I find it coincidental that the OP issues started right AFTER Having the windshield replaced! Dunno   Bad Seal perhaps!  water intrusion inside the PCM! 
TOL since your on your last limb that's all!  Z


https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8568.90.html

I am going to run a few test runs today.  I am back on stock.   i will probably have time to pull open the cowl today and pull the ecu plugs.

I had no idea the pcu is literally in the ''rain trough exposed to the weather at all times.'' .. what a genuinely stupid place to put it. I can SEE the ecu plugs with the hood up.. it must be soaking wet, cold constantly. 

Quote from: ZSHO on February 02, 2018, 09:01:49 PM
Here's the exact PCM you need! so best of luck and think we all need a Drink! LOL.    Z
Inspect the PCM for leaks,corrosion on harness connector and proceed from there!  Z

Engine Computer Programmed/Updated 2010 Ford Taurus AA5A-12A650-DF DJC5 3.5L

PCM--DJC5   - $217.49 + Free Shipping!

https://www.motorcraftservice.com/


https://www.ebay.com/itm/Engine-Computer-Programmed-Updated-2010-Ford-Taurus-AA5A-12A650-DF-DJC5-3-5L/352206668311?fits=Year%3A2010%7CMake%3AFord%7CModel%3ATaurus%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A3.5L&epid=18009197536&hash=item5201274217:g:Eo8AAOSwsYpaBhIV&vxp=mtr

Thank you sir.

Quote from: ZSHO on February 03, 2018, 09:49:22 AM
I find it coincidental that the OP issues started right AFTER Having the windshield replaced! Dunno   Bad Seal perhaps!  water intrusion inside the PCM! 
TOL since your on your last limb that's all!  Z


https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,8568.90.html

Anything is possible.. I need to complete my runs today stock and see if I feel anything.   the problem I am concerned with is in stock the system may not be 'stressed enough' to show the behavior which puts me back into buying random parts.

I am about 98% the Stock tune is not having the issue.   

made 3 runs today well into 4th gear 

1 run from last night (but not all the way through 3rd.)

I am not feeling it at all.  any anything i did feel is probably super crazy tinhat placebo at this point. 

I did not datalog it.  I didn't have it with me.

I cannot imagine this is ECU related.  it only seems to occur in higher performance modes, it should be a issue at all times..
I cannot think is is spark related either,  rpms are rpms.  if the spark was an issue it would be across the board at 6200 rpm
I cannot think it is ground related either,  same thing,  it would be a issue at all times.
it is not fuel related.  i ran 96+ octane with only slightly better results
I do not think it is knock/timing related.. knock sensor is working and at 96 octane we did not see any issues.
I do not think it is .. Fuel pressure is fine and always has been.



?Could be valves under much higher cylinder pressure?
?Could be something else non engine internal is not tolerating 15 pounds of boost.?


I cant explain the jitter on the logs,  it FEELS like a dramatic drop in power.  then it spikes back.  ?the wastegates are dumping rapidly? then closing off? maybe that IS the cause of the jitter..  this makes me want to run a high performance LOW boost tune. 

@AJP Have you ever built a High performance 13-pound tune?   The hand held on stock never shows more than 11 pounds.. i'm and curious what happens when someone builds a low boost high spark timing tune.

Sure have we can try

Would that be working around the problem? Lots of guys on here running 14+ PSI tunes without an issue.. not trying to be negative Nancy...

Maybe developing a mildly aggressive tune targeting 13psi to see maybe if its the tune parameters? dunno.. curious to see what happens.

Quote from: stealbluesho on February 05, 2018, 03:35:59 PM
Would that be working around the problem? Lots of guys on here running 14+ PSI tunes without an issue.. not trying to be negative Nancy...

Maybe developing a mildly aggressive tune targeting 13psi to see maybe if its the tune parameters? dunno.. curious to see what happens.

I agree that there are tons of others on the same firmware and platform,  but I am out of ideas besides really bad ones like valves.  And I have already replaced tons of hoses, the solenoid, fixed the overboost issue. 

If it is a physical issue i'm lost...

I had boost to spare and still do,  so its not a 'loss of boost',  the wastegates are not 100% closed or open.. its not overboosting..

/flumoxxed/

EDIT :: which puts me back to carrying forward some form of corruption on the SCT tuner.  sigh.  My last thought is maybe i will put rev-11 on.  Rev11 was a really *EARLY* good tune before I got aggressive with shift points, tq-management etc.

Quote from: AJP turbo on February 05, 2018, 03:32:59 PM
Sure have we can try

Let's do it.  92 octane pump gas, 13 pounds.  Can I ask a HUGE favor?  Lets build it from scratch and not based on modifying any of my previous files? 

I remember that around revision 13 we had some crazy issues with TQ management until we went clean-sheet on a tune.  Since the handheld is updated maybe this can help..

for S&G's I went back to build 11 of the tune.. ancient.  Much less pronounced, but still occurs... as soon as we get off of 15 pounds the issue drops in severity greatly.

What Oil should i be running.. ? I have been letting FORD replace the oil.

i know you may have covered this previously in the thread but did you pull all plugs and inspect? time to re-gap or replace maybe?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it was my car I'd be running 5w-30 even though you have a 2010 since oil pressure is a function of viscosity and you are probably getting the oil warm enough to make 5w-30 have a low enough viscosity to yield proper pressure..

I thought you were going to look at the ecu connectors? I'm kind of curious about that...and if you felt like spending money I'd love to see that replaced altogether

Quote from: AJP turbo on February 05, 2018, 08:42:46 PM
If it was my car I'd be running 5w-30 even though you have a 2010 since oil pressure is a function of viscosity and you are probably getting the oil warm enough to make 5w-30 have a low enough viscosity to yield proper pressure..

I thought you were going to look at the ecu connectors? I'm kind of curious about that...and if you felt like spending money I'd love to see that replaced altogether

Curious if replacing the ECU would yield a new strategy? Admittedly I don't know enough in how the PCMs play into it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Not yet, but with 0 misfires,  and the issue not occurring under stock makes me think they are fine.  There less than 10k miles old and less than 5k on meth

I will probably look at the front bank for giggles.. if they are hideously bad I will look at the rear bank

Quote from: stealbluesho on February 05, 2018, 08:44:18 PM

Quote from: AJP turbo on February 05, 2018, 08:42:46 PM
If it was my car I'd be running 5w-30 even though you have a 2010 since oil pressure is a function of viscosity and you are probably getting the oil warm enough to make 5w-30 have a low enough viscosity to yield proper pressure..

I thought you were going to look at the ecu connectors? I'm kind of curious about that...and if you felt like spending money I'd love to see that replaced altogether

Curious if replacing the ECU would yield a new strategy? Admittedly I don't know enough in how the PCMs play into it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well funny thing the ecu that z listed before had the original 4 digit tear sticker that shows in the tune when I open it for his and your old strategies...so I suspect once you install that ecu and the mechanic does the PMI or programmable module installation with ids it automatically updates it and you end up with the current calibrations which both of you run now

The reason I can't see it being tune related is I've looked over his tune compared to stock at least 5 times and have rebuilt it from ground up and I originally think his file was derived from steal blues since they were identical so it's easy for me to grab the items that I would universally apply and then tweak from that