I have a 2014 Taurus SHO, was tuned but is no longer that is getting the P0016 code (still has gapped plugs installed) Has anyone else seen this and if so what have you done to get it resolved besides taking it to a dealership? This is the second time that it has happened. (first time I cleared it and it was fine for over 2 weeks and almost 500 miles before reappearing.) Any help/insight is greatly appreciated.

I was wondering if you have high miles on your SHO ?
What are the gaps on your plugs now? I would make certain the plugs are preferably gapped at 0.035 especially in Stock Tune and then check to see if and how fast the code returns.
I would try removing the ground(negative)cable terminal for roughly 30 min!!
I was curious if there is a brief startup rattle when the car is cold? Z

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0016

Not high mileage, only about 58,000. I cant remember what the gap is, but it's what I had it at when it was tuned. (Detuned after having the fuel pump go twice in 20,000 miles) No startup rattles that I can hear at least... I was thinking of trying the crank relearn option on the sct x4 tuner... I emailed Torrie and he said it may be worth a shot?

Quote from: tlundjr on March 14, 2017, 07:52:52 PM
Not high mileage, only about 58,000. I cant remember what the gap is, but it's what I had it at when it was tuned. (Detuned after having the fuel pump go twice in 20,000 miles) No startup rattles that I can hear at least... I was thinking of trying the crank relearn option on the sct x4 tuner... I emailed Torrie and he said it may be worth a shot?

The NGK plugs are most likely gapped at 0.028 if tuned by Torrie.
Install some new Motorcraft SP-534 plugs gapped at 0.030 and proceed from there but glad there is no startup rattle.  Z

What oil and filter are you using?  I would check the cam pos sensor connector wiring to make sure there are no loose pins.  Bank 1, by firewall, and Bank 2, by radiator.

Quote from: ZSHO on March 14, 2017, 07:30:16 PM
I was wondering if you have high miles on your SHO ?
What are the gaps on your plugs now? I would make certain the plugs are preferably gapped at 0.035 especially in Stock Tune and then check to see if and how fast the code returns.
I would try removing the ground(negative)cable terminal for roughly 30 min!!
I was curious if there is a brief startup rattle when the car is cold? Z

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0016

Me too Z. I am planning to change the spark plugs. Should I go with new again or can I reuse the old ones?

Quote from: SHOdded on March 14, 2017, 10:28:09 PM
What oil and filter are you using?  I would check the cam pos sensor connector wiring to make sure there are no loose pins.  Bank 1, by firewall, and Bank 2, by radiator.

I am using Castrol Edge 5w30 and a K&N filter. Just changed it a few weeks ago before a trip to Charleston, SC. Can you post pics to help me find them?? lol I think I found them but i'm not sure.

I will dig up.a diagram, but they should be on the air box side of the engine.

In the meantime here is a tsb issued for the f150, but I sure hope that is not the issue.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,496.msg84215.html#msg84215

Worth bringing in to the dealer if still under the 5/60 powertrain warranty.

Quote from: SHOdded on March 14, 2017, 10:51:24 PM
I will dig up.a diagram, but they should be on the air box side of the engine.

In the meantime here is a tsb issued for the f150, but I sure hope that is not the issue.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,496.msg84215.html#msg84215

Worth bringing in to the dealer if still under the 5/60 powertrain warranty.

Is this something that would be covered under the powertrain? I did buy it used if that makes any difference? I talked to the 2 ford service departments around here and they said that it probably wouldnt be covered under the warranty and that its $95 per half hour to diagnose what is wrong with the car... There is really no performance degradation, the only thing I have noticed is a slightly rougher idle than before.

Since idle is so tightly controlled in modern engines, rough idle at operating temps is definitely of concern.  Like I said it could just be a loose wire in the loom, has been a culprit before in the Gen 4.2 SHOs, so ...

Since the powertrain covers the engine, yes, it should be covered.  Those 2 dealers need to relearn the Ford Warranty Guide, starting on pg 10:
http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/brochures/14frdwa2e.pdf

Not that I am suggesting deception of any sort, but it might be a good time to consider getting an extended warranty from Ford also to cover you, I think, up to 149,000 miles in some instances.  I personally think it is good insurance, but others say to put away a little each month in case.  Definitely know what's available though before making that decision.

Quote from: tlundjr on March 14, 2017, 10:41:45 PM

Quote from: ZSHO on March 14, 2017, 07:30:16 PM
I was wondering if you have high miles on your SHO ?
What are the gaps on your plugs now? I would make certain the plugs are preferably gapped at 0.035 especially in Stock Tune and then check to see if and how fast the code returns.
I would try removing the ground(negative)cable terminal for roughly 30 min!!
I was curious if there is a brief startup rattle when the car is cold? Z

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0016

Me too Z. I am planning to change the spark plugs. Should I go with new again or can I reuse the old ones?

Quote from: SHOdded on March 14, 2017, 10:28:09 PM
What oil and filter are you using?  I would check the cam pos sensor connector wiring to make sure there are no loose pins.  Bank 1, by firewall, and Bank 2, by radiator.

I am using Castrol Edge 5w30 and a K&N filter. Just changed it a few weeks ago before a trip to Charleston, SC. Can you post pics to help me find them?? lol I think I found them but i'm not sure.

If those plugs are a step colder, you definitely need to swap back to the OEM heat range.

Quote from: SHOdded on March 14, 2017, 11:15:47 PM
Since idle is so tightly controlled in modern engines, rough idle at operating temps is definitely of concern.  Like I said it could just be a loose wire in the loom, has been a culprit before in the Gen 4.2 SHOs, so ...

Since the powertrain covers the engine, yes, it should be covered.  Those 2 dealers need to relearn the Ford Warranty Guide, starting on pg 10:
http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/general/pdf/brochures/14frdwa2e.pdf

Not that I am suggesting deception of any sort, but it might be a good time to consider getting an extended warranty from Ford also to cover you, I think, up to 149,000 miles in some instances.  I personally think it is good insurance, but others say to put away a little each month in case.  Definitely know what's available though before making that decision.

Thanks for that! I got the one by the radiator, but not the firewall, I will try to get that one tomorrow night. Would that powertrain warranty still apply to a CPO?

Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on March 14, 2017, 11:20:46 PM

Quote from: tlundjr on March 14, 2017, 10:41:45 PM

Quote from: ZSHO on March 14, 2017, 07:30:16 PM
I was wondering if you have high miles on your SHO ?
What are the gaps on your plugs now? I would make certain the plugs are preferably gapped at 0.035 especially in Stock Tune and then check to see if and how fast the code returns.
I would try removing the ground(negative)cable terminal for roughly 30 min!!
I was curious if there is a brief startup rattle when the car is cold? Z

https://www.obd-codes.com/p0016

Me too Z. I am planning to change the spark plugs. Should I go with new again or can I reuse the old ones?

Quote from: SHOdded on March 14, 2017, 10:28:09 PM
What oil and filter are you using?  I would check the cam pos sensor connector wiring to make sure there are no loose pins.  Bank 1, by firewall, and Bank 2, by radiator.

I am using Castrol Edge 5w30 and a K&N filter. Just changed it a few weeks ago before a trip to Charleston, SC. Can you post pics to help me find them?? lol I think I found them but i'm not sure.

If those plugs are a step colder, you definitely need to swap back to the OEM heat range.

They are NGK plugs so I think they are 1 stage colder than stock. Would that cause a rougher idle than normal? Im not sure what normal feels like anymore. I only had the car for about 4 months before I tuned it and changed the plugs, 3 bar and t-stat.

"Would that cause a rougher idle than normal"

http://nitroustech.com/spark-plug-specs/

It could because there may not be enough heat to get to their self cleaning temp and deposits won't burn off.

Once I put the new plugs in, should I re-flash the car with the stock tune? At this point would it be ok to clear the code?

As Z suggested previously, I would simply pull the neg batt cable for 30 min, and reconnect.  The PCM will relearn what it needs to.  As a rule, plugs shouldn't need that, but ya never know.

You will have to look to see on your sales contract what the warranty coverage on CPO for powertrain is, I think it is better than what you get with the new vehicle, but don't quote me on that.  At a minimum, 5/60.

Looks like 7/100 based on this document, if I am reading it correctly
http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/global/pdf/cpo/fcp96_3485013_l_ltdwrnty_r05.pdf
http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/global/pdf/cpo/ford_program_brochure.pdf

UPDATE: Changed the plugs to SP-534 gapped at .030 and also disconnected the negative terminal on the battery for about 1-2 hrs. Car ran fine for about a day then the code came back then I finally just bit the bullet and scheduled to have it looked at by the dealer. Upon dropping it off at the dealer the other night for my 7:35 am appt, I did not get a call until almost 4 pm. I'm thinking at this point they found out what was wrong and it was covered under warranty and were in the process of fixing it and everything will be good to go, but no, the tech then proceeded to tell me that the OIL in the car was so low that it was barely on the dipstick (LOL, which is BS because I checked it the night before I took it in) and that is what was causing my light to come on... So upon paying them $100.71 to tell me that, When I got home I did my due diligence and checked the oil, Which was at the correct level and ACTUALLY on the dip stick! (Imagine my surprise) But just in case I added 1 more quart. Drove fine to work yesterday and then upon leaving work, BOOM check engine light again, same code. I called the dealer and left a message basically saying that they didn't fix the issue and that this needs resolved immediately since I hadn't even had the car back for 24 hours and the light was back on. At this point if they come back and say that there is nothing else they can do unless I give them ANOTHER diagnostic fee, I'm not sure what else to do. (I did happen to find the window sticker from when I bought it and it is covered under 7/100,000 year/mile warranty.) Any and all ideas are welcome.