Quote from: 4DRHTRD on June 23, 2013, 03:18:38 PM

Quote from: crash712us on June 23, 2013, 03:16:57 PM
Looks like a fresh tear, could it be stock tubing isn't enough?

I'm heading down to the shop to make a new tube today, hopefully they have some tubing small enough to connect to the witty bitty baby turbos.

I think 110+ degrees out doesn't help, probably work where it's not so hot, I don't know what the Livernois big turbo guys have done to accommodate their higher boost.

Quote from: darreli on June 23, 2013, 08:14:33 PM
Hey Mike, as Crash stated, I had a similar issue. Mine appeared to be a little more dry rottted than yours but still similar in appearance. I ended up replacing it with a silicone hose.

Either of you look to see if Samco offers a silicone hose/tube that fits in this area (where the tear/failure was)?

They make pretty quality stuff.

If not, what are the measurements & I'll ask.

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Quote from: FaSSt9602 on June 24, 2013, 03:30:34 PM

Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on June 24, 2013, 03:02:01 PM

Quote from: watt-maker on June 24, 2013, 02:19:02 PM
Time to order some good quality silicon hoses and fab some aluminum/SS/or even just some painted steel tubing and ditch the plastic setup. I've seen a few 6.0L Ford diesels blow the factory plastic pipe.

Would there be a heat sink issue with metal tubing?  Would larger pipes from turbo to intercooler be of any benefit?

Not complete apples to apples,  but on my diesel truck I noticed (as many others have)  an increase in lag when increasing the charge pipes from the stock 3" to 3.5" like that of the Banks intercooler on my truck.  Many will run the larger Banks intercooler with reducers to keep the charge pipe diameter.

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That makes sense.  I have a Pontiac friend who was the lead contract metallurgical engineer on the EB Engine project a few years back.  He told me recently that the reason for the small exhaust manifolds is to create higher velocity to the turbos, spinning them up quicker.  Guess the same issue applies to the pressurized air.

For those who wonder why the 3.7 version isn't turbo'd, he said Ford tried that, and the stroke length caused failures as early as 100 mi.

Another interesting thing he told me is that he has again been given the lead position from his firm, to work with Ford on their revised 2015 EB engines.  He has seen the design changes and called them revolutionary....  Plan is to have boost at idle, making the EB 3.5 even more responsive.  Unfortunately couldn't detail any of this under his employment agreement.  He was very excited!

Quote from: FaSSt9602 on June 24, 2013, 03:30:34 PM

Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on June 24, 2013, 03:02:01 PM

Quote from: watt-maker on June 24, 2013, 02:19:02 PM
Time to order some good quality silicon hoses and fab some aluminum/SS/or even just some painted steel tubing and ditch the plastic setup. I've seen a few 6.0L Ford diesels blow the factory plastic pipe.

Would there be a heat sink issue with metal tubing?  Would larger pipes from turbo to intercooler be of any benefit?

Not complete apples to apples,  but on my diesel truck I noticed (as many others have)  an increase in lag when increasing the charge pipes from the stock 3" to 3.5" like that of the Banks intercooler on my truck.  Many will run the larger Banks intercooler with reducers to keep the charge pipe diameter.

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The good news for us is that we can probably shorten the intercooler path going to air/water setup, which means we can either run larger tubes and maintain factory charge volume, or keep the smaller tubes and increase throttle response from stock.

Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on June 24, 2013, 04:21:43 PMFor those who wonder why the 3.7 version isn't turbo'd, he said Ford tried that, and the stroke length caused failures as early as 100 mi.

So the 3.7 is a bored AND stroked version of the 3.5?  I thought the bore increase was the reason for the failures (walls too thin).  Forgive the noob Q, but how does the stroke increase translate into a failure?

Quote from: SHOdded on June 24, 2013, 05:12:02 PM

Quote from: EcoBrick Bob on June 24, 2013, 04:21:43 PMFor those who wonder why the 3.7 version isn't turbo'd, he said Ford tried that, and the stroke length caused failures as early as 100 mi.

So the 3.7 is a bored AND stroked version of the 3.5?  I thought the bore increase was the reason for the failures (walls too thin).  Forgive the noob Q, but how does the stroke increase translate into a failure?

Longer stroke puts the rods in a bad position for boost and they break, long rod motors and boost usually don't get along.

Could you drop in a stronger rotating assembly to compensate, or would the cylinder walls become the next weak point?

There is a fine line on the hot side that you have to walk.  You need to have enough back pressure to get the chargers spooled,  but keep it low enough not to send the heads sky high.  The waste gates help bleed off that pressure at higher rpms, but at the same time,  that is wasted energy.

The way to combat that is where I'm guessing your buddy was hinting at,  which would be to hang some variable geometry turbos on there which will allow the computer to control the size of the exhaust housing a/r by adjusting a set of fins in the turbine housing. Here is how it looks on my truck.   I went from a stock 58mm compressor to a 64.7mm wheel with almost zero change in lag...

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How much did this VG turbo cost, and how durable is it?

He intimated that the head design combined with turbo intake will move turbos almost to the heads. 

He also said he has seen the 2014 EB Pickup engine, but not sure if it will change much.  Big deal appears to be in 2015 for our cars.

His G8 has a Livernois 418 and  he is thinking about turbo'ing it.  Our phone contact came about because of my 09' G8 rattling sound coming from the bell housing. Know him from forums and at G8 Natl. Conv.

Hopefully G8 issue will be low tranny fluid. Checking tomorrow (GM 6 speed autos are very hard to get accurate fluid fills).  If that doesn't fix, the tranny and stall converter come out.  Only noticeable in park, and when engine is off throttle.

Just in case someone else upgrades their turbo you will need a 1.75 to 1.5" silicone reducer like this:
http://www.amazon.com/HPS-1-5-Reducer-Coupler-Silicone/dp/B004O9UXO6

You'll also need some new clamps due to the stock pipe has a plastic ring on the top part of the pipe and an attached clamp on the bottom.
I've attached some pictures of the before/after

I bought a smoke machine, didn't work at all but it was $29.99...
I am going to go pick up some parts and build a boost leak tester today. Just went into the garage and it's actually liveable in there right now.
Yay, fun times!

Sucks that it didnt work, makes me think you have a pipe thats split. Happy hunting

I just went and picked up:
1" of 1.75" hose for turbo inlets
2 1.5" PVC caps
Some misc compressor parts and fittings that I can put into one of the caps.
I need to find this leak so I can get some 11's and see some 500HP dyno's done.

I have a Mirror Machine to go with your Smoke Machine...  For sale cheap...

I also have a receipt for a Flex plate replacement, that every Flex owner needs.   

I am getting ready to head into the garage and pull off the stock intake tubing and try my contraption and see if I can hear a leak. YAY!
I pulled off some of the boost pipes and applied hair spray but I'm still down about 6psi.