Thanks Larry, you confirm what I've always thought...Aerospace 303 (discovered by wife) sold me after the first time I used it, because it does such an awesome job, and leaves the area used looking natural not shiney as all get out.  Also I'm surprised how many people aren't aware that the only leather is the seating surfaces, I know it's been that way since I got my F-150 back in 97 and was that way long before that time.  I've also thought if I had my seats redo, I would go with Katskin since they seem to make a quality product. In the F-150 I used a Roush kit for front and rear (I got it for $300.00-which was crazy cheap for full leather front and rear) but even that leather showed wear after a year on the driver's seat, on the left bottom panel from me sliding out of the truck because I'm short. Anyway, I appreciate your advice! Thanks!

Quote from: mjhpadi on April 25, 2014, 01:21:43 PM
Thanks Larry, you confirm what I've always thought...Aerospace 303 (discovered by wife) sold me after the first time I used it, because it does such an awesome job, and leaves the area used looking natural not shiney as all get out.  Also I'm surprised how many people aren't aware that the only leather is the seating surfaces, I know it's been that way since I got my F-150 back in 97 and was that way long before that time.  I've also thought if I had my seats redo, I would go with Katskin since they seem to make a quality product. In the F-150 I used a Roush kit for front and rear (I got it for $300.00-which was crazy cheap for full leather front and rear) but even that leather showed wear after a year on the driver's seat, on the left bottom panel from me sliding out of the truck because I'm short. Anyway, I appreciate your advice! Thanks!

Mark you might be interested to know that kits from Katzkin can be ordered in 3 levels (at least they used to be). The most common and popular and I'm sure the usual default is the standard mix of leather on the body contact seating areas and matching vinyl trim for perimeter and backs/sides. For a really pretty reasonable up charge you could have your kit made up using 100% leather. That's really great where the seat design has a flex cracking issue (most cars do). The leather holds up better to the repeated pinch bends than vinyl.  The cheapest and probably the least popular choice is an all vinyl upholstery. Weird how they all look the same. It's really hard to tell the difference just by feel.


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

Thanks, I didn't know that Katzkin had that many offerings. I know I changed the leather in my F-150, I did it by myself, and I kinda wish I would have had someone with more knowledge help, I think they could have done something with the padding, since the truck had over 100K miles, but I really didn't know much about the correct installation. Put locally the upholstery guy wanted $500.00 just to install the leathers, which I thought was a bit high since I was providing the leather.  Anyway, if I would do the SHO I would get it done professionally by someone who knows what the heck they are doing!

that what's great about internet forum's. you get a lot of junk or misleading info, but also valuable info from experts even though they are aged!!!!!!!!
larry, just hopped on the net & got me some 303 on the way. i always thought seats where all leather. i have not noticed anything in that area of seats but now will doing the leather & vinyl portions of seats using different products.
thanks again
mikev

Mike... on the 303... read the directions... you gotta rub it off too

Words of wisdom from the tomb, LOL

just thought about the console, is it vinyl or leather. mine looks fine but!!!

Quote from: mval on April 25, 2014, 04:59:02 PM
that what's great about internet forum's. you get a lot of junk or misleading info, but also valuable info from experts even though they are aged!!!!!!!!
larry, just hopped on the net & got me some 303 on the way. i always thought seats where all leather. i have not noticed anything in that area of seats but now will doing the leather & vinyl portions of seats using different products.
thanks again
mikev

Just make sure you are not putting something oily on the vinyl. Be suspicious. Much safer to not put anything on at all!!!  When you park outdoors in the summer try to vent somehow or find shade to keep inside heat to reasonable temps. Use 303 to minimize sun damage. If good quality material was used, you should not have to do much more than that. Better to omit than to add a harmful product. Remember they always say their product is good. 


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

Only thing I've put on my seats are the nozzle of the vaccum and a damp microfiber. Other thing is I'd have no idea what to use on the suede of my seats that wouldn't harm it.

I worry about the alcantra inserts in mine (the recycled plastic pop bottles) myself... but if I got full leather seats I had to have sueded steering wheel and shift handle.... i decided my hands would ruin those pretty quick

What do you think of periodically steam cleaning the seats, Larry, regardless of material involved?  Would that help keep the suppleness intact?

When I look on parts list it appears you can buy a new seat cushion for couple hundred bucks but would it match? I have same crack its for sure from the sharp edge and the getting in and out. Im thinking of placing felt or some sort of black fabric to the edge of the plastic.

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Tapatalk

Quote from: BiGMaC on April 25, 2014, 10:31:59 PM
I worry about the alcantra inserts in mine (the recycled plastic pop bottles) myself... but if I got full leather seats I had to have sueded steering wheel and shift handle.... i decided my hands would ruin those pretty quick

I don't know what would be good for that material. On the other hand it's probably indestructible.  You really don't have to do so much. Less is really more. A soft cloth dampened with a mild soap and water once in a while if needed. Spot clean as needed for stains.


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

Quote from: SHOdded on April 25, 2014, 11:10:45 PM
What do you think of periodically steam cleaning the seats, Larry, regardless of material involved?  Would that help keep the suppleness intact?

Do you have some really heavy dirt/soil to remove?  If not then it might be a little overkill. If it's an effort to prolong the lifespan....IDK. Sun is a killer. Heat buildup in the parked car is a killer. Body oil from body contact (arm on the armrest, oily hair on the headrest, etc.) should be periodically removed with soft cloth dampened with mild soap and water. Watch out for additives/treatments, they can hurt you.  No magic pro active treatment that I know of so best not to shoot oneself in the foot chasing one. The mfg. didn't give us materials designed to last for 20 years in normal use and you probably are not going to find something in a $15 dollar bottle that's going to magically extend that lifespan. My opinion only.  Based solely on observations of what I have seen around me over the years. Probably find plenty who disagree.

Kinda like if you wanted to live to be a hundred years old. Taking vitamins......probably not going to help much. Over the long haul if you don't eat junk and you don't start smoking ....just might give yourself the most years possible.


2010 Steel Blue Metallic, Fully Loaded, non PP, LMS 4+, K&N drop in, 170 T-stat, 3 bar MAP

Quote from: Larrylu on April 26, 2014, 12:28:34 AM

Quote from: SHOdded on April 25, 2014, 11:10:45 PM
What do you think of periodically steam cleaning the seats, Larry, regardless of material involved?  Would that help keep the suppleness intact?

Do you have some really heavy dirt/soil to remove?  If not then it might be a little overkill. If it's an effort to prolong the lifespan....IDK. Sun is a killer. Heat buildup in the parked car is a killer. Body oil from body contact (arm on the armrest, oily hair on the headrest, etc.) should be periodically removed with soft cloth dampened with mild soap and water. Watch out for additives/treatments, they can hurt you.  No magic pro active treatment that I know of so best not to shoot oneself in the foot chasing one. The mfg. didn't give us materials designed to last for 20 years in normal use and you probably are not going to find something in a $15 dollar bottle that's going to magically extend that lifespan. My opinion only.  Based solely on observations of what I have seen around me over the years. Probably find plenty who disagree.

Kinda like if you wanted to live to be a hundred years old. Taking vitamins......probably not going to help much. Over the long haul if you don't eat junk and you don't start smoking ....just might give yourself the most years possible.

My detail guy is after me to do the CarPro interior protection... kinda like CQuart finest for dash, seats, carpet, etc... I worry most about the inserts as I said.... Phx summer is inside car >250^o every day when it's out for more than 45-50 minutes mid-day..vaporizes all the liquids out of the leather/plastic/etc.... he thinks sealing it will prolong the life.... dunno 

But ... but ... it's a DRY heat   No possibility of solar-active ventilation, Tom?  They used to sell these devices you stick between the top of the window and frame to ventilate the interior.