- Warm it up (PCM and Connector) to melt out the junk
- tiny bit of WD on the PCM pins. Wipe out excess (careful not to bend anything!)
-blow out with low pressure air
-WD and toothbrush on the face of your connector and into the pin holes. Clean it out good.
- check your connector seal. Is it damaged, out of place, or missing? If so, replace.
- apply some dielectric grease around the connector seal and the inside mating surface of the plastic PCM receptacle to keep additional water out.

EDIT: was in the process of typing this when you replied that it wasn't ice. 


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Definitely check your connector seals. Either the big seal around the body of the connector is bad, or the wire seals (where they enter the back of the connector) could be bad/missing?


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Quote from: MiWiAu on January 07, 2017, 02:55:08 PM
Definitely check your connector seals. Either the big seal around the body of the connector is bad, or the wire seals (where they enter the back of the connector) could be bad/missing?


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I lied. You were absolutely right. It's ice.

Yikes. I think you said the PCM had already been replaced? If so, did a dealer do the work?

I'd be bitching up a storm to them before trying to resolve this myself, if someone else did the work...


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Quote from: MiWiAu on January 07, 2017, 03:04:51 PM
Yikes. I think you said the PCM had already been replaced? If so, did a dealer do the work?

I'd be bitching up a storm to them before trying to resolve this myself, if someone else did the work...


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If I clean and replace and problem persist I will and yes, Ford replaced it at a cost of $1800. Smh

Quote from: Flexthis2011EB on January 07, 2017, 03:08:19 PM

If I clean and replace and problem persist I will and yes, Ford replaced it at a cost of $1800. Smh

Just my opinion, but once you clean up the "evidence" what's to keep them from challenging that you just found those pictures on the interwebs? Hopefully they'd be cool, but...

The work should be covered under warranty, and there's no telling what damage the ice may have done if it migrated to the internals of the PCM or connector pins. Those connector pins are pretty delicate, and that freezing water could have done some damage that you can't see (think soda can you forgot to take out of the freezer and split wide open).


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Well even after me attempting to clean it there is still a significant amount of what looks like burning and rust/corrosion. They can't argue that. Aarrrggggghhhh. Well, once again, u guys were more than helpful! Seriously. I thank all of you who helped. I think it's safe to say I have found the problem I have been chasing for months.

Wow... talk about a smoking gun.

Great. Now a pin broke off the ecm. Can I solder back on?

Quote from: Flexthis2011EB on January 07, 2017, 03:55:46 PM
Great. Now a pin broke off the ecm. Can I solder back on?

You may be able to, but that would just prove to a service writer that you opened it up, and that would void any warranty that they gave, AFAIK.

While it is a bit shady, IMO, I would put it back as is. Remove all evidence that you did anything to it.

Then you have two options:
1. try and start the car, risking damage due to the broken pin to who knows what, and drive it there and tell them about the other issues and ask that they re-inspect their work. They open it, see broken pin, whoops must have broke due to them...etc.

2. Have it towed, tell them about the other issues and ask that they re-inspect their work. They open it, see broken pin, whoops must have broke due to them...etc.

Quote from: Flexthis2011EB on January 07, 2017, 03:55:46 PM
Great. Now a pin broke off the ecm. Can I solder back on?

Unlikely, pin alignment has to be pretty precise to get it to reassemble. I'd stop now and play dumb about the broken pin or you could say you took it apart and show them the pictures. Another PCM replacement was probably likely anyways.

If you can identify the pin location, someone here might be able to tell you its function.


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Edit.
Pin Number Description Fuse Wire Color
1 B+ Feed #1 (20A) IP #2 GY-RD
2 Steering Wheel Switch #1 Output
(1A) Grnd
GNRL Function Module GY-BN
3 Steering Wheel Switch #2 Output
(1A) Grnd
GNRL Function Module WH-VT
4 Steering Wheel Switch #3 Output
(1A) Grnd
GNRL Function Module GN-BN
5 Steering Wheel Switch #4 Output
(1A) Grnd
GNRL Function Module YE-GY
6 Start (2A) BJB #95 BN-BU
7 Run/Start #1 (20A) BJB #73 WH-BN
8 B+ Feed #2 (20A) IP #32 BU-RD
9 Vehicle Speed Output (VSS) PCM VT-OG
10 Delay Accessory (15A) IP #17 GN-VT
11 B+ Feed #2 (15A) IP #5 YE-RD
12 Park Detect Signal
(Transmission)
Sifter GRND GN
13 Driver Door Ajar Signal IP #9 GRND GN-VT
14 Run/Start #2 (20A) IP #74 VT-BN

Quote from: ZSHO on January 07, 2017, 06:33:25 PM
It looks to be a 14 Pin-way connector simular to below and dont think the car will start IMO.  Z

Hmm, 14 pin connector? Are we looking at the same photo?

In post 13, check out the picture of the ECM receptacle. In the upper left, the pin ID is 201. The pin count on the top two rows alone is 32.

Flex, numbers molded into the plastic ECM housing help identify your pins. For example, on the top row the far left pin is 201, the far right pin is 217. To determine the pin ID of your broken pin, just start at the pertinent row of pins with the pin ID on the left and count up.

Way ahead of y'all. Brought it to Ford, they called me 30 minutes ago saying tampering was to blame. Marks on the ecm bolts as they used new ones, like u wouldn't mark them tightening them down?! And they can see an ecu has been unplugged? Also I told them i checked it. Said I must have pulled to hard. What the hell ever. My only option now is to open up the ecm, check for internal damage, and resolder from inside running wires to back off connector. Feels like jumping out a plane with no chute. So wish me luck!!

Hey Flex,
Just had a thought. Any chance your first fried PCM was caused by water ingression? If so, that might point to a harness/connector sealing issue that you'd want to make sure is resolved before a possible third PCM.


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