Just came from the Ford stealership and was informed I have 2 blown turbos. 2013 with 62,000 miles. No mods and never abused. What are my options? I took it in because I noticed a significant loss of power, no sucking sounds and my mechanic found oil in the inlet tubes, throttle body. If I am forced to buy 2 new turbos, should I just get the OEM ones or upgrade them? Also, anyone have good idea where to buy?
Time for a second opinion...62k i would expect to see oil in the intake tract....i dont know what u mean by sucking sounds..i dont hear any on mine either...pretty hard for me to believe that 2 oem turbos sit themselves at the low boost that oem runs that are liquid cooled and oil lubrcated......Z wants to know if you have any codes set prior to going to the dealer?
Did you notice any smoke from the exhaust while driving? Hoses split, clamps come loose, so those would be the first things to check. There might be oil in the intake piping, but is it pooling or just a mist? Misting is normal, pooling is not. The PCV system is known to have shortcomings. So much so that Ford released a redesigned valve cover to help combat the problem! Valve cover gasket problems in the area of cylinder #3 (driverside along the firewall) are also well-known, can cause power loss and misfires.
And yeah, any idea on codes set in the PCM/computer?
Definitely check to see what codes you have to see if it correlates with there suppose diagnosis and also you can find oem turbo's for a descent price by following this link and welcome aboard,. Z http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6k682e/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=turbocharger&position=right (http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6k682e/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=turbocharger&position=right) http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6k682f/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=turbocharger&position=left (http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/taurus/aa5z6k682f/2013-year/sho-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/engine-cat/turbocharger-and-components-scat/?part_name=turbocharger&position=left)
Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 25, 2016, 07:21:20 PM
Just came from the Ford stealership and was informed I have 2 blown turbos. 2013 with 62,000 miles. No mods and never abused. What are my options? I took it in because I noticed a significant loss of power, no sucking sounds and my mechanic found oil in the inlet tubes, throttle body. If I am forced to buy 2 new turbos, should I just get the OEM ones or upgrade them? Also, anyone have good idea where to buy?
I fel your pain!
I would get a second opinion... If it agrees with 2 blown turbos you can probably upgrade the impellers or buy new ATPs for a major upgrade for the same or less money. Be sure they tell you why they think the turbos failed to prevent recurrences.
The service guy told me they ran the car and got a P0299 code. I did not notice any burning oil smell, definitely no smoke from the exhaust. When I first noticed the power loss, I checked all the hoses and clamps and everything appeared fine. I am just blown away by having both turbos gone at the same time. I just don't know what could cause that to happen.
I am completely new to turbo driven cars so this is all a learning experience to me. As far as the oil in the tubes, it was pooling and not a mist. it was in the throttle body and the driver side tube next to the front bov.
Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 25, 2016, 10:08:34 PM
The service guy told me they ran the car and got a P0299 code. I did not notice any burning oil smell, definitely no smoke from the exhaust. When I first noticed the power loss, I checked all the hoses and clamps and everything appeared fine. I am just blown away by having both turbos gone at the same time. I just don't know what could cause that to happen.
I am completely new to turbo driven cars so this is all a learning experience to me. As far as the oil in the tubes, it was pooling and not a mist. it was in the throttle body and the driver side tube next to the front bov.
Had any fuel services performed recently?
no fuel service done.
With no boost leaks and none of the typical howling or smoke from a blown turbo I would look at the waste gates as a possible problem. Check that they move freely and inspect the vacuum limes going to them.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on March 25, 2016, 10:20:07 PM
Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 25, 2016, 10:08:34 PM
The service guy told me they ran the car and got a P0299 code. I did not notice any burning oil smell, definitely no smoke from the exhaust. When I first noticed the power loss, I checked all the hoses and clamps and everything appeared fine. I am just blown away by having both turbos gone at the same time. I just don't know what could cause that to happen.
I am completely new to turbo driven cars so this is all a learning experience to me. As far as the oil in the tubes, it was pooling and not a mist. it was in the throttle body and the driver side tube next to the front bov.
Had any fuel services performed recently?
P0299 just means low boost... Even a boost leak or bov malfunction either of which is much more likely than two blown turbos. Get a mechanic instead of a tech.
Copy. But. I am new to turbo vehicles. Don't know what a wastegate, where it is, or what it looks like. Any photos. Thank you all for the insight. Also, I have a SCT x4 and havent had any codes. I even checked before taking it to the dealer and did not find any. The car drives fine and drives like a normal taurus without turbos.
Forgot to ask. What/where is the MAP, and if clogged, can it cause a blockage of pressure?
When I connected my SCT x4 from torrie to read the codes, I also tried to datalog it and I noticed at idle, my boost psi was at -10.12. When I accelerated, it never got to 0.
I thought you had no mods?? Z
Time to find a Lincoln dealership to evaluate your car. They are much more familiar with EcoBoost technology. If you have a tune installed, return the car to stock tune. I'm guessing you don't have a 3bar MAP installed for sure!
MAP sensors can be cleaned with MAF Cleaner or electronics parts cleaner. I don't think this is the issue, but ... There's the MAP sensor on top of the intake manifold, that's stock 2bar, and is frequently changed to 3bar (requires tune to go with). The other MAP sensor is a 3 bar, and you can find it on the pipe leading to the throttle body. Part number ending in 9F479 for both of them.
I don't have any mods. Just got the scanner and tune from Torrie this week but have not installed it.
When did it start behaving like this and was there an event where it all started? Any other abnormalities in the way it runs or just no boost?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
noticed it 2 weeks ago and took it to the dealer last week. There was no event or nothing specific that happened.
Abnormalities: throttle doesn't seem as responsive. I am not sure bout the vacuum being at -10 at idle or if that is normal behavior. Would that signify a leak somewhere?
These motors always seem to have oil in the intake tubes. I thought it was crazy as well. I cant see both your turbos going at once. The wastegate seems like it could be stuck but then again I cant see them both getting stuck open together either. There has to be something else going on with it. That would be a pretty damn big leak if the car makes no boost at all. This may sound stupid but I would pull the air filter and start the car and cover the intake hole and see if the car suffocates, if not its pulling air somewhere else. As for the wastegates, that issue is common with the F150's and I heard about a new SHO here locally that the nut actually came off the impeller side of the turbo and destroyed the turbo.
Your car behaves exactly like mine did when the tech forgot to reconnect the CAC tube.
I agree with FoMoCoSHO as I had the same thing from a dealer visit but that hose just pops off sometime on its own. I highly recommend you check the vacuum hoses on top of the motor under the engine cover. There is a sensor with 3 or 4 small short hoses going to it. One goes to a cold air tube and that is the most likely suspect.
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
Here is a pic of the hoses to look for as other's kindly mentioned above along with the 2-bar map sensor located on top of the manifold,Btw installed new 1/4 clamps on the wastegate hoses for a more secure fit. Z
Great picture and man those hot pipes look good!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Where are you located?
Sabta1
I did as you recommended and removed air filter and plugged the hose. The car did not suffocate or appear to miss the air. It did try to suck my towel in the hose though. Also, It sounds like I hear a hissing noise and the rear bov sensor has a tremendous amount of oil present on it and around the tube.
I am in alexandria va
I was thinking that someone local to you from the site and more familiar with the typical boost issues could do a once over for you. Unfortunately I'm in Cleveland Ohio.
Have you contacted ford customer service? They may be willing since your just out of your 5yr -60,000 warranty to help you out of good faith.
It's a long shot but it's worth a try.
As other have said oil in the turbo piping is normal, just not an excessive amount.
If you car is not billowing out blue smoke I would guess it's not excessive.
It definitely sounds like something else is going on. 2 turbos going relatively early is not a common occurrence.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
IIRC, koons sterling ford is a good place to go for sales/service if you want to give them a try ...
Glock,
Thanks for the advice. I am assuming there is a leak somewhere. When I connected my SCTx4 to datalog, the car is showing -10.19 at idle. When I press on the gas, it doesn't pass 0.00. Is that normal or does it represent a vacuum leak?
I took the car to one ford dealer and once he saw found a p0299 code, they automatically said my 2 turbos are gone. Took it to a different ford dealer this morning and they noted the same code, however, they want me to bring it back during the week so they can pull both turbos and check for bad seals etc. They also checked pcv and did not find anything out the ordinary. The good news is they refused to charge me the $150 diagnostic fee until they can tell me exactly what's wrong. I can't say the same for the first dealer.
When checking for boost with the sct are you in park? The car when it is stock doesn't really build boost pressure unless it's under load.
I would check while driving going slightly up hill while in 3-4 gear. Boost really builds quickly in that situation.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I've done it while driving in multiple situations and it still doesn't change above 0.00.
My tube was disconnected at the CAC between it and the intake. Very loose will cause the same condition.
Drove it, zero boost.
It is very odd that both turbos completely failed and are incapable of making any boost.
MrsFoMoCoSHO has never seen any 3.5 ECOs with that issue and across the lines complete complete turbo failure is rare unless something got sucked in or something is unhooked.
Could the oil on/in this sensor connected to rear bov cause my issues? How do I clean it?
Definitely get a can or two of electronic cleaner/maf cleaner and spray liberally inside the the harness/connectors and on the map,iat,tb sensors and wait a few minutes to dry. Z
That's definitely not normal.
I'm not even sure how its possible to have oil in that connector......
I was just curious to know what type of Motor oil and oil filter you are using and at what intervals/mileage do you change the oil? Z
If your blow off valve is stuck you definitely won't build boost. I think you are on to something...
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
Ecoboost,
How do I check for a stuck bov?
Remove the 2 8mm bolts that hold on the BOV and check for free movement.
You'll have to remove the hose also. It's kind of a pita
with the stock pinch clamp.
Actually you might not have to remove the hose because the diaphragm is on the charge pipe side.
Thanks Glock. I will try in the morning
Here's a link that goes through several possibilities that could set a P2099 DTC... This might help. I still think simultaneous failure of both turbos without unusual noises or worse is unlikely. Even low oil pressure, EGR valve, or any one of a number of faulty sensors can do it on FMC products. So check this out:
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0299 (http://www.obd-codes.com/p0299)
Hope it helps.
Wow. That's a lot of oil in the plug. I would assume it's coming from the inside of the blow off since the plugs are sealed up really good. Is it possible that that's some how screwing up the electronics and putting it into some sort of limp mode cause both blow offs to remain open and not allow boost??? If you were by me I'd give ya one of mine to try. I would probably just replace that anyways. It obviously has something wrong with it. Well, that's what I would do anyways.
Quote from: BiGMaC on March 26, 2016, 09:56:56 PM
Here's a link that goes through several possibilities that could set a P2099 DTC... This might help. I still think simultaneous failure of both turbos without unusual noises or worse is unlikely. Even low oil pressure, EGR valve, or any one of a number of faulty sensors can do it on FMC products. So check this out:
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0299 (http://www.obd-codes.com/p0299)
Hope it helps.
I'd recommend reading at the link above before blindly spending any money ... Or not...
I agree with Bigmac. you could also switch the front blow off valve to the rear and the rear to the front and leave the front one unhooked. But you have to have the rear plugged in. Just a shot in the dark....
Quote from: Sabtaj1 on March 27, 2016, 12:10:03 AM
I agree with Bigmac. you could also switch the front blow off valve to the rear and the rear to the front and leave the front one unhooked. But you have to have the rear plugged in. Just a shot in the dark....
Sabtaj thats where the Tials/Hotpipes Prevail. Z ;)
Quote from: ZSHO on March 27, 2016, 12:14:08 AM
Quote from: Sabtaj1 on March 27, 2016, 12:10:03 AM
I agree with Bigmac. you could also switch the front blow off valve to the rear and the rear to the front and leave the front one unhooked. But you have to have the rear plugged in. Just a shot in the dark....
Sabtaj thats where the Tials/Hotpipes Prevail. Z ;)
True! Or the hotpipes with OEM bovs... Still there's a lot to consider... But the hotpipes were developed, ...Mike got tired of chasing a boost leak.
I think I may have found an/the issue. So I check my front bov and it works like it should. Removed the rear bov and here is what I found. The question is, could this prevent my turbos from working? Also, its obvious that I need a new one, can this be found at any parts store?
JACKPOT!!!! That's your culprit right there. Man. I can't believe it took a dump like that. Wow!!!! Better find ya another ASAP. For the meantime of its your everyday car you can put the good one in the rear and plug it in. Make some sort of block plate for the front one as it does not need to be plugged in. And cap off the recirculating tube on the front. That's crazy
Sorry to say but your gonna have to go to the dealer for that I'm sure. Way way cheaper than two turbos.
I will switch the front one to the back. Should I then do the bov VTA mod for the front? Do I need to keep the front one plugged or unplugged?
You should just plug up the front one. The rear you can either hook the tube back up or cap it off on the actual pipe. You will have to make some sort of make shift piece to seal up the front port where the BOV was for now. And that will get you by until your able to get anothe BOV. If you plan to do the VTA then do the rear now and then all you have to do is instal new BOV on the front n plug er in. And done
Msrp is $110 and Tasca parts has it for $76
Part #: AA5Z-9U465-A
Should be able to get one from any ford dealer. They may even match online pricing from Levittown Ford or Tasca or Autonation :)
Super job! Glad you figured it out. Good suggestion above for sure. Great pics also. It does look like your engine might have injested A small amount of plastic from the bov in your pics... Not sure... Should be OK though.
If you go VTA be sure to seal the port where the broken bov was.... And plug the recirc tube or remove the tube and cap the nipple on the charge pipes (hotpipes) otherwise you'll have a boost leak again and the car will act the same. High temp silicon caps have worked for over two years for me. Pics are in the hotpipe install post I did. It's here:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2248.msg32460.html#msg32460 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,2248.msg32460.html#msg32460)
Might want to take a look before the forum is transferred to a new host this is evening just in case.
Glad you found it...that would definitely do it.
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
That's an amazing find. Props to the guys posting previously that alluded to the BOV being the culprit.
Fitness just saved himself a LOT of money which should immediately be used to buy a tuner and 3 bar so he can really enjoy the car. :D
Quote from: r1crusher on March 27, 2016, 11:19:19 AM
That's an amazing find. Props to the guys posting previously that alluded to the BOV being the culprit.
Fitness just saved himself a LOT of money which should immediately be used to buy a tuner and 3 bar so he can really enjoy the car. :D
X2!
Quote from: SHOdded on March 27, 2016, 11:25:03 AM
Quote from: r1crusher on March 27, 2016, 11:19:19 AM
That's an amazing find. Props to the guys posting previously that alluded to the BOV being the culprit.
Fitness just saved himself a LOT of money which should immediately be used to buy a tuner and 3 bar so he can really enjoy the car. :D
X2!
X3! Get tuned!
First I would like to say thank you to all of you for your help in troubleshooting the issues. Its a shame you guys are more knowledgable then the ford service personnel I interacted with.
I changed the good front bov to the back and connected it all as it was on the rear. I placed the broken bov on the front since I did not know how to plug the whole without it on. I capped the nipple where the recirc tube was as well as capped the other end on the canister where the recirc tube was connected to. I am still having the same (no turbo) issues so I unplugged the battery and will reconnect after 30 min. Unfortunately, all the ford dealers are closed on Sunday so I cant find another bov until tomorrow. I really appreciate all the help and will keep you guys informed.
Also, couldn't find the bov on fords website. AA5Z-9U465-A
Great job getting your hands dirty, checking things for yourself and avoiding the dealership service trap.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Oops. Better idea. Make sure that suckers empty with no loose parts what's so ever. (Broken one). Then be sure to cap the plug in side too (where the electrical plug. Goes into it. Since that's leaking as well. So you want both spots on that busted sob plugged up on it
Oh. And here's the link on TASCA.... Maybe the first dealer you went to will give you a break on it.
http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/flex/aa5z9u465a/2013-year/limited-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/cooling-system-cat/intercooler-scat/?part_name=valve (http://www.tascaparts.com/ford/flex/aa5z9u465a/2013-year/limited-trim/3-5l-v6-gas-engine/cooling-system-cat/intercooler-scat/?part_name=valve)
Great job!! You just saved yourself at least 2g's.
Can't believe how DESTROYED that BOV is.
Until you block off the damaged port/charge pipe you still won't see boost.
If you do go VTA you'll need to block off the recirculation pipe opening.
Agreed with Glock...you can't "just" swap the front to rear (if I read that right)? You will need to cap it so it will hold 10-15 lbs of boost since it is leaking or entirely remove it and fashion some type of block off plate. Or ideally overnight yourself a new one and swap it...
Sent from my XT1096 using Tapatalk
I only said swap the front to the rear because the rear one has to be plugged in so it doesn't throw a code. And also mentioned that if he was not able to make a block plate for the front BOV that he could simply gut the crappy one that came from the rear and cap off both the plug in side and the air side of the crappy valve since it's leaking throughout. The front one can be unplugged and not throw a code. I'd like to hear an update. This is just to get by until you have the new BOV of course. Sorry for the confusion
Quote from: Sabtaj1 on March 27, 2016, 08:17:07 PM
I only said swap the front to the rear because the rear one has to be plugged in so it doesn't throw a code. And also mentioned that if he was not able to make a block plate for the front BOV that he could simply gut the crappy one that came from the rear and cap off both the plug in side and the air side of the crappy valve since it's leaking throughout. The front one can be unplugged and not throw a code. I'd like to hear an update. This is just to get by until you have the new BOV of course. Sorry for the confusion
Good advise sab, I didn't read previous post. But you nailed it on the head.
Guys. I just made a major discovery. Atleast I think it is. look at the pic attached. On the throttle body right beneath the sensor with the red cap. There is a black circular thing sticking out. On my car, its not there. there is a hole there like the cap (or whatever it is,) is missing. I included the photo for BigMac's hotpipe install and mine is beneath it. What is that part, how important is it and could that be part of my boost issues since its on the throttle body?
Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 28, 2016, 12:03:53 AM
Guys. I just made a major discovery. Atleast I think it is. look at the pic attached. On the throttle body right beneath the sensor with the red cap. There is a black circular thing sticking out. On my car, its not there. there is a hole there like the cap (or whatever it is,) is missing. I included the photo for BigMac's hotpipe install and mine is beneath it. What is that part, how important is it and could that be part of my boost issues since its on the throttle body?
Good find! It's why we post all the pics.
The same "opening" is capped on the pic of my car... And I just looked under the hood to verify that. The large circular object (white) is the throttle plate controller and the opening (that should be capped) below the electrical connection is around the medial end of the control bar that crosses and holds the throttle plate .... It actually rotates to open and close the throttle plate. There is a mirror image on the lateral side. I do believe it should be capped. You can see the engagement grooves for the cap that is missing. It very well could be causing a turbo leak... Or even a throttle problem in our drive by wire systems.
Start the car, engine cool, and cover it with your hand or a sheet of stiff paper. It should pull a vacuum at idle if it is in fact open to the charge system an manifold. Even if it doesn't, get a cap to protect the gears and electric motor.
Definitely could be on to something:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3947 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3947)
Should get the throttle body replaced (a very DIY job if no warranty).
Quote from: SHOdded on March 28, 2016, 12:49:00 AM
Definitely could be on to something:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3947 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,3947)
Should get the throttle body replaced (a very DIY job if no warranty).
Great link Manu! I remember that discussion now. ...But wouldn't just replacing the TB servo assembly be enough... Or is it all connected so well it comes as a unit?
Sometimes you can get the servo separately, IME the throttle body is much more readily available. I have been able to locate the servo/capacitor for the Edge before, so ...
Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 28, 2016, 12:03:53 AM There is a black circular thing sticking out.
On my car, its not there.
There is a hole there like the cap (or whatever it is) is missing.
What is that part, how important is it and could that be part of my boost issues since its on the throttle body?
No need for alarm. It is just simply a dust cover.
There's no significant importance to it.
Mine blew off years ago, no issues.
Doesn't affect anything (having it gone).
Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
Update on BOV:
Had the dealer go grab one from another dealer and will pick up this afternoon and install myself. (They refer to the BOV as a seal-valve. The parts guy had no FI what a BOV was). Still no Turbo so hope this helps address the issue. If not, still waiting to hear if Ford HQ will pay for two new Turbos' since so close to powertrain warranty.
Quote from: fitnesstrainermd on March 28, 2016, 01:51:12 PM
Update on BOV:
Had the dealer go grab one from another dealer and will pick up this afternoon and install myself. (They refer to the BOV as a seal-valve. The parts guy had no FI what a BOV was). Still no Turbo so hope this helps address the issue. If not, still waiting to hear if Ford HQ will pay for two new Turbos' since so close to powertrain warranty.
Any update? Did you change it out?
Looking through this thread, seems I am missing some posts....namely between page 3 and 4. I cannot see the discovery or any pics ofmthe damaged BOV??? Is the missing info due to the forum move?
Pics of the damaged BOV in this post:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5936.msg93499.html#msg93499 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5936.msg93499.html#msg93499)
any updates on this??
Gentlemen, and those not that gentle,
I HAVE BOOST!!!
It appears that the rear BOV was causing the issues. It was complete destroyed (per the pics). I picked up the BOV on Monday evening and installed it. Didn't know how to do a forced re-learn for computer. Last night on the way home, car felt extra powerful like I haven't felt in a while. Thought it was do to the cool weather. This morning got in car and again noticed increased pep in her step and wondered if I was back on track. Pulled over at gas station and connected my SCTX4 to watch the boost level. Drove from stop to next light and looked at boost level and it had reached +8. (prior to fixed BOV, it was reading from -11.00-0.00) and never got on the positive. So I checked again and accelerated hard and the boost went up to 10. I think I am back.
Now, I know how to load my custom tune but do I install 3-bar map prior to installing tune or tune first?
Good news! Yes you will want to install the 3bar and then the tune right away, don't drive or even start the car with the 3bar installed without the new tune.
By the way. I would sincerely like to thank you guys for all the help and guidance. U guys really are a critical part of this forum because you provide noobs like me with answers the damn mechanics at the stealerships don't or wont. I've learned more about my car from you guys in 1 week than in my entire 6 months of having it. So, just want to say I am truly grateful for all the input from you all.
Now, I think I can get away with telling the wife I need a new CAI and that what the problem was since we both thought I needed 2 new turbos (per the 1st dealership). I know not to expect anything from them except some smile from the sound.
Thats certainly music to my ears and glad everything worked out in your favor. Z :)
Awesome!!!!! Glad it all worked out.
Excellent news!
Awesome news!
Fitnesstrainermd - Glad you found it!
Now you need to tune it!
FWIW, if you ever need, I recommend seeing Alan at Koons in Sterling. He is a service writer. He used to own a 2010 SHO, then an Explorer Sport, so he is well versed on this platform. Also the sales mgr at the same dealer location has a SHO.
Mark
Sent from my XT1094 using Tapatalk
What dealership BTW. I live in Woodbridge and go to Cowles.
Quote from: SHOdded on March 29, 2016, 03:18:58 AM
Pics of the damaged BOV in this post:
http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5936.msg93499.html#msg93499 (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/topic,5936.msg93499.html#msg93499)
Thanks SHOdded. However, the link just takes me to page 4 of the thread. Still don't see any pictures of the damaged BOV (just pics of the oiled wire connector and also some pics regarding the dust cap on the throttle body piece/servo in the thread).
No worries.....was just curious. 8)
The thread just might have taken time to load, seen this especially on mobile devices when pics are involved. So it gets stuck at the first post with lots of pics, then scrolls down, repeats, until it gets to the post that was actually linked.
Anyway, look for reply #46 in this thread.
here are the pics of the blown bov
Thanks guys! Curiosity got the best of me to see the pics. Guessing the orange seal is some sort of rubber/Viton or something.
Guess the BOV might be something to periodically remove and check the seal? Or, do you think removing/re-installing often would exasperate the problem?
Regardless, great find and thanks for sharing!
Quote from: SHOw-Me State on April 01, 2016, 06:18:39 PM
Thanks guys! Curiosity got the best of me to see the pics. Guessing the orange seal is some sort of rubber/Viton or something.
Guess the BOV might be something to periodically remove and check the seal? Or, do you think removing/re-installing often would exasperate the problem?
Regardless, great find and thanks for sharing!
I wouldn't remove it... Unaware of any PM to do. IMHO very low chance of damage, but why do it... If it breaks you'll know, just like the OP.