I'm getting the intermittent low oil pressure light on my Flex now.  I was all excited that with the new PCV parts, catch can removed and new turbos, the engine wasn't consuming oil like crazy any more.  Two days ago when the engine was hot, the oil pressure light popped on intermittently at idle.  I went out yesterday and bought a BWD brand sensor and swapped it in but got the same issue after the engine heated up.

I stuck a mechanical gauge on there and drove it around with it sitting on the windshield.  Gauge generally reads 15 psi at idle and occasionally drops down to 12-13. 

Question is, is 12-13 psi too low?  Ford spec says minimum 30 psi at 1500 rpm, and I'm close to 40 psi at that point.  If this is normal, I was thinking of swapping in the Airtex/Wells PS406 EOP switch because that one's calibrated to close at 6 psi instead of 15 (I'm assuming 15 psi is the OEM spec given my results with the mechanical gauge, can't find the spec on those anywhere).  I'm also about to change the oil again to see if that helps bump that psi number up a little bit.  Was planning on doing that anyway because of the new turbos.

Any thoughts?

Changed the oil.  Reading went up to about 16-17 when hot, so not much change, but I'm guessing it won't trigger the light until I put some miles on it.

Seems OK to me after the OC.  What oil/filter are you using, did you put in the same stuff as before?  Could've been a faulty oil filter ADBV.

I was running the Motorcraft FL500S and I put the cheap Supertech full synthetic in there because I didn't want to be flushing expensive Mobil 1 down the drain if it kept eating oil.  Might have been the issue here causing low oil pressure with the cheap oil.  Seems like it's not consuming oil any more though, so I was planning to go back to the Mobil 1, but Walmart was out of 5w-30.  I bought the Pennzoil full synthetic high mileage instead, and stayed with the FL500S filter.  Hoping it's not diluting the oil with fuel or coolant because the level isn't dropping now.

Best you can do is keep an eye on it, and not worry too much   If the turbo piping and CAC are staying clean that would add a measure of security.  At some point you might want to do a compression check also.

How's vacuum by the oil dip stick? Z

Did a compression check when I replaced the turbos.  Wasn't super alarming at first.  150's across the board except a 180 on one cylinder.  180 wet test in all cylinders.  Problem is, blow by is still bad enough that when I had the catch can on with that check valve, it was pressurizing the crank case at idle and blowing smoke out the exhaust at higher rpm.  Returned to stock PCV and that stopped.  Just did the dip stick check now per ZSHO and it is not drawing a vacuum there.  Plugged up the clean side PCV during, still no vacuum at the dipstick tube.  Turbos are still blowing a little oil, just not enough to smoke (all oil passages in and out are immaculate).  I think I need a new motor very soon, especially now with the low oil pressure issue.

I heard somewhere that a 13+ motor can be swapped into a 10-12 without any modifications, just that some parts off my motor would need to be swapped onto it.  Can anyone verify this? 

The 10-12 motors are like unicorns.  Local shop wants 6k+ to swap in a used one, he's a rebuilder and says he can't even get a kit to do this motor.  About 2/3 of that cost is the motor itself.  Dealer wants about 1500 more to do a new one with fresh everything, so I'll probably go with them if I get backed into that corner.  Don't have time to swap this motor myself though because my wife is due in the next few weeks, and I really need this car to be working right now.  I see used low mile 13+ motors on eBay all day for less than 2 grand.  Would be nice if one of those would work then I could find someone more competitive on labor to drop it in there.

bamsho had at one point listed the parts needing to be swapped.  Hope he chimes in!  Cam & crank sensors, IIRC.

This is the thread I reference:
http://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/2010-to-2015-sho-engine-swap.131474/#post-1443882

My 2011 just seized with 62,000 miles.  Thank God we bought the extended warranty.  Big problem is  "unicorn factor" of those engines.   I have a suspicion that the reason why they are scarce is that a lot of the 2011's self destructed.

I'm getting that impression too Jimmyb.  Thanks for that link SHOdded.  I hope bamsho chimes in too because the OP in that thread never went through with the swap.  Don't know how it would've gone.

Okay, so I'm waiting on some info from people over at shoforum but I did some research on my own that I think it confirms what BamSHO said in his post originally.  I looked up the part numbers on fordpartsgiant for the cam sensors, crank sensors and the heads for 10-14, because apparently the only thing major that's changed physically with these motors over the years between 10-15 is the heads, timing chains and gears, and the crank and cam sensors.  Site wouldn't give me parts info for 2015 model year, so I don't know what the PN's did after that.  Here are the part numbers:

Cylinder Heads
2010-11 MY AA5Z-6049-C (passenger) and AA5Z-6049-D (driver) 07/2009-12/2010
2011-14 MY AA5Z-6049-E (passenger, replaced by AA5Z-6049-G) and AA5Z-6049-F (driver) 12/2010-

Cam Sensors
2010-12 MY AT4Z-6B288-A 05/2008-
2013-14 MY BL3Z-6B288-A 02/2012-

Crank Sensor
2010-12 MY AA5Z-6C315-A
2013-14 MY BL3Z-6C315-A

Short Block
2010 MY AA5Z-6009-A
2010-14 MY AA5Z-6009-B

So it looks like even though they changed the heads halfway through the 2011 model year (mine current ones are the early ones because build date is before 12/2010), they continued to use the same cam sensors on the new heads, and the crank sensors stayed the same as well until they went to the 3-wire setup for 2013 models, but the heads themselves didn't change.  Short blocks are the same from 10-14 (except they show two for the 2010 MY, but earlier PN is obsolete, therefore interchangeable).  This seems to confirm what he's staying, so I think it's a go.  Now I just need to wait until I get my oil analysis back to be sure the low pressure isn't just from fuel or coolant in the oil.

Had a new problem pop up today.  Was driving to the grocery store, taking it easy of course, and I stopped at a light.  Engine began to misfire really bad and CEL started to flash.  I had FORscan hooked up and running when this happened (I've been monitoring for the past week) and it showed a -2 on cylinder 4 for misfire and I could see intermittent -1 on cylinders 1 and 2, but nothing steady.  I was half a block from the store, so I drove it there and went shopping.  Came back out and started the car to see if maybe I had a fouled plug that had dried out enough to fire.  Engine cranked for a while without firing then finally caught.  CEL was now on constant with continuing misfire but misfires slowly began to smooth out and disappeared.  Decided to drive it home then, seemed to be running smooth.

Got home and found the following codes when I had a chance to look at them all. 
-P00C2, Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve B Control Circuit High (not sure if this relates, but it's been there since I put the new turbos on, and doesn't seem to effect BOV function)
-P00C6, Fuel Rail Pressure Too Low - Engine Cranking (thinking this might have been a lingering issue that finally threw a code, maybe diluting oil with fuel from a leaking injector)
-P0150, O2 Circuit (Bank 2, Sensor 1) -Previously set DTC - Not Present at time of Request (probably caused by dead Cylinder #4
-P0304 - Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected (this is self-explanatory)
-P0316 - Misfire Detected On Startup (First 1000 Revolutions) (this is probably from the previous startup at the store.  It missed for a little while after it caught then it smoothed out after about 10 seconds of running)

I also pulled the plug on cylinder 4 to read it.  It looked okay.  It was a little on the light colored side, so I'm thinking lean condition, but definitely no signs of fouling.  Maybe cylinder 4 injector is failing, leaking down when the engine is off causing my oil to dilute, which maybe cause the low oil pressure condition too?

Anything else I should look at in the fuel system that would cause the initial cranking fuel rail pressure to be low like this along with this type of misfire?

Just figured out I can data log what my sensors are doing on FORscan.  If I've can be logging the next time this happens, which PID's should I include, or should I just do a huge data dump and include them all?

http://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/2010-to-2015-sho-engine-swap.131474/page-2#post-1467785

QuoteGot a few tidbits. We have good memories, but sometimes, their short:

They changed cylinder heads mid 2011 model year (along with timing gear), but they kept running the same everything else, including the bottom end, as short block stays same throughout (except for early 2010 PN that is obsolete). Cam and crank sensors didn't change until 2013 MY, so all of those sensors should interchange with all year heads and bottom end, because they kept the heads the same when they went to the new sensors.

I do remember there was a small program for 13 MY on the GTDI but don't rely on my memory for the full details. The cam cover change from aluminum to plastic was a running change 15MY action. The plastic covers needed an extra boss in the cylinder heads so the cyl heads changed, but aluminum covers can be fitted to either level of cylinder head. There were also changes to the cam sensors and I believe the crank sensor too. The crank sensor also had a corresponding change to an HDR wheel with more teeth (Made common with TiDI). The sensors fit in the same sized boss in the cyl heads and rear seal retainer so can be interchanged but of course the correct wire harness and PCM need to be used to match the sensors. The 13MY wire harness and PCM had numerous small changes as well. I recall there were changes in the oil pan to improve oil surge performance on the 2013MY but externally the oil pans will look and fit the same. Another action taken around that time was to move from fabricated exhaust manifolds to cast ones. The cast ones required a different calibration to over fuel the engine under extended periods of high load to prevent the cast manifolds going over temp and cracking. I would stick with the fabricated manifolds if you have them.

The only GTDI engines with oil coolers are the police spec engines and the SHO ordered with the "track pack". The cooler used is an oil to coolant type that tees into the coolant supply, there's no oil to air heat exchanger that will interfere with the ACC at the front of the car. You are correct the cooler could bolt on to any SHO but the correct coolant hoses and OFA would also be required.

If the owner is reasonably handy and swaps over the ancillaries from the failed 11MY engine to the 2013 I think it ought to work. But my memory comes with no guarantees. I imagine 2013 engines are easier to find as by 2013 the engine was being used in the explorer sport and the volumes had increased significantly.

http://shoforum.com/index.php?threads/2010-to-2015-sho-engine-swap.131474/page-2#post-1467791

QuoteThe HDR wheel in assembly is on the flywheel end, used to spin the motor. We add and remove it in the engine plant. I'm not sure what happens to this area in body and assembly, but the HDR changed on the SHO in 2015 to same one the f150 uses. I believe if you use your flywheel, and all components distal to it on the transmission side, you will be fine.

Responses by shoblock on shoforum

Quote from: RandR10 on February 13, 2017, 10:23:54 PM
Just figured out I can data log what my sensors are doing on FORscan.  If I've can be logging the next time this happens, which PID's should I include, or should I just do a huge data dump and include them all?

Look at one of StealBlue's SCT logs, and attempt to duplicate in Forscan.  Probably the easiest way to go.
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,7437.msg113188.html#msg113188