It should be noted, that if you don't have access to lift, in order to work under the car, then you should have a properly rated floor jack that will lift our big pig of car into the air, and be sure to chock the wheels to prevent vehicle travel and ALWAYS use properly rated jack stands when working under your car.
Also, you should be careful to be working on as level of a surface as possible. This seems absolutely retarded for me to say, but I responded to a call a couple of months back where an adult male subject had been working under his sport utility vehicle, in his driveway (on an approx 5% grade, sloped towards the street) where this person ended up literally dying as result of his poor decision(s) to work on a sloped surface, chose not use stands, and chose not to properly chock the wheels.
Well, long story short, the vehicle rolled, landed on top of him, and crushed him to death. So for God's sake people, please exercise normally expected safety precautions when working on your vehicles for crying out loud
Other than that, the only other tools you will actually need for this mod are the following:
A good socket set, with small extension rods, along with specifically an 8mm socket
A flat head screwdriver
A utility knife
Replacement, Factory Spec'd Engine Coolant
Replacement Oil
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Once you've jacked up your car, or driven it up onto the lift.......
The 1st thing you'll need to do is remove the large plastic underbelly pan that covers the bottom of the engine bay area.
For those of you who've never removed this piece, there are four metal thumb twist type of tabs located essentially at each corner of the cover itself.
Unscrew them, and drop the cover out of the way.
Locate you factory installed Oil Filter Adaptor. It will be located towards the front of the car, 1/4 of the way up from the bottom of the engine. Remove the Oil Filter which is attached to it.
Then there are three hex bolts that fasten the factory Oil Filter Adaptor to the engine block itself. You will have to remove these three bolts so that the factory Oil Filter Adaptor can be removed entirely.
This is what you your factory Oil Filter Adaptor looks like once removed:
*retain the original three bolts used to mount this factory OFA to the engine block as you can reuse them on the new OFA yet to be installed*
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Once you've completely removed the factory installed OFA, you should see something like the following on the engine block:
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By the way, here's a close up image of the factory installed Oil Pressure Switch Assembly:
Again, I found out, that this part is optional, as the one I purchased is apparently the exact same one that is spec'd (or called for) in the 2013 PP SHO models, and is the exact same part. I listed this as optional, because I would suspect, depending on where any of you may be at as far as accrued mileage, you may opt to swap this part out just for the heck of it. But understand, it's not necessary to do so.
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Next up, would be to mount the new, replacement Oil Filter Adapter Assembly.
Place the new OFA into place, as pictured below, and then reuse the same three hex bolts retained from the previous step above, to mount it to the engine block.
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Next in line, go grab your the Auxiliary Oil Cooler Assembly, and place it over the newly mounted OFA.
(note that the new OFA is "double sided" in that it has gaskets on either side of it, that allow it not only mount to the engine block itself, but also allows it to properly "receive" the Oil Cooler Assembly as well.
It should look something like this:
I left the bolts out intentionally to show that it has not / was not completely tightened down.
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You will need to use a total of six (6) of the hex bolts you purchased in the parts list, in order to properly fasten / tighten down the Oil Cooler Assembly to the new OFA.
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Moving along, you will next need to remove BOTH the factory installed Upper, and Lower, Radiator Hose Assemblies.
Now I can report, that due to lack of room, removing these was a major PITA.
The Upper and Lower are connected mid way through, and these two parts "snap" together.
I have no suggestions, or hints, or w/e in order to explain how to remove these two hoses.
You'll see what I mean once ya'll get your hands in there and try to bend, twist, and manuever these out of place. Suggestions are welcome for any others that may come up with them as discovered.
It goes w/o saying that you will need something to capture the coolant that leaks out as a result of removing these hoses. So w/e you choose (i.e. household bucket, or a dedicated reservoir or tank, etc.).
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Now you'll have to go and grab your newly purchased Upper, and Lower Radiator Hose Assemblies.
You will notice that part of the new Lower Radiator Hose Assembly incorporates a hard plastic tube, that has a total of three 'T' fittings.
Two of these fittings are used inconjunction with the hose assemblies which will eventually run between the Auxiliary Oil Cooler Assembly, and this newly revised Lower Radiator Hose.
The third fitting, which does have a hose attached to it, would lead to the Auxiliary PTU Cooler, of which, I did NOT retro-fit at this time.
See / Refer to the image below:
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At this point, since the 3rd 'T' fitting is not utilized in this modification, you will want to take your utility knife and cut off the majority of that 3rd, unused hose line.
After cutting the hose down, insert your metal plug into the opening, and then place your metal hose clamp around the plug and tighten it down.
It should look something like the two pictures below:
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