Hello all. As the subject says I have a 2010 Lincoln MKS Ecoboost which is currently completely stock. I've been looking around online for a while now and I am not quite sure what the best route is to go with it. I would like to keep the exterior looking as stock as possible, with the exception of some LEDs.

So far what I have become interested in is as follows:

1.ATP Turbo Flex/SHO/Explorer Sport MKT/MKS Turbo Upgrade, 200-250hp increase ($2200)
http://shop.ecoboostpowerparts.com/ATP-Turbo-Flex-SHO-Explorer-Sport-MKT-MKS-Turbo-Upgrade-ATPTV6.htm

2.Ford Flex/SHO Lincoln MKT/MKS Hot Pipes, no cat, Tial BoV, powder coated, stainless steel, and thermal coated ($1200)
http://shop.ecoboostpowerparts.com/Ford-Flex-SHO-Lincoln-MKT-MKS-Hot-Pipes-EB-HotPipes.htm

3.Livernois Motorsports 2010-12 Taurus SHO MyCal Tuner / Intake / 160* Thermostat / Downpipe Combo kit w/o cat and with either the stage 4 or 4+ settings for 91 and 93 octane ($1579.99)
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/products/2010%252d12-Taurus-SHO-MyCal-Tuner-%7B47%7D-Intake-%7B47%7D-160*-Thermostat-%7B47%7D-Downpipe-Combo.html

4.Powdercoated SHO "noisemaker" eliminator pipe ($210)
http://shop.ecoboostpowerparts.com/SHO-noisemaker-eliminator-pipe-SHOEliminator.htm

5.CORSA 10-13 TAURUS SHO / MKS SPORT CAT-BACK SYSTEM (4" TIPS) ($1384.99)
http://www.livernoismotorsports.com/products/CORSA-10%252d13-TAURUS-SHO-%7B47%7D-MKS-SPORT-CAT%252dBACK-SYSTEM-%284%22-TIPS%29.html

6.RevExtreme Clean Side Oil Separator ($99)
http://shop.ecoboostpowerparts.com/RevExtreme-Clean-Side-Oil-Separator-RXCleanSide.htm

I'm really new at all of this so please, give me advice if it doesn't make sense to perform some of these mods or if I am going to need to install other mods to the internal components of my engine or anything else to make my car work safely with all that power.

Oh, I almost forgot to ask, does anyone know of an intercooler upgrade that will fit in the MKS? All the intercoolers I seem to find are universal ones and I have no idea how much space there is behind my bumper to fit one.

Also, is it advisable to install a methynol system? I don't plan on racing on the track at all, I just want to be able to surprise the $hit out of anyone I pull up next to at a stop light.

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone here may provide me with and have a great day,
-Wally.

Seems like I great start thus far.....

Although I'm sure others will chime in with their own opinions, I'll address your question regarding Methanol, as you specifically asked about that.

All of us Methanol users here, have seen an immediate .5-.6 drop in 1/4 mile times, coupled with lower intake temps, as well as the ancillary benefits of it's system cleaning qualities.

What you should be considering is, especially if you have ZERO intentions of tracking it, that the start up expense of the kits alone (as they vary between both Mfg'ers, and their selling Vendors) is big factor, as well as your long term expense of having to purchase Methanol as needed/required.

So it might not fiscally be your best choice, but you sure will surprise the poop out of any opponent you line up next to, at any given street light in your community, that's for sure.

Most 5gal pails of Methanol are running anywhere between $45-$60 each.

In lieu of the 5gal pail(s), I personally for this year, and likely beyond, will be ditching the 5gal jobbers, and instead, opting to purchase a 55gal drum (about $250) and a small, manual pump mechanism ($25-$35) to pump the product out.

Much more cost prohibitive IMHO. Well, at least for me that is...... cuz I go through it like a mad man! 

The noise maker delete piece is included if your purchase the hot pipe kit.

IMHO....

First .....do the Tune, downpipes and T-stat (replace plugs with Motorcraft SP534 or equivalent... one heat range cooler and gap your plugs to .030 also)...see the second rec... ALSO...

Second .....Do the 3BAR MAP sensor mod... and have LMS mod the tune for it (mine works GREAT!)... you will then have the MAP you're going to need when you do the turbo upgrade (stock sensor and tuning cannot even sense boost above about 14.5 psi (you stock turbos can generate 16-17psi reliably with the LMS v8 tune... no need to dump it out the wastegate) The ATPs will get you 25psi easy.

You don't need the noisemaker eliminator pipe if you do hotpipes... I would suggest doing the entire hotpipe set... it gets you the eliminator included (it's just the intercooler to throttle-body pipe) and your ready for the increased boost from the ATP turbos when you do it.  (I love my hotpipes!).  Hot pipes are the charge pipes (hi pressure after turbos, but before TB... no cat is available or needed.... the ceramic has no performance benefit on hotpipes or downpipes (at least when Mike and I tested them all on the dyno using my 'q3 SHO... either PC or ceramic... PC is a lot cheaper!  I did ceramic for aesthetics... Mike and I dyno'ed... no difference with ceramic vs bare downpipes.
 
There is also no proven performance advantage for the choice of BoV OEM vs TIAL)... I have the OEM on my EBPP hotpipes because I didn't want the loose unused OEM rear BoV just secured to something under the engine cover... If you take it of you throw a CEL and DTC immediately (you can clear but it comes right back until you hook up the rear BoV electrical connection.   I also wanted my blow-off to work from the ECU rather than having to change springs like the TIAL... This is a personal choice you'll have to make

JimiJak can weigh in here, as he is more familiar than I am on this,.... but likely the cleanside separator is wasted money if your not going to do the catch can.

I'd do the turbo's last personally

Currently no intercooler upgrade is available for the SHO or MKS...

If you live in an emissions state... be sure the third O2 sensor is on when you present for testing or you'll fail readiness due to DTC on emissions system.

Real world test your car with OEM intake and AirAid... many have actually seen decreased performance with K&N or AirAid... 4DR and bamsho for sure... and got the time (.15-.2 in the quarter) back by reinstalling stock.   Mike and i dyno'ed my SHO with OEM intake.... and also just an open pip with everything from the saxophone out removed... no difference... it's the saxophone after the filter-box that's the problem... I am having these pipes rebuilt now to see if they make a difference... It may eventually be marketed by a company called MDesigns... I'm not selling.. just know intakes are still an area of development for our cars.

There's a lot more... but those are the salient points for a strong system and not spending XS $

bpd is one of the 4-5 pioneers of methanlo in these cars... his info is excellent

--------->Here is a list originally posted by 4DR Oct '13 (he had a 600WHP Flex!)  It may be of some use to you:

Thought this might be a good topic for new owners to review:
I'm going to rank these by my opinion of best mod by power per dollar spent.
1. Tuning - you can pick up 30-70HP here pretty easily depending on what fuel is available to you and if you want to run race gas or not. Figure around $500 with tuner. The lower octane you can run the lower HP you an pick up thus the range. If you really want to maximize your power with tuning doing a dyno tuning session with your tuner will pick up another 10 to 30HP (IMHO) but will cost you a few hundred dollars more. If you're looking for ever HP safely this is the best case scenario.

2. Meth injection - you can pick up another 30-60 HP here depending on how aggressive you want to get with timing and your tuner. Cost between $200 and $1000 depending on how fancy you want to get with controllers, extra bottles for storage etc.

3. Turbo upgrade - If you have a tune and meth injection (my suggestion) or an aux fueling solution (discussed later) you can upgrade your turbos. Worth another 30-?  (most HP now is 600WHP with aux fueling)HP. Currently the upgrades upgrade either your compressor wheel and/or add an aftermarket wastegate. There is also a full turbo upgrade coming this fall or winter so no one knows the true maximum output of the turbo upgrade scenario yet and how much power the block will take. Currently $1500 to $2000 for the two stock turbo upgrades, and $2200 for a true turbo center section upgrade.

4. Downpipes - luckily multiple companies offer these now and they're getting cheaper, between $700ish and $1000 for around 20ish HP and quicker spooling of the turbos.
5. Exhaust - $100ish (remove 3rd cat, resonator and mufflers with straight pipe) to $1000+ for full stainless catback exhausts. Another 20ish HP here.
6. Intake - jury is out on this one, we've seen these drop ET/MPH from doing intakes but hopefully we'll be coming out with a new intake tube per turbo with a cold air or sealed stock style box soon. $200ish to $700

Optionals not normally used (my crazy mad scientist mods)
Nitrous - I've personally ran a 75 shot on my Flex and picked up .6 in the 1/4 mile. You can pick up a used kit and controller on Craigslist pretty cheaply and install. For all brand new gear it can get expensive. $250 (used parts) to $$$$$ for new.

Auxiliary fuel system - I'm the only one who's built one so far, to replicate with what I know now around $2800. Gives the ability for unlimited fuel without the HPFP sagging under load. Needed in the long term for the true turbo upgrade or if you want to run E85. This includes injectors, dual in tank fuel pumps and a modified intake manifold or intake spacer (working on this one)

E85 or E85 mix - Auxiliary fuel system required for this one as the stock system can't handle ANY E85 mix without running out of fuel. E85 let's you increase the timing massively and run "hotter" boost while cooling the intake track off as well. An alternative to running alky/water injection but a true fuel. Requires dual in tank fuel pumps to replace factory pump. This fuel has allowed me to get to 600WHP on just a turbo upgrade and downpipes/cutout.

Exhaust Manifolds - Now that I've hit 600WHP, the small size of the factory exhaust manifolds is starting to get in the way, need to find a way to replace stockers, this might open up a way to also install a T3 turbo swap.

Water to Air Intercooler - 600WHP has caused me to start looking hard at the factory intercooler and replacing it. An aftermarket water to air will be the best scenario as there's just no good way to fit a big air to air in the front of the car. I'm guessing at the current 26PSI I'm at that I can pick up 30-50WHP here.

Dual-in-tank fuel pumps - Auxiliary fuel system required for this one as the stock system can't handle ANY E85 mix without running out of fuel. E85 let's you increase the timing massively and run "hotter" boost while cooling the intake track off as well. An alternative to running alky/water injection but a true fuel.


Cheers!

I would also consider that PTU/RDU fluid changes may be in your future with all the power upgrades.  Once while you are adding the mods, then 25K-30K mile intervals thereafter.

Thank you all for your quick responses.

If I do add the stage 3 Snow Methanol kit and their Snow SafeInjection system or the Livernois Motorsports 5 gallon system am I then committed to keeping methanol running thru my car at all times or can I choose to use it or not? Also, which, in your opinion, is the better quality system that offers the best performance? How quick does 5 gallons of methanol get used up if driving aggressively about half the time and driving nicely the other half?

Any recommendations as to what performance tuner(s) I should purchase?

One of the main reasons why I wanted to upgrade the BoV  was to get that distinct "pssst" sound when I shift (I for whatever reason have always LOVED that sound).

I think I would also be much more inclined to go with a methanol set-up instead of an E85 system. I also do not have access to racing fuel anywhere close to home but the BP gas stations in my area have 93 octane as their premium.

You mentioned something about upgrading the exhaust manifold in order to do a T3 turbo swap? Is this something that exists and is out there waiting for me to purchase or just a desire of yours for the time being?

I guess what my goal with my MKS is to get it up to at least 600awhp but I would of course LOVE to get 7-800awhp (which seems feasible?)

Does anyone here have any experience with the Hennessey dual cold air intake or with any of their other mods for the SHO/MKS? To me it seems like it is a little over priced for what you're getting (a Hennessey nameplate and less performance per dollar) but I could be wrong?

Through adding all this power VIA turbo upgrades and methanol systems and such I am assuming that it is going to be necessary to upgrade the internals of the engine itself and the drive train to prevent destroying them or did Ford build these cars well enough to handle an incredible amount of high performance mods?

If someone could possibly write up a list of all the performance parts/mods including make and model numbers to help me achieve this goal I would be forever grateful.

One thing I should mention is that here in Minnesota we do not have any sort of emission testing so I shouldn't have a problem with eliminating the cat.

Oh, SHOdded, I guess it is very aparrent that I am a complete newb but what are the PTU/RDU fluids? (and please don't tell me it has something to do with blinker fluid haha  )

All your ideas are great. But there can only be 1 super sleeper MKS. Lol.

So... Here's my 2 cents... 
RDU=Rear Drive Unit... the equivalent we have of a rear differential
PTU=Power Take-off Unit... the box that takes power and routes it to the rear wheels ... most of us agree these are about 30K service intervals optimally despite Ford recs in the OM of the car.... The PTU is felt to be a weak area.

As far as powertrain...
There are no currently available  aftermarket (or FORD) upgrades nor any non-Ford rebuild kits ... Ford engineers designed it to be reliable at the stock 365 CHP (about 20% higher than the number for AWHP).... Up to 400-500 AWHP no one appears to be having any problems.   At about 600 AWHP, especially with frequent drag racing or stoplight chasing, problems begin to occur.  4DR had a 600+ AWHP Flex (same transverse EB engine and drive train essentially as our cars)... When he got over 600AWHP he began to notice tranny noises indicating problems and traded it.

Once they are VTA (vent to atmosphere) as any hotpipe kit you describe will do, you'll get the PFFFfffttt!... but only when you get off the throttle because the ECU equations are all torque based (not HP as others) and this of course controls boost that causes the noise.  It is not loud at att... I can't hear it over the radio because our cars are very quiet inside.  As far as shifting... Most folks do not use the paddles to shift, as just holding down the throttle is more efficient and results in faster times.  I do not hear BoVs blowoff at full throttle running from a stop or slow roll at shifts

ATP makes a bolt-on turbo upgrade for your engine... 
Mike has them in his store... that increases impeller diameter 25% (A LOT!)... there is no aftermarket manifold currently available.

Hennessey is WAY overpriced    and NOT a big name in turbo GDI engines like ours... (Gas Direct Injection) 
Their intake itself is untested as an individual item in our cars... and frankly I think the claims they make are just that... dynos can be "doctored"  When the "H" company is mentioned here the word "sux" comes up a lot.  You can custom make this a lot cheaper as a "one of"!... I am having one fabbed right now.... when it's done I'll post dyno data good or bad.... If you just want to hear the turbos spool or have the eye candy... K&N or AirAid are there no at 1/10 the cost of Hennessey (remember that you may (may) actually lose power with them... modding is a trade-off game.

Tuners...
Personally, at present I would not let anyone other than Dan Millen at LMS or Torrie McPhail at Unleashed tune my 3.5 EB.  There are a lot of discussions, but I think it all boils down to how much YOU (not your tuner) want to work at it.... ultimately I went with LMS because I can monitor and discuss without data logging... I wanted to drive my SHO and LMS is simpler IMHO.... am I giving up something?,... maybe, but I also wanted dependability and longevity. All tuning will wear an engine faster. 
BTW the fastest SHO on record (the 11 sec one) is LMS tuned... 'nuff said... don't want to start an argument as most people are passionate about their choice.  Just get tuned!  It is the single biggest performance "bang for the buck" that you can do.

On the catback... for performance consider the cutout that EBPP will soon release...that is the maximum reduction of exhaust flow possible... boost activated opening  ... and for when you don't want it... a solenoid on-off switch.  There are also some very innovative exhaust systems coming very soon that are leas than half the cost of Corsa (which is a great exhaust, BTW)

My last bit of advice, since, as you say, your a newbie to this platform which is different than others... Educate yourself. 
Beyond tuning, DPs, and HPs  .... be sure you understand what you're doing to your motor and why you do it that way.... don't just rush in on anyone's advice    .... including mine... do your own research!

Quote from: BiGMaC on April 27, 2014, 09:39:32 PM
So... Here's my 2 cents... 
RDU=Rear Drive Unit... the equivalent we have of a rear differential
PTU=Power Take-off Unit... the box that takes power and routes it to the rear wheels ... most of us agree these are about 30K service intervals optimally despite Ford recs in the OM of the car.... The PTU is felt to be a weak area.

As far as powertrain...
There are no currently available  aftermarket (or FORD) upgrades nor any non-Ford rebuild kits ... Ford engineers designed it to be reliable at the stock 365 CHP (about 20% higher than the number for AWHP).... Up to 400-500 AWHP no one appears to be having any problems.   At about 600 AWHP, especially with frequent drag racing or stoplight chasing, problems begin to occur.  4DR had a 600+ AWHP Flex (same transverse EB engine and drive train essentially as our cars)... When he got over 600AWHP he began to notice tranny noises indicating problems and traded it.

Once they are VTA (vent to atmosphere) as any hotpipe kit you describe will do, you'll get the PFFFfffttt!... but only when you get off the throttle because the ECU equations are all torque based (not HP as others) and this of course controls boost that causes the noise.  It is not loud at att... I can't hear it over the radio because our cars are very quiet inside.  As far as shifting... Most folks do not use the paddles to shift, as just holding down the throttle is more efficient and results in faster times.  I do not hear BoVs blowoff at full throttle running from a stop or slow roll at shifts

ATP makes a bolt-on turbo upgrade for your engine... 
Mike has them in his store... that increases impeller diameter 25% (A LOT!)... there is no aftermarket manifold currently available.

Hennessey is WAY overpriced    and NOT a big name in turbo GDI engines like ours... (Gas Direct Injection) 
Their intake itself is untested as an individual item in our cars... and frankly I think the claims they make are just that... dynos can be "doctored"  When the "H" company is mentioned here the word "sux" comes up a lot.  You can custom make this a lot cheaper as a "one of"!... I am having one fabbed right now.... when it's done I'll post dyno data good or bad.... If you just want to hear the turbos spool or have the eye candy... K&N or AirAid are there no at 1/10 the cost of Hennessey (remember that you may (may) actually lose power with them... modding is a trade-off game.

Tuners...
Personally, at present I would not let anyone other than Dan Millen at LMS or Torrie McPhail at Unleashed tune my 3.5 EB.  There are a lot of discussions, but I think it all boils down to how much YOU (not your tuner) want to work at it.... ultimately I went with LMS because I can monitor and discuss without data logging... I wanted to drive my SHO and LMS is simpler IMHO.... am I giving up something?,... maybe, but I also wanted dependability and longevity. All tuning will wear an engine faster. 
BTW the fastest SHO on record (the 11 sec one) is LMS tuned... 'nuff said... don't want to start an argument as most people are passionate about their choice.  Just get tuned!  It is the single biggest performance "bang for the buck" that you can do.

On the catback... for performance consider the cutout that EBPP will soon release...that is the maximum reduction of exhaust flow possible... boost activated opening  ... and for when you don't want it... a solenoid on-off switch.  There are also some very innovative exhaust systems coming very soon that are leas than half the cost of Corsa (which is a great exhaust, BTW)

My last bit of advice, since, as you say, your a newbie to this platform which is different than others... Educate yourself. 
Beyond tuning, DPs, and HPs  .... be sure you understand what you're doing to your motor and why you do it that way.... don't just rush in on anyone's advice    .... including mine... do your own research!

Oh okay, gotcha. I figured something would have to be done with the drive train after adding a lot of power.

Is the ATP bolt on turbo you're talking about the one I linked to in my initial post? If so then with just the power increase that gives i'll be running around 550-600hp then add in the hot pipes, the livernois mycal stage 4 or 4+, the down pipe combo kit, whatever exhaust kit I end up putting on there (I want something that sounds nice and beefy, perhaps somewhat exotic), the 3 bar map sensor, and possibly a methanol injection system my Luci' will be well over 600, if i'm doing my math correctly that is.

Oh, I had contacted Livernois a few days ago when I discovered their tuners and the guy who e-mailed me back, anthony , had recommended using the Livernois exclusive Windstorm cold air intake, a colder 160 degree even flo thermostat, and the precision gapped spark plugs that they offer as well. He then went into details about their vast experience in tuning and working with the EcoBoost platform which has kinda swayed me towards using their products. My question is though, does anyone on this forum have any experience with their Windstorm CAI? If so is it better/worse/the same as all the others/oem intake?


What is your personal position on the Methanol injection systems, is it something that I should or need to add in order to utilize the expensive turbos I'm planning on putting on my engine? If I do add the Methanol system to it is it possible to have a separate setting in the myCal tuner from Livernois so I can run my car without the methanol by essentially turning it off? Or would you just skip the Methanol system alltogether?



I'm just trying to gather as many different experienced people's opinions on everything so I can learn as much as possible before I make any decisions as to what mods I decide to go with because afterall, I'm the one who will be paying for everything, I'll be the one playing with the car when it's finished, and I'm the one who will be ultimately enjoying/appreciating it so I want to make sure I have enough evidence and facts about all my options before I foot the bill and start buying/installing expensive performance parts in my baby.

Quote from: TaurusBuilder on April 27, 2014, 08:54:45 PM
All your ideas are great. But there can only be 1 super sleeper MKS. Lol.

I'll race ya when I'm done with mine. :

You will likely NOT obtain the WHP #'s you are projecting / calculating.

Internals come into play & anything in the 450-500AWHP range(s) you're playing with fire so to speak.

Yet alone the 600+ you're wishfully thinking for.

I'm sure if you've begun dialogue with LMS regarding your available power adder options, they'll likely articulate why, in a much better manner than I, as to your preliminary lofty aspirations.




Not to rain on your parade by any means.

Tune + plugs + thermostat + 3-bar map sensor + exhaust + ATP turbos should be the upgrade progression for the engine.  Allow room in your budget for suspension & brake upgrades as well.

Meth injection can be added anytime in the process, but you MUST be running a tune for it, and it is your responsibility to make sure the reservoir is kept topped off. 

Tuners can change your tune depending on how aggressive you want to get.  There ARE tuning devices out there that allow you to switch tunes on the fly, but currently, you have to manually switch tunes with either the MyCal (Livernois) or the SCT (Unleashed) at this time.  Not a big deal once you have done this a couple of times.  Build in time/money for dyno-testing and/or datalogging.

If you add the ATP turbos, I would strongly consider adding the hotpipes as well to eliminate the possibility of boost leaks in that area.

No CAI has yet been proven to provide any benefit over stock in the SHO/MKS.  A freer flowing air filter and/or dropping the airbox further into the fender area for coldest possible air & IAT is, so far, the best you can do.  No data on the Windstorm CAI; BiGMaC will provide data when his custom CAI will be available to test.  You can talk to ReveXtreme (RX) about their chiller kit for the intake that purportedly can drop IATs by 60 degrees F by running off the A/C compressor with very little load on the engine.  Methanol injection also cools the intake charge significantly, tho not sure exactly how much.

There are definitely benefits to the colder thermostats, especially if you live in hotter climes, idle for longer periods, or go WOT often,  How much do you need?  170 might be fine, or 160 might be better, don't know.  This is an area of some "heated" discussion.

Finally, the topic of fueling.  How much can the stock system support?  Since you have a 2010, you may run into limitations there.  Again, dyno and/or datalogging are your friends here.  If you find that fueling is your limitation, you can add the custom in-tank fuel pumps & the custom port injection manifold from EBPP.  But likely, you will be looking at your transmission behavior by that time in the power curve.

Quote from: TaurusBuilder on April 27, 2014, 08:54:45 PM
All your ideas are great. But there can only be 1 super sleeper MKS. Lol.

TaurusBuilder speaks the truth... and that 1 super sleeper MKS is mine. Well, maybe not yet, but it soon will be. I'm glad to see some other MKS guys modding these cars. On the used market, an MKS is a tremendous value.

I am the only one who can support your needs and it will require tunes from Torrie. You want to get to where you want to go only we can do it.
PM me so we can have a phone call to discuss what you need to do.

Yes... The ATP turbos are the ones your OP links to at EBPP

bpd points out 2 things that are important: 
the mods purported HP increases are not additive per se, and stress on drivetrains and engine internals creates a kind of Russian Roulette at high HP and torque (somewhere above 400-450)...commonly torque is higher than HP on these engines.... and this is the force that gets you moving quick, but also the force that wears and breaks things. 
LMS is developing and producing some 3.5 EB internals for this reason... Best talk to them for details as they are familiar with building this type of engine... Dan Millen has driven/built a couple of national champion Mustangs with sub 4 sec 1/8 mile runs. Anthony is very knowledgeable... You might also try to speak with Andy, the shop foreman, when your questions are more refined.... They all understand engineering stress limits.
BTW, one side benefit of meth injection is keeping your engine cleaner, especially the intake valves.. with GDI the fuel doesn't spray on the intake valves (as it does in port injection)... so the meth in the air stream can prolong maximum power benefits (since the valve flow better and close properly longer)

SHOdded points out something you'll definitely have to deal with... Allow some cash for this....fuel delivery. 
4DR developed a fuel delivery system (pumps/rails/ etc.) for this engine.  It is currently the only developed solution... It is available, as SHOdded points out, through EBPP (4DR's store).  The '10-'12s at high HP literally "run out of gas" due to drop in FRP (Fuel Rail Pressure).  This must be overcome or the ECU with literally shut you down to prevent burning pistons with too lean a mixture.  (our engines were designed for (and the EPA mandate) is and AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) of 14.7
4DR is extremely knowledgeable on fueling this engine... especially the '10-'12 models... Hope fully he will chime in.  You could PM him too.  He's a bit busy now with a fueling venture and is traveling a lot between Phx and Canada.... so don't get in a hurry.

The other things SHOdded points out are important especially suspension... PLUS allow $$ for racing tires and wheels... getting that balance between decreased weight and desired traction without wheel hop is a bit tricky and empiric.