Its towards the center Drivers side under the seal!  Z

I asked them to unplug/inspect and re-plug.  well see if that even gets done.   

Quote from: SHOdded on January 17, 2018, 01:45:55 PM

Right !?  I mean what a s*** show ... (no pun intended)

At a total loss for words right now, seriously.  But I tell ya, at times like these, it is good to have a trusted mechanic/troubleshooter handy.  I fondly remember Kevin Mahoney of ProTech Automotive.  I would hang around sometimes just to watch him work ... 

Quote from: SHOdded on January 17, 2018, 03:34:43 PM
At a total loss for words right now, seriously.  But I tell ya, at times like these, it is good to have a trusted mechanic/troubleshooter handy.  I fondly remember Kevin Mahoney of ProTech Automotive.  I would hang around sometimes just to watch him work ...

I kind of get their position on the ignition issue.  it is a wiring mess under the dash.   Even if it is installed by the previous ford dealer, chasing a bad ground, bus issue just sounds F##ing awful.  So I cant actually blame them directly for the length of the issue and the lack or progress....the previous Ford dealership in Canada who installed it .. oh hell yes.

As to LITERALLY seeing the 4 pounds of overboost resulting in massive spark and power cuts causing the lurching and acceleration backfire style behavior and NOT knowing what to do just because there are no code ... they are completely to blame for a severe lack of technical know-how.   It is disheartening to look a a lot FULL of TTv6 trucks and for them to have NO idea what a spark table even is, or what might cause sustained overboosting AFTER replacing multiple components.

Me : have you pulled the PCM to look at the connectors like i recommended yesterday?
Them : umm no

Me: Ok,  did you pull and bench the starter motor and solenoid?
Them : no, but we can

8 hours later ..

Them : so hey the starter is bad!  good call.  And the switch is bad when we put the new starter in.. /faceplam/

Me : So, can we pull the pcm now
them : well yeah maybe you have a good idea there too ..

ugh ...

Quote from: TopherSho on January 18, 2018, 01:13:15 PM
Me : have you pulled the PCM to look at the connectors like i recommended yesterday?
Them : umm no

Me: Ok,  did you pull and bench the starter motor and solenoid?
Them : no, but we can

8 hours later ..

Them : so hey the starter is bad!  good call.  And the switch is bad when we put the new starter in.. /faceplam/

Me : So, can we pull the pcm now
them : well yeah maybe you have a good idea there too ..

ugh ...

It sounds like there clueless on exactly how to pinpoint your issue and should be installing tires instead! 
I would try a Lincoln dealer if not already mentioned! Z

Progress I hope albeit through some seedy dark alleys ...

Quote from: ZSHO on January 18, 2018, 01:28:10 PM
It sounds like there clueless on exactly how to pinpoint your issue and should be installing tires instead! 

I would try a Lincoln dealer if not already mentioned! Z

ahem ... ''Ford and Lincoln dealership.''   

In some places the Ford and Lincoln dealers are separate establishments, not merged.  I know some on this board have found they got better service from purely Lincoln dealers.

Is there not any other Ford or Lincoln dealers anywhere around you?  With the history you have with this dealer, where I in your shoes, I would be driving right past them to the next closest dealer available.  More than worth the time and gas $.  Seriously you are hemoraging $ because they are clueless, honestly can't get much worse driving farther and giving it a shot.

crossing fingers for yah man, you have WAY more patience than I.

Quote from: lamrith on January 18, 2018, 04:23:14 PM
In some places the Ford and Lincoln dealers are separate establishments, not merged.  I know some on this board have found they got better service from purely Lincoln dealers.

Is there not any other Ford or Lincoln dealers anywhere around you?  With the history you have with this dealer, where I in your shoes, I would be driving right past them to the next closest dealer available.  More than worth the time and gas $.  Seriously you are hemoraging $ because they are clueless, honestly can't get much worse driving farther and giving it a shot.

crossing fingers for yah man, you have WAY more patience than I.

next nearest ford dealer is in Salem .. car would not start so i had no choice or tow it 60 minutes and make multiple trips back and forth

I totally get it Topher, been in your shoes.  IF you have more issues once it is on the road again, my honest recommendation would be to pay the flatbed/tow fee and take it elsewhere in the future.  It is better for your stress level and wallet.

I had to do that on the car I had before this SHO.  It was a Cadillac STSV, and they had a fuel pump recall.  I have a Caddy dealer 2 miles from my work.  I had heard enough horror stories from various local group members about that local dealer I did not take the car there, I drove 1hr north and took it to a well recommended dealer for the work and was able to sleep well at night knowing it was in good hands and they would get it handled.  Cost me fuel, cost me time off work to go up 2x during the work week, not to mention drive time itself, all $ and effort WELL spent imho.

Ok line up your "Told ya so's."  2800$ (AFTER warranty) in work, still overboosting and not safe to drive hard.

--replaced 2 of these : EB-3-BAR-MAP-AA5Z-9F479-B
--replaced these supposedly http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2956263&cc=144505 when we did the next part below
--replaced this "OEM BL3Z-9K378-A Turbocharger Bypass Solenoid
--replaced all the connected hoses to the above,  i inspected and they looked new at least on top.
--replaced both turbos

--still overboosts hard,  and then chokes the timing and all but backfires.

good news.
--well the front turbo was cooked.  the turbine had cracks and was a very dark color to the turbine metal.  so it was well on its way to grenade land.
--the control arm was so badly rusted,  they could not get it loose had to replace the whole unit.  how is that good news? .. well it sounds like a fail waiting to happen..
--1500$ of it was covered by warranty

I am out of ideas.  all i can determine in my VASTLY undertrained skills is this ::
-The waste gate is not opening on one of the snails or both.
-the waste gate is pressure operated, so the connecting hose is bad?  i do not think so its brand new.

-that leads back to the Turbocharger Bypass Solenoid switch,  which we have replaced..  any one have a diagram of what goes in and what goes out ?  there is a electrical lead,  how do i verify IT is working or has the correct voltage?  all i can do is trace back from there. which being me is tough as i am pretty electrical illiterate.

laptop is dead so i cannot scan for pids.  i have no idea id there are pids for the wastegates other than the duty cycle which if i recall us "assumed" since there are no electrical leads to the wastegates.

ideas... im about to give up,  put it to stock and sell it in 9 months..

crazy bummed

FYI if your new and don't want to read the whole thread : went racing,  had the best runs ever,  next morning it was ''backfiring'' at 5000+ rpm and practically stalling the car.  logged it  ..  turned out the back firing and massive surging was the spark going from 26-28'  to 0 instantly and over and over above 5000 rpm.  APJ saw i was overboosting by 4 pounds.  just under the ETC code limit.

edit : 928pm

idea..

Should i be able to safely test the two vacuum leading from the plastic ends (pic link below) going to the wastegates by gently sucking on them?  that negative pressure should stay and remain static yes?   if so then my issue is either the hot plug,  or the vacuum source on the left (the metal side)..is the vacuum source static?  does it vary?

http://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=231638127798&category=33742&pm=1&ds=0&t=1509129879000&ver=0

I have so many Diagrams and need to take a look for ya! 
There is also a 15 amp fuse inside the (BCB)
I would also perform a PCM Reset!  Z





! No longer available