Completed the retrofit on my 2010 tonight. Cooler bolted in using a shared bolt with the acc unit and i drilled and tapped the bumper support for the passenger side. First thing, the MAJORITY of cooling is in the new thermostat assy. It opens at a much lower temp. I would see 220 before tooling around town, with just the new thermostat assy i was at a fairly constant 200 in the same driving fashion on the same day.

I noticed the trans was burning fluid after having my ptu replaced and the ford tech recommended a trans service even though i had just flushed it myself 25K ago using motorcraft mercon LV.

Onto the hard part.

The hoses do not fit with the acc unit as someone else had pointed out before. I had two options, make my own T to run them in parallel like Ford does or run them in series. I first took note of the cooler fluid pressures stock. 20psi on my flush machine. I cut into the rubber section of my stock cooler line assy and ran hose to the new cooler like ford had designed. Note: Ford runs the junction to the new cooler at the end of the T in their new line assy. This is designed this way to run the majority of fluid flow through the auxiliary cooler. I modified my line with this in note. No pressure drop noted. Temps now at ~180 running around town. For kicks, I yanked my bumper back off and ran the cooler in series with the stock condenser/cooler assy so the fluid came from the trans, through the stock cooler, then through the aux cooler. No pressure drop noted again. Biggest surprise here, dropped the fluid temp about another 10 degrees average.

This does involve modifying your stock line assy, a hacksaw, and a few feet of 1/2in oil cooler hose (do not use heater hose!)

Pics to follow. They're on my phone. Need to upload sometime tommorow after i get my head out from under my old diesel suburban again.

A significant value in this upgrade!  Q 4 u:  did you see any way to get the trans quickly up to operating temp after startup?  That has been a problem here in the sub-freezing temps in MD, and I imagine much more so further north, if you park in an unheated/outdoor space.

Looking forward to the pics

Unfortunately, unless there's some miraculous step I am unaware of.....

One of the by products of this mod (especially in those cold climate areas like mine) is that you'll have to drive a little longer, and a little slower / less aggressively, until your tranny temps do get up to operating temp(s).

An extremely minor inconvenience to have, given the astronomical benefits of running significantly cooler tranny temps during the warmer / Summer months.

I am curious how the OP got the cooler in there, given he states he has the ACC option.

Since I was the 1st to have performed this mod a few years back, and I have a non-ACC equipped SHO, my "How-To" tutorial never addressed the ACC option.

I think fellow EBPF member crash712us was the only one I was aware of, who had/has ACC and was attempting a work around for all you ACC equipped owners.

So really good to see someone else having stepped up in other words.

Interested to see the pics, and until then.......

Quote from: bpd1151 on February 05, 2014, 05:38:55 AM
Interested to see the pics, and until then.......

Me 2...   

Mike there was another member that pioneered a cooler install with ACC before me. I think over on the other forum.
But the purpose of thermostat is to close off the coolers until there needed and should cause any longer warm up times.


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I've actually done ALOT of playing around with the tranny cooler on this car only because its kinda a different realm when it comes to what i come from (Ford Fleet and diesel)

So anyway, the thermostat block's only role is to keep the fluid from becoming too cold. It opens at a earlier temp than the original unit that was on the car. But the trans comes up to temp just as before.

I ended up changing it back to a parallel design like how the powertrain engineers designed it. I am lucky to have a cool neighbor with a 2013 Taurus police interceptor (ecoboost also) and took a few readings with a infrared point and shoot and confirmed my suspicion. The front cooler gets the majority of fluid flow.

Pardon the ton of worm gear clamps. They are going to be replaced tommorow. I ordered a bag of crimp clamps. Only used the worm clamps since i was putzing around with different setups.



fifth time having this thing off... I'm getting quick at it lol

thats the problem

that hose set on the bottom left hits the radar unit.

cut the crimp off the hose set and extended them (will remake hoses with the stock fitting at the thermostat block tommorow)

Installed.

Basically stated. a acc owner only needs the cooler and thermostat assy, 5 ft of 1/2 trans cooler hose and 2 1/2in tee fittings. I actually cut into the metal line and flared it so i could clamp hose onto the cooler pipes where i needed to modify. Tommorow, i'm going to remake it all with just rubber hose to clean the install up a bit. Its really not difficult at all. I rememeber reading about your how to and i did a quick search but didnt see crash's final product. Posted to let other people know the cooler works just fine with acc.

and pardon the mess. havent been home much to clean up after putting a CRV back together.

Look'n good.

I'm sure the pics will help those with ACC visual what you've done.

I laughed a bit about you becoming proficient at the bumper cover removal.

Same here. I've done mine so many times now, that I've got it down to 12min......

Practically do it with my eyes closed. Crazy I tell 'ya.

Great job once again.

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It takes me about the same, but i rack the car so i can work at a good height. Call me spoiled lol