Just finished Patrick's 2011 Flex Ecoboost install, and here is what we found:

The 2011-2014 will not be much different so this guide will help all, but the install will take app. 30-45 minutes if your handy. This syatem entirely reworks the PCV evacuation system as well eliminating the water/oil/unburnt fuel accumulation in the IC as well as trapping the oil and damaging compounds that are part of the blow-by crankcase vapors.

The system now will provide steady evacuation in both non-boost and boost operation unlike the OEM system that only evacuates at idle and part throttle non-boost operation eliminating the reason the crankcase fills with the water and unburnt fuel in the first place.

So, what we found righ away when we removed the throttle body and scoped the intake valves is this issue is just as bad as the F150's, and this vehicle with only 30k miles on it already has substantial intake valve coking, so we recommend he do a seafoam treatment (a manual cleaning is far better).  The intake charge pipe was soaked in oil as you can see from the pictures below, and so was the IM and throttle body. (Patrick is strapping it to the AWD dyno right now for some runs as well).

So, here is what we found when removing the throttle body:










We could dump oil right out of some of it.

We then snaked the boroscope into the front most ports we could access through the IM snout, and after several attempts where the lens got oil covered, we were able to see the valves. Here are a couple of pictures of the boroscope screen showing, but it is not a real clear picture:




To return the engine to it's efficiency it first had, a manual cleaning is really needed but an upper induction cleaning will help.

As I don't know how many photos per post fit, I will start a second post with the install procedure.

Catch can install:
Do not order Monster option, it will not fit!
Breather option is not required on the catch can for daily drivers

And now onto the install. The Flex is only different from the F150 by the engine being a longitudinal configuration, so fitment of the can for mounting was a bit more difficult, but we found a pretty ideal spot and draining will be through a drain hose that protrudes out the bottom so it can be accessed easily during oil changes, or simply by placing a cup under it and opening the 1/4 turn ball valve drain.



So to begin with, we remove the engine cover, and locate the tubes we will be removing.

The tube from the rear most cam cover that has a integrated checkvalve from the factory runs to the barb on the intake manifold snout right behind the TB:



Remove the tube and using a razor blade, carefully slit the hard plastic tube at the OEM barb so it will split and allow removal:


You can then use the included 5/8" short tube to attache the reducer bars to the OEM fitting so it snaps right back on:




Do the same with the front cam cover cleanside line:


Now we mount the can itself. Note the bracket is 2 piece, and is adjustable. We remove the single plastic fastener shown to open an existing hole to mount to:



Reaching up under the cowl you can place the bracket and fasten with the 1/4 20 x 1.5" bolt and nut:


Now connect each line as follows. The line from the rear cam cover will connect to the center of the catchcan (inlet) with no checkvalve.


One outer fitting from the can, with checkvalve flowing away from the can connects to the intake manifold vacuum barb.


The final outlet from the can connects to the T'd line from each inlet tube providing suction for evacuation while in boost operation.


And the final finished install looks almost factory:









Clean side install:
This part is a separate part use link to order - it is not included in the catch can price.
The ILE style cleanside spearator will then replace the oil fill cap and use the incuded vacuum cap to cap the barb on the cam cover, running the hose from the cleanside separator to the barb on the intake pipe the OEM line originally connected to:



You have now replaced the direct line that allows oil/water/fuel to enter the charge pipes and the IC. The cleanside separator will catch and return the oil caught during the momentary reversion when transitioning from non-boost to boost.


We then move to the suction source that provides evacuation during boost (note, the same source is used for the brake booster vacuum when in boost as well until later years when a aux vacuum pump is added):

We are going to drill into each inlet tube that feeds the turbos with a 3/8" drill bit (if cold temps, warm with a hair dryer). If the hole is to small to allow the barb to push in for a snug fit, ream it slightly. It also helps to add some RTV or similar sealant to the barb to ensure a good seal. Do not be concerned with any small plastic particles that may fall into the tube, these will pass harmlessly through:
The rear tube



and the front tube where we T into the secondary evac outlet on the can:

Very nice setup, I watched him drain the can on the F150 and it filled about a half a clear solo cup. Wasn't to thrilled to see how nasty the inside of my intake is at 36k. Very interested to see what it pulls from mine.  I swear the car ran better on my 30ish mile trip back home. Thank's again Mr. Tracy !!!

I am very interested in this product. But found the write up a bit unclear, perhaps a schematic diagram to illustrate the layout would be clearer.

As soon as Tracy let's me know pricing I can take orders.
If BigMac picks one up I can do a video for install as well.

Quote from: 4DRHTRD on March 01, 2014, 05:20:41 PM
As soon as Tracy let's me know pricing I can take orders.
If BigMac picks one up I can do a video for install as well.

I'll be in  line for sure ... count me in.

I am in for one as well. I assume because the motors are the same for SHO and the Flex that this will be the same on the SHO.

This will work on:
Ford
Flex
SHO
Explorer Sport

Lincoln
MKT
MKS

Does anyone know if the radiator support is the same height? The clearance to bottom of my hood is close

Quote from: 4DRHTRD on March 01, 2014, 05:20:41 PM
As soon as Tracy let's me know pricing I can take orders.
If BigMac picks one up I can do a video for install as well.

You know I want one... I'll have to work out a mod on the drain tracy showed.. but I'm definitely having one after I wiped the inside of my OEM hot side pipes today during the hotpipe install at 7K miles.  So now I have virgin pipes... wanna keep them that way.

Yeah, the drain is the only part I wouldn't be quite comfy with.  Needs to be secured properly and shielded from road debris.

The drain DOES NOT hang down all the time. He just pulled it down for the pic. it tucks up under the front shield very nicely. just reach up from bottom to pop it out. I would HIGHLY recommend getting one after seeing the crap inside my engine. I am really considering tearing my intake off and doing a manual cleaning. He showed me a bunch of heads in the shop that had nasty amounts of coking on valves. one had only 12k if i remember right.

This is a great mod to do with a set of Hot pipes. If only hot pipes were available for the Xsport... Hint hint


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If anyone wants more pics just yell I'll be more than happy to take some for you. Tracy actually seems genuinely concerned that the manufacturers take our money and don't address this issue, regardless if he's making anything off the cans or not!! Very, Very nice people.

Quote from: painterpatt on March 02, 2014, 08:57:43 AM
If anyone wants more pics just yell I'll be more than happy to take some for you. Tracy actually seems genuinely concerned that the manufacturers take our money and don't address this issue, regardless if he's making anything off the cans or not!! Very, Very nice people.

I wouldn't mind a pic or two of the can installed. His wright up was pretty good but dose not show the can actually installed in the engine bay. Also thanks for getting this done and helping us all in the community.