Quote from: 68_GT on March 02, 2017, 02:39:46 PM
I just talked to Tousley Ford and they say a new engine is $4600 discounted to $3,700 for the good guy discount. New engine is basically a long block. Apparently they don't have a fully dressed SHO replacement engine. Do those come from Ford Racing ? Maybe only for a F150. Would that work just need to use our upper intake ??

here is  a demo of the HFPF I think ??
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WdYDRXsG6Qc

F150 engine has a few differences, it is mounted longitudinal to start. F150 stock has 3 bar for both map sensors. F150 has a different HPFP as well. Intake system is different, different turbos, different intercooler.

10-12 SHO/Flex/XSport vs. 13+ have minimal differences that can be accounted for, but I do not think an F150 engine swap would be financially prudent.

Sounds decent for a long block price.  A short block is about 1400$ or so.  And the "knocking" sound isn't from the HPFP looks like, and indeed from the rear valve cover (middle) area.  Does the sound vary directly with RPM, and does it make a difference if the cover is on or not?  If the cover mutes it substantially, it is very likely top end noise in which case we are back to the lifter and possibly camshaft scenario.

As we know from bpd's build, a built block is good for at least 600 AWHP (with meth kit), well past daily driver levels for the trans. 500 AWHP or so is about the limit for the stock trans for DD duty.

seems to get a little louder when the engine cover is removed. The HPFP definitely is louder with the cover off.

any possibility this is an exhaust leak ?

took a video under the car too.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CD2rOY4yCY

under the car
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FqxDlArtrUw

There's no chance in the world an exhaust leak would ever make that noise.  That's a knock.

I still have my oil in the recycle container from my last oil change. I can't see any metal flakes in it. Wouldn't it look like it had glitter in it if it was a bad rod bearing ? I listened to other videos of rod knock and mine doesn't seem to have the same hollow knock sound ?

Very loud under car also.  Rod knock does not necessarily  leave traces in the oill.  Bearings may simply wear away over time.

That video at post #33 sounds exactly like this. And that video is labeled ecoboost rod knock
https://youtu.be/1F5Kl9DVN7I

To quote a comment from that link:

"Aaron Martin forgive me i don't remember which cylinder it was but it destroyed a piston and rod, new short block was installed under warranty ( truck only had 6000 miles on it), apparently through some internet research they had issues with injectors leaking and causing the problem although they did not replace any injectors with my repair."

Even though it is from an F150, the same principles apply.  Speculative mind you, how many times do we get to see the actual damage?  Too consumed with the bottom line.

DO you have any form of tuner/datalogging software? I want to know what your KR is at idle, etc. as that would indicate if stock knock sensors are picking up the knock that we hear in the videos.

I remember in shop class to find the cylinder that's knocking you remove the plug wires one at a time and listen. If the knock gets quieter when the wire is removed that's your bad cylinder. Removing the wire  stops the combustion pressure on that cylinder.
Not sure if you can still troubleshoot a di motor like that.

Quote from: glock-coma on March 03, 2017, 10:16:31 AM
I remember in shop class to find the cylinder that's knocking you remove the plug wires one at a time and listen. If the knock gets quieter when the wire is removed that's your bad cylinder. Removing the wire  stops the combustion pressure on that cylinder.
Not sure if you can still troubleshoot a di motor like that.

Wouldn't that cause the injector to continue to spray while not getting any spark?  Not sure I'd want to take that risk.  Might cause fuel damage to the cats.

Quote from: pmezo33 on March 03, 2017, 10:23:02 AM

Quote from: glock-coma on March 03, 2017, 10:16:31 AM
I remember in shop class to find the cylinder that's knocking you remove the plug wires one at a time and listen. If the knock gets quieter when the wire is removed that's your bad cylinder. Removing the wire  stops the combustion pressure on that cylinder.
Not sure if you can still troubleshoot a di motor like that.

Wouldn't that cause the injector to continue to spray while not getting any spark?  Not sure I'd want to take that risk.  Might cause fuel damage to the cats.

Plug wire is only disconnected for a few seconds.

I did that on every cylinder and the sound didn't change. Knock sound was the same without combustion.

Took my SHO to a mechanic who swears up and down it's not a rod knocking. He says it sounds like a collapsed lifter. So are these lifter solid or do they pump with oil pressure? Thinking it's either that or needs a shim somewhere ??

dang engine just blew.

official time of death 132,311.70 miles.

Engine fragments took out one of my bran new rear tires..... ugh

looks like a new longblock and upgraded turbos are in my near future, unless they'll blow up another stock longblock