Then we pulled all the wiring through: **Note, there's extra wires pictured here due to us installing my gauges at the same time as this Meth Kit**
Mounted the power relay / junction: **Driver's side of engine compartment, near the fuse panel / box**
An important note when tying in this power relay..... we had a b*tch of a time trying to find a true "hot" source. You will want to tie into fuse #46 inside the fuse box found on the Driver's side of the car. This will provide power when the car is in start and run modes only, but NOT when in accessory mode.
See/Refer to this wiring schematic below:
Next up, was swapping out the OEM 2 bar Map sensor with the new 3 bar MapV sensor.
I initially made the dumb mistake of swapping out the incorrect sensor. There are 2 Map sensors, one "pre" which is located within the plastic throttle body / intake pipe. You DO NOT want to switch out this one.
The CORRECT sensor to swap out is the "post" sensor which is located directly a top the intake itself. See/Refer pic below:
Also, you will need to run one of the power wires from the relay / junction box to this new 3 bar MapV sensor. You will want to tap into Pin #1.
See/Refer pic below:
We then moved onto mounting the two (2) included plastic reservoirs.
1st, we pulled the pump unit off of the OEM tank and then had to drill a hole in the bottom of the included MEDIUM sized reservoir and mount the pump onto this reservoir. This will be used as the new / replacement windshield washer fluid tank.
We also had to drill a hole into the top of this exact same tank in order to mount the included low tank sensor.
It should be noted here that the bottom edges of the black cap located at the top of this MEDIUM sized tank needed to shaved down in order to be able to screw the cap down/shut, but it also needed to be able to "clear" the diameter of the low tank sensor installed next to it.
If you look closely, you'll see the jagged edges towards the bottom of the black cap.
One last hole had to be drilled opposite of the low tank sensor hole, where we installed a plastic, 90 degree elbow fitting in order to run the tubing from this point, to the smaller, included reservoir which me and Darrell have termed the "Remote Fill Tank".
Once the three holes were drilled, and all the fittings, pumps, sensors were mounted into the tank, it looked like this:
Next, we mounted this MEDIUM sized tank, above, and next to, what used to be the OEM washer fluid tank, but is now the on board Methanol Reservoir:
We also re-wired each low tank sensor, and essentially swapped them around. This way, the OEM "Low Washer Fluid" idiot light that is found within the factory instrument panel lights up when this new / replacement tank is low on washer fluid, and then alternatively, the low tank sensor on what is now the Meth Tank will illuminate the single stage, red LED that was supplied with the kit itself.
Sleek I must say.
Next up, we had to drill a single hole into the bottom of the included SMALLER "Remote Fill Tank".
Installed a straight, plastic fitting into this hole and then ran clear plastic tubing from the bottom of this SMALLER tank, to the 90 degree elbow located at the top of the MEDIUM sized tank:
Then we mounted the smaller tank behind the coolant overflow tank, and attached it to the outside metal part of the psgr side strut tower:
One of the last things we did was to drill two small holes into the bottom portions of the gauge pod, between each of the three gauges.
I chose this location quite honestly because I didn't really like the location where Darrell had his installed.
I installed the 2 stage LED on the left, between the Trans Temp Gauge (to the far left) and the Boost Gauge (middle). This is the LED light that illuminates RED when the Meth Pump is priming, and then GREEN when it's actually spraying.
The 2nd LED, which is a single stage light that only illuminates RED, I chose to install to the right, in between the Boost Gauge (middle) and the Pyrometer Gauge (to the far right). This LED only illuminates if the Meth Tank is running low:
That pretty much completes your install.
Alky Controls DOES include a full set of instructions with the kit, however we did end up having to call Julio over there to inquire about the power relay / junction box as even though that piece was included in the kit, there was nothing about installing it found anywhere within the instructions.
I chose to err on the side of safety and installed a fire extinguisher in the trunk of my SHO just as an added measure of safety:
And of course, you know it wouldn't be me, if I didn't openly advertise my latest mod, so I also chose to completely go against the grain of the "sleeper" motif by placing this verbage just underneath my 'TWIN TURBO' decals (thanks also to ClassicCars 'Ken' for doing this):
One final note, LMS strongly recommends using the following meth fuel.... it is VP Racing's M1 100% Methanol:
I typically purchase the 5 gal containers which run me $38 + tax from my local speed shop not too far from my home.
I hope for those of you sitting on the fence about this mod, really, REALLY consider purchasing a methanol injection kit and install same into your SHO.
Y'all thought that a tune alone wakes up your car.... ha! This mod alone turns your SHO into an entirely new beast! Bar none!
Hope the 2 hours plus I spent writing up this thread is also of some use to those of you looking to install these kits yourself, or for those of you who aren't necessarily within reasonable driving distance to LMS's facility in Michigan.
Any questions, or anything I might've missed, feel free to post up, or shoot me a PM, I'll do my best to answer each as it's presented.
Enjoy
Mike
