Hello,
Ok guys I do not know what I need to fix but I keep loosing traction when I launch and have to let off gas for a second or two, very annoying! My tires are still very good, I do have stock suspension and almost have 50,000miles. It's a 2011 SHO PP. Please any suggestions would be thankful.
It could be related to your front suspension. Z
I would check the front strut assembly.
It is the front suspension. But nothing fills wrong still handles great not sitting any lower in the front, no noises. My ass end dips down and my front raises and then I loose traction and I tac out a couple times if I don't release the gas. If need stiffer suspension what would be the best option with little to no issues?
It is recommended to replace suspension related components such as shocks/struts every 50k, and your post indicates you are at that threshold in mileage. Beyond that, a complete inspection of other related components should be performed and replaced as needed.
That said, the stock suspension was never that great to begin with. Several have experienced component failures on the rear's specifically.
Moving along, there is plenty of weight transfer from the front, to rear axle with the stock setup. Most pronounced when launching it WOT from stop, or slow mph conditions as you describe.
The H&R's will offer you improvement over stock. The Megan Coil Overs are an improvement over the H&R's.
Eibach's are no longer available for our platform due to lackluster sales. They would've fit right in with the H&R's as far as improvement over stock.
Others have tried traction bars and bags, and did not find any improvement in reducing weight transfer and/or any improvement in traction.
Finally, you have to remember, although our platform is marketed as being AWD, it is still FWD biased. Approximately 70% of the power equation is pushed through the front axle, and the remaining approximate 30% is dumped to the rear axle.
So you're fighting an uphill battle as it stands.
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I would also check the rear shocks as they a prone to leaking. Z
Thank you for the insight. So if I do H&R sprigs what Struts should I go with? And if I go stock strut will it not function right b/c the springs are lower then stock? Sorry never lowered a car before. I had a 2010 Vette and it was low enough and never had to touch the suspension.
Are you in 2nd gear at that point? You have traction control all the way off? Stock tune or ... ? Only lifting up on the throttle and the event happens? Sounds like a torque mgmt issue, system not reacting quickly enough. But could also be trans/PTU
Unfortunately the closest you will get to a nonoem strut will be if you get a coilover setup, available from Megan racing.
Air suspension?? Stock PP suspension. LMS 93x-race tune. No still in 1st gear. Just started after I added the LMS tune. I am not leaking any fluid everything is dry underneath and I would now she stays in my garage.
I've herd that their are issues with the Megan suspension and do not want to spend the money on issues. I saw KYB makes strut's but they are only for the rear. So what can I use for the front? Sorry everyone if I'm nuking this but I only want to put the best on my car and only want to spend the money once.
I would also adjust the tire PSI in the front and see if that helps any.
What are they set to now?
http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2011/ford/taurus/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/struts-and-components-scat (http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-parts/2011/ford/taurus/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/front-suspension-cat/struts-and-components-scat)
I am curious what issues you have heard with the Megan setup?
Honestly I do not know. Never checked. Just take it to the dealer and they put Nitrogen in them and off I go. I will check them and see in the morning after it sits all night. Never thought of that. Thanks
If I'm wrong please correct me. Only going off what I read and was told. I heard the suspension has to be moded to go on not a direct bolt-on. Also heard their was some issues with alignment but have read that that is fixed now. And it is not that easy to adjust the ride height and get it dialed in.
Megan's were a breeze for me to install. They were/are direct bolt on.
No issues for alignment for me, but then again, I am still running the adjustable camber bolts in the rear from when I had the H&R's.
Some have found the adj. cam bolts aren't necessary, as they take full advantage of the slot on the rear upper spindles. But some still need the bolts regardless. Myself included.
Not sure where you heard that adjusting the ride height was/is difficult? Megan supplies wrenches with their kits, and it makes raising/lowering the car fairly simple. I mean of course other than the mere physical labor involved to do so, but still, not an issue I experienced by any means.
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Thank you for the information boss man. bpd1151 what year is yours? So is that what you recommend for my little issue? And where did you buy yours? I just don't want to waist money I'm sure you fill the same.
Mine's a 2010, job 2 production.
I don't have a recommendation for a vendor to purchase from, as most will price match anyhow. Shop around.
The Megan's helped my traction issues significantly.
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Just wanted to mention that tires are a pretty important aspect here. Regardless of if your tires are new/properly aired up if they are a subpar tire/design they will not hook as well.
For example, my mustang makes MAYBE 200 horsepower at the crank currently, full suspension and gears, it can hook for days with proper tires. I put cheap nankangs on it and spun all around town. Went back to a nice BFGoodrich and no spinning at all.
On my 04 F150 that I traded for the SHO, I could spin the stock goodyear tires in reasonably dry conditions while in 4x2, even with decent tread life. Upgraded to a more aggressive treaded tire and never spun throughout the life of the tire.
Also, temperature is a major factor. My SHO hooks pretty well in 60+ degree weather, especially after a little driving to warm the compound. It always spins on a brake boost launch, no matter temperature, especially with traction control off. However, normal driving in cooler temperatures, the traction control light is pretty much consistently expected if I lay into it.
I'm running BFGoodrich g-Force Comp-2 A/S 103W @ 32psi. I should have no problem hooking.
How old are the tires and how many miles in them?
Quote from: Dutchsho11 on February 20, 2017, 05:26:32 PM
I'm running BFGoodrich g-Force Comp-2 A/S 103W @ 32psi. I should have no problem hooking.
Seems low on the PSI, I run the same tire at 35 PSI,I believe (IIRC thats the recommended Air Pressure). Like I said, cooler weather they have issues hooking till warmed up, and at the track(unprepped) I spin first all the way and can spin second if I launch it harder than usual.
In the cool at ~45-50mph if I smack the gas I can light up traction control as well, especially if I downshift/go to S and mat it.
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
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Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
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I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Derfdog since you have a PP would take advantage of that air compressor/gauge inside the trunk and put it to good use my friend especially with those 60 ' times being so crucial. Z :)
Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2017, 12:59:59 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Derfdog since you have a PP would take advantage of that air compressor/gauge inside the trunk and put it good use my friend especially with those 60 ' times being so crucial. Z :)
The PP air compressor comes with the same warning as a "donut" tire. Do not exceed 55mph etc. IDK how I feel about running tires on the highway using that.
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Ha! Well then that's the root of it..... lack of patience.
You mean to tell me you'd endure driving 1hr in each direction, to/from the track, but you can't stomach 5min worth of deflating/inflating.
C'mon man, surely you can't be serious. Lol.
Z's spot on, 60's are crucial. Take advantage of every lil bit you can. Especially when acquiring those sought after slips my friend!
Mine was a DD for 6yrs and I've driven longer than you to get back/forth to tracks. Do it derf!
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Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 01:24:32 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2017, 12:59:59 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Derfdog since you have a PP would take advantage of that air compressor/gauge inside the trunk and put it good use my friend especially with those 60 ' times being so crucial. Z :)
The PP air compressor comes with the same warning as a "donut" tire. Do not exceed 55mph etc. IDK how I feel about running tires on the highway using that.
I was referring to the air compressor and not the tire sealant. Z
My tires have around 3,000 miles on them. I have been running 35psi cold so I dropped it down to 32psi to see if any changes really I fill none. I think I might just go with springs from LMS and see what improvement that gives me. March MIR opens so I will finaly find out if all the money I spent was worth it?
Quote from: Dutchsho11 on February 21, 2017, 03:55:02 PM
My tires have around 3,000 miles on them. I have been running 35psi cold so I dropped it down to 32psi to see if any changes really I fill none. I think I might just go with springs from LMS and see what improvement that gives me. March MIR opens so I will finaly find out if all the money I spent was worth it?
When you looking to go to MIR? If you want someone to go with you let me know. I'm on the VA side...
If you are looking to go sub 13 seconds you need a helmet I believe..
Well March 5th is the first Sunday they are open its test and tune. I already have a helmet, I use to race my R32 and Vette at MIR. Unfortunately my daughter comes first so had to get ride of some toys. And I better run faster then 13 seconds or I'm going to be pissed with all the money I've spent on this car. I'll PM you. But I would love some company.
Quote from: Dutchsho11 on February 21, 2017, 07:31:08 PM
And I better run faster then 13 seconds or I'm going to be pissed with all the money I've spent on this car
How much did you spend? And on what?....have you figured out how to datalog yet?....I think a 2 bar tune on a stock sho should yield high 12's so you should be good if you have a tune
I'm running 1 degree cooler NGK spark-plugs gaped .28 as recommend with my tune, 3bar map sensor, low temp 170 degree thermostat, BG fluid in everything and engine oil is Full Synthetic Amsoil, MDesign cold air intake, PPE Cat-less downpipes rapped, PPE Hot pipes with Tial BOV, Magnaflow cat-back exhaust, LMS 93 4x-race tune.
LME recommends 0.028 gap with their race tune? Good to know. I always thought the 0.030 was a gold standard with them.
I've had no issue with my .028 gap.
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 01:26:41 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Ha! Well then that's the root of it..... lack of patience.
You mean to tell me you'd endure driving 1hr in each direction, to/from the track, but you can't stomach 5min worth of deflating/inflating.
C'mon man, surely you can't be serious. Lol.
Z's spot on, 60's are crucial. Take advantage of every lil bit you can. Especially when acquiring those sought after slips my friend!
Mine was a DD for 6yrs and I've driven longer than you to get back/forth to tracks. Do it derf!
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I understand that '60 foot is crucial, .1 in the '60 is ~.3 in the quarter. But if I am airing down for the track is my time really representative of street performance? I think not. I am never going to run 22 psi on the streets while I DD, so while it would cut a better best time, its not truly representative. Keeping it in its street form gives me representative times as it is basically just a controlled street environment (especially since tracks are generally unprepped for test/tune nights)
Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2017, 02:42:23 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 01:24:32 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on February 21, 2017, 12:59:59 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on February 21, 2017, 12:45:00 PM
Quote from: bpd1151 on February 21, 2017, 12:19:26 PM
I wouldn't recommend running 35psi at the track there derf......
I do 22-24psi myself (& yes, the TPMS idiot light illuminates).
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
I run 35 all the time, car is my DD, and I don't have the patience to air down/air up for the track specifically. Last time out I was cutting 1.8-2.0 '60s. I am sure lower pressure would benefit slightly but I'd rather not deal with it when I have to drive ~1 hr each way to the track and back.
Derfdog since you have a PP would take advantage of that air compressor/gauge inside the trunk and put it good use my friend especially with those 60 ' times being so crucial. Z :)
The PP air compressor comes with the same warning as a "donut" tire. Do not exceed 55mph etc. IDK how I feel about running tires on the highway using that.
I was referring to the air compressor and not the tire sealant. Z
I understand that Z, but the warning is there right on the compressor, it also takes AGES to air a tire up with that compressor. That coupled with my above statement, and I think for now I'd rather just run it in street trim. It is the same as pulling seats (passenger/rear) or other interior parts for a track day, better times will result, but you don't run just a driver seat on the street for most people. If I was pushing for fasted SHO 1/4 mile time then weight reduction like seat removal and airing down would be worth it, but pushing for street performance metric results it just isn't worth it to me.
And for both of you guys, I am just purely not comfortable driving the tires at 23 PSI or so more than a few miles if absolutely necessary, and the track I generally go to I am able to get 10-20 passes in, so that would be a lot of strain on tires IMO. One day, ill get a set of drag rims/tires for the car, and at that point (I know it will take a bit longer than airing down/up) lug those (pun intended) to the track, swap at the track, run the car, swap back, go home. OR I'll finally buy a truck again, and just trailer the SHO to track days (Since I'll probably have to do that for my mustang when its done).
Back on topic a bit though, OP, the A/S tires are wonderful for street driving but the BFG really isn't a ultra high performance tire. I love it as a DD tire, but for the track a nice Summer tire is your best bet. You will never get the best performance possible on an A/S tire in a drag race setting. If you decide to track it keep in mind prepped vs. unprepped tracks. If the track is prepped I would bet you cut better times (since you will likely be able to hook easily), unprepped tracks, expect to spin.
The bandaids here are springs/coilover and/or upgraded tires/airing tires down and learning how the car launches/behaves so you can adjust your tip in strategy for maximum hook or adjust your launch so that you get the most out of it (ie. my car spins HARD if you launch at 2500rpm, and cuts much worst times than launching at 1800-2000rpm). Also keep in mind, especially in a drag race scenario, you are maximizing torque/hp output from the start so once you hook you will stay hooked (ie, not spin mid way through the track), in a street scenario if you are just casually driving and then mat the pedal you go from say 25% utilization to 100% real quick which is why you spin at tip in, your making less than 50% torque before you floor it and go to max torque almost instantly.
Even with the Viair 70P (https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00088-88P-Portable-Compressor/dp/B005ASY23I/) I have, I think it would take 2 min per tire to get it from 22 to 35 psi.
You could get the 88P or even the 300P, just need the engine running ...
I think a good old fashioned foot pump does a relatively good job in under five min per tire and no need to worry about your battery..LMAO. Z :rofl2:
(http://i.imgur.com/3lz9Ay0h.jpg)
I thought every track has an air hose....if not , i got a husky mini compressor with gauge for 25$
They have bike pumps that work... at Walmart... dirt cheap...
Torrie tune recommends .028 gap that is what I had first then I went with Livernois tune and they said the gap should be fine and so far I have had no issue.