a valve cover leak in that location, could have shorted out the coil, possibly causing the spark not to fire properly even though fuel is spraying.

Swapped 3 and 6s coil and reset ecu.  Get the same cylinder 3 misfire. Once engine cools down I will pull plug. A friend followed me hime and said the car smelled of fuel bad and had blue smoke babying it.

Here is a link to the cylinder numbering. I knew I posted it up a while back when I was having some issues with misfire codes. I change to plug and all has been well since.

http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2208.msg31602.html#msg31602

So I swapped the coils around and reset the tune to factory and swapped back to a two bar map sensor. Still takes 15 seconds to fire and runs like poop. Smells like gas out the exhaust and when a load is put on it I get bluish smoke, and the cylinder 3 misfire comes back along with the P00C6. Has anyone changed out injectors before? It looks like I have to pull the intake manifold to get to them, and I have no clue what it looks like under there. I'm guessing Ford will charge about a grand, and my extended warranty on the powertrain won't cover it. I guess I will have to do it my self if the extended warranty doesn't cover it.

Edit:  Drove it down the block and just smells like gas horribly. Also am getting bank one rich codes and showing almost 1v on bank 1 02 sensor. its also calling for bank one to goto -30% on fuel trim.

Highly inadvisable to drive the car in this condition, risk ruining your cats with the excess fuel.  Try this free Chilton's resource online referred to in this post:

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/13205-chilton-2007-13-ford-edge-manual-available/#entry103079

Click this link "http://infotrac.galegroup.com/itweb/hunt35713?db=CHLL" at the bottom of the page to bring up the library page.  Then click on Proceed to redirect to the Chilton Library homepage.

How many miles are on the car?

Hate to see a car down like this. If i was close I'd help you swap the injector.

Quote from: wasinger3000 on July 22, 2014, 01:00:23 AM
How many miles are on the car?

Hate to see a car down like this. If i was close I'd help you swap the injector.

61k. It doesn't look to bad just pull the intake and then 6 bolts on the rail along with the fuel line. The chilton link was awesome let me pull up the sho manual. It says I need a injector puller to get it out of the cylinder head and a tool to put the orings on the new injector.

My local dealer has the injector listed at 196 and tasca has them listed at 90. I was debating towing it to the dealer  for a fuel fliw test where the measure fuel pressure and turn on and of each injector but I don't think the $75 is needed.