Haven't had the opportunity to drive the car hard since picking it up but i can tell that stopping isn't as aggressive as before. Pads/rotors probably need to be broken in some more anyway.

sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

Quote from: slurppie on December 17, 2016, 10:50:44 AM
Haven't had the opportunity to drive the car hard since picking it up but i can tell that stopping isn't as aggressive as before. Pads/rotors probably need to be broken in some more anyway.

sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

EBC recommends easy braking for the first 1000 mi with new rotors, then going through pad bedding.

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/



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The brake pads for the PP appear to be the same though.  Z      http://www.fordpartsgiant.com/parts/ford-kit-brake-lining_dg1z-2001-e.html?Vin=1FAHP2KT5DG183206&Filter=()&Location=front-brake-discs-and-calipers,,2001

Part No.   DG1Z-2001-E
Part Description   KIT - BRAKE LINING
Replaced By   DG1Z-2001-F

Quote from: MiWiAu on December 17, 2016, 10:56:23 AM

Quote from: slurppie on December 17, 2016, 10:50:44 AM
Haven't had the opportunity to drive the car hard since picking it up but i can tell that stopping isn't as aggressive as before. Pads/rotors probably need to be broken in some more anyway.

sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

EBC recommends easy braking for the first 1000 mi with new rotors, then going through pad bedding.

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/



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What, I can't hammer the brakes from a warp speed run?

sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

Quote from: slurppie on December 17, 2016, 11:21:02 AM

Quote from: MiWiAu on December 17, 2016, 10:56:23 AM

Quote from: slurppie on December 17, 2016, 10:50:44 AM
Haven't had the opportunity to drive the car hard since picking it up but i can tell that stopping isn't as aggressive as before. Pads/rotors probably need to be broken in some more anyway.

sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

EBC recommends easy braking for the first 1000 mi with new rotors, then going through pad bedding.

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/bedding-in/



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What, I can't hammer the brakes from a warp speed run?

sent from my speak n' spell using tin cans and string

Hahn made his last landing approach at light speed, but I bet the Falcon needed new brakes after. That's Chewy's problem now, though. #RIPHahnandMilleniumFalconBrakes


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I put mine on then went to the track that night, couple hard slow downs had them smokin.. they work really good.. I think pounding them at the track actually helped, these were advance auto replacements with the gold pads I believe.


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I had my rotors and pads replaced under warranty at roughly 22k on her and would say the average break in period would be around 500 miles..
I also noticed a bluish/purple tint on the rotors which was a sign that it was time to play again,lol. Z

2013 PP sho just had rear pads replaced. Motorcraft BRF-1383 DG1Z-2200-b brake kit
pads say PFC-42EF B16 DG13-2219 BC INR APNIK P33SA

I googled the PFC-42EF, it is a PFC brake pad, carbon metallic, semi race, 42EF is the pad compound.
Bedding New Performance Friction Brake Pads

Motorsport

If the discs were previously being used with Performance Friction pads, then the bedding procedure will be achieved quickly with new PFC pads.  If the discs were previously bedded using a different manufacturer's pads then the process will take slightly longer.  Again, with brake cooling ducts open and fully functional, perform the following procedures.

On the first lap, perform several snubs with progressively higher pedal pressure and braking force and from higher speeds.  You will feel the effectiveness of the brakes increase with each successive brake application.  This should take 6 to 10 snubs per lap and is usually completed in one or two laps.  If non-PFC friction materials were previously run on the discs then this procedure could take as many as three to five laps.  This is because the non-PFC friction material transfer layer must first be cleaned from the disc and then a fresh layer must be imparted to the disc.
Running additional laps is the best way to accomplish the new transfer layer and, due to the higher surface temperatures, will assure a complete removal of the old friction materials from the disc.  Braking effectiveness should be excellent at this point and the car can be driven normally.
NOTE:  Sanding/machine grinding the discs will not decrease the bedding time.  Whenever new Performance Friction pads are installed, the pads require very little cool down time.  Usually the time spent taking tyre temperatures and a debriefing with the driver is sufficient.

Great info!  Always did love the PF pads on my SHO.

I'll drop this in the original post as well but the dealership got back to me and confirmed that p# DG1Z*1125-C is old and has been revised with GG1Z*1125-A and noted with "will no longer have inner slots".

Also, after the last visit with the dealer not performing the recall and them blowing off my ongoing issue with the PTU puking it's guts out the vent cap, I called Ford up who ended up opening up a claim. This morning I received a nice email from the dealership apologizing and advising that they will be replacing the PTU instead of the vent cap as originally planned as well as the FDM.

It looks to appear that the earlier build my2016 have the the rotors with the inner slots and the later build my2016 have the new updated plain rotors but glad to hear there is some progress being made with the recall and PTU to make your holidays that much brighter and lets not forget to put this dealer on the naughty list. Z   

Quote from: ZSHO on December 21, 2016, 03:07:36 PM
It looks to appear that the earlier build my2016 have the the rotors with the inner slots and the later build my2016 have the new updated plain rotors but glad to hear there is some progress being made with the recall and PTU to make your holidays that much brighter and lets not forget to put this dealer on the naughty list. Z   

I wonder why Ford moved away from the inner rotor slots? Not needed because their not seeing any rotor warping or just cheaper with no slots?

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I saw a picture of the 2018 Mustang on Leftlanenews and from the crappy picture they took of the front wheel, it looks to be using a rotor of similar design. From a production standpoint I would think that one part # used amongst several vehicles is better/cheaper.

Quote from: slurppie on December 21, 2016, 05:02:53 PM
I saw a picture of the 2018 Mustang on Leftlanenews and from the crappy picture they took of the front wheel, it looks to be using a rotor of similar design. From a production standpoint I would think that one part # used amongst several vehicles is better/cheaper.

More than likely the case. The bolt pattern is the same as well, as most already know!