Can some please tell me why my car is doing this??????
https://youtu.be/MdbezMY9_N4
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The Diaphram inside the BOV sounds ruptured !
Try to Disconnect the FRONT BOV HARNESS CONNECTOR & see if you still hear the sound!!!!
Did you ever get a chance to check for codes! Z
It seems the prices on the BOV (Air Duct Valve) have decreased a bit which is always welcomed. Z :)
$48.16
https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-air-duct-valve-aa5z9u465a/?c=Zz1jb29saW5nLXN5c3RlbSZzPWludGVyY29vbGVyJmk9S0QwOTA2MzUmcj1sYXllcl8xMiZhPWZvcmQmbz10YXVydXMmeT0yMDEzJnQ9c2hvJmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D (https://www.tascaparts.com/oem-parts/ford-air-duct-valve-aa5z9u465a/?c=Zz1jb29saW5nLXN5c3RlbSZzPWludGVyY29vbGVyJmk9S0QwOTA2MzUmcj1sYXllcl8xMiZhPWZvcmQmbz10YXVydXMmeT0yMDEzJnQ9c2hvJmU9My01bC12Ni1nYXM%3D)
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 07:02:25 AM
The Diaphram inside the BOV sounds ruptured !
Try to Disconnect the FRONT BOV HARNESS CONNECTOR & see if you still hear the sound!!!!
Did you ever get a chance to check for codes! Z
It doesn't have any codes. I just got my car back with a new engine. How would I tell them that my BOV sound weird with out them knowing I disconnect them?
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 16, 2018, 07:00:09 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 07:02:25 AM
The Diaphram inside the BOV sounds ruptured !
Try to Disconnect the FRONT BOV HARNESS CONNECTOR & see if you still hear the sound!!!!
Did you ever get a chance to check for codes! Z
It doesn't have any codes. I just got my car back with a new engine. How would I tell them that my BOV sound weird with out them knowing I disconnect them?
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Bit of Trial & Error is sometimes called for! If you can simply unplug the BOV Harness connector to see if that flutter sound you hear goes away while driving!!!
If so just purchase a new BOV from the link provided above.....Its a mere amount to pay,especially if it avoids a dealer visit! Keep us updated & Simply trying to help ya out. Z :)
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 07:56:52 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 16, 2018, 07:00:09 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 07:02:25 AM
The Diaphram inside the BOV sounds ruptured !
Try to Disconnect the FRONT BOV HARNESS CONNECTOR & see if you still hear the sound!!!!
Did you ever get a chance to check for codes! Z
It doesn't have any codes. I just got my car back with a new engine. How would I tell them that my BOV sound weird with out them knowing I disconnect them?
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Bit of Trial & Error is sometimes called for! If you can simply unplug the BOV Harness connector to see if that flutter sound you hear goes away while driving!!!
If so just purchase a new BOV from the link provided above.....Its a mere amount to pay,especially if it avoids a dealer visit! Keep us updated & Simply trying to help ya out. Z :)
I really appreciate the help.
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I Guess you can also remove the Front & REAR BOV since they are the same identical part and inspect the Diaphram on each part for any notable difference. Z
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 09:07:01 PM
I Guess you can also remove the Front & REAR BOV since they are the same identical part and inspect the Diaphram on each part for any notable difference. Z
I will. I will also take pictures to see if you see anything
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 16, 2018, 07:00:09 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 07:02:25 AM
The Diaphram inside the BOV sounds ruptured !
Try to Disconnect the FRONT BOV HARNESS CONNECTOR & see if you still hear the sound!!!!
Did you ever get a chance to check for codes! Z
It doesn't have any codes. I just got my car back with a new engine. How would I tell them that my BOV sound weird with out them knowing I disconnect them?
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It's hard to believe you don't have any codes when ur check engine light is ON in that video.
It sounds like it's building boost and can't hold it. I would check all clamps on the pressure side of the turbos.
Also check the hoses on top of the manifold to make sure they reconnected them. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/4b7785c1dec6d414429326dce534e04d.jpg)
Quote from: glock-coma on June 16, 2018, 10:36:42 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 16, 2018, 07:00:09 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 07:02:25 AM
The Diaphram inside the BOV sounds ruptured !
Try to Disconnect the FRONT BOV HARNESS CONNECTOR & see if you still hear the sound!!!!
Did you ever get a chance to check for codes! Z
It doesn't have any codes. I just got my car back with a new engine. How would I tell them that my BOV sound weird with out them knowing I disconnect them?
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It's hard to believe you don't have any codes when ur check engine light is ON in that video.
It sounds like it's building boost and can't hold it. I would check all clamps on the pressure side of the turbos.
Also check the hoses on top of the manifold to make sure they reconnected them. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/4b7785c1dec6d414429326dce534e04d.jpg)
Very true. I checked with Autozone and the code was for the thermostat or it needed water. I called ford and told me that it was covered do to the engine being new.
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 16, 2018, 10:19:56 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 09:07:01 PM
I Guess you can also remove the Front & REAR BOV since they are the same identical part and inspect the Diaphram on each part for any notable difference. Z
I will. I will also take pictures to see if you see anything
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Due post some PICS'! I would love to take a gander @ the engine bay. Z
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 07:52:11 AM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 16, 2018, 10:19:56 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 09:07:01 PM
I Guess you can also remove the Front & REAR BOV since they are the same identical part and inspect the Diaphram on each part for any notable difference. Z
I will. I will also take pictures to see if you see anything
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Due post some PICS'! I would love to take a gander @ the engine bay. Z
Here are some pictures (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/927c658dc8e357f4559058f2ec0ecb7e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/26139d07aec3024e1ed049887b3f5284.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/602f338f145ffd00be82985ce69ebfd5.jpg)
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 10:38:56 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 07:52:11 AM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 16, 2018, 10:19:56 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 16, 2018, 09:07:01 PM
I Guess you can also remove the Front & REAR BOV since they are the same identical part and inspect the Diaphram on each part for any notable difference. Z
I will. I will also take pictures to see if you see anything
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Due post some PICS'! I would love to take a gander @ the engine bay. Z
Here are some pictures (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/927c658dc8e357f4559058f2ec0ecb7e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/26139d07aec3024e1ed049887b3f5284.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/602f338f145ffd00be82985ce69ebfd5.jpg)
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One more(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/829a137652fe718791cb61f560dc4fcb.jpg)
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The brake booster vacuum line by the firewall looks to be loose!
The IAT Sensor grommet coming from the MDesign intake seems unsecured IMO!
Did you try driving without the FRONT BOV Connected! Z
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 11:43:21 AM
The brake booster vacuum line by the firewall looks to be loose!
The IAT Sensor grommet coming from the MDesign intake seems unsecured IMO!
Did you try driving without the FRONT BOV Connected! Z
Can you point them out for me????
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The vacuum line brake booster is pictured below! Check the sensor that you connected to the MDesign intake which looks loose. Z
(https://i.imgur.com/Se5tibXh.jpg)
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 11:58:22 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 11:43:21 AM
The brake booster vacuum line by the firewall looks to be loose!
The IAT Sensor grommet coming from the MDesign intake seems unsecured IMO!
Did you try driving without the FRONT BOV Connected! Z
Can you point them out for me????
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Can I switch them around?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/38603dd5b2acbf021b98c74a2dd9d6fb.jpg)
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 12:07:19 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 11:58:22 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 11:43:21 AM
The brake booster vacuum line by the firewall looks to be loose!
The IAT Sensor grommet coming from the MDesign intake seems unsecured IMO!
Did you try driving without the FRONT BOV Connected! Z
Can you point them out for me????
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Can I switch them around?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/38603dd5b2acbf021b98c74a2dd9d6fb.jpg)
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Correct indeed! Focus on the BOV for now . Z
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 12:17:44 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 12:07:19 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 11:58:22 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 11:43:21 AM
The brake booster vacuum line by the firewall looks to be loose!
The IAT Sensor grommet coming from the MDesign intake seems unsecured IMO!
Did you try driving without the FRONT BOV Connected! Z
Can you point them out for me????
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Can I switch them around?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/38603dd5b2acbf021b98c74a2dd9d6fb.jpg)
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Correct indeed! Focus on the BOV for now . Z
I dont have a clamp for the rear charge pipe. Can that be it?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180617/17abfa24ffa759655a5605123d8c47da.jpg)
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No! The Front & Rear ports work on vacuum and don't need hose clamps Z
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:05:17 PM
No! The Front & Rear ports work on vacuum and don't need hose clamps Z
So I disconnected the front connector and its not doing it no more. They do sound a lot louder.
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 01:13:57 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:05:17 PM
No! The Front & Rear ports work on vacuum and don't need hose clamps Z
So I disconnected the front connector and its not doing it no more. They do sound a lot louder.
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Thats some Awesome news !!! Thats perfectly normal and expected....
I would just order a new BOV from the ^^^ link as mentioned earlier. Z
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:29:57 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 01:13:57 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:05:17 PM
No! The Front & Rear ports work on vacuum and don't need hose clamps Z
So I disconnected the front connector and its not doing it no more. They do sound a lot louder.
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Thats some Awesome news !!! Thats perfectly normal and expected....
I would just order a new BOV from the ^^^ link as mentioned earlier. Z
Can leave unplugged
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 01:43:23 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:29:57 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 01:13:57 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:05:17 PM
No! The Front & Rear ports work on vacuum and don't need hose clamps Z
So I disconnected the front connector and its not doing it no more. They do sound a lot louder.
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Thats some Awesome news !!! Thats perfectly normal and expected....
I would just order a new BOV from the ^^^ link as mentioned earlier. Z
Can leave unplugged
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Yes! But intall some black electrical tape around the connector until you receive the new part. Z
So my car is the Ford Dealership. They told me that my car is over boosting. Why is that?
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Did you ever order and replace it with a brand new BOV as mentioned previously! Z
Quote from: ZSHO on June 27, 2018, 09:09:13 PM
Did you ever order and replace it with a brand new BOV as mentioned previously! Z
No. I just took my car for a warranty job. They told me that my car was over boosting. They are currently looking for the reason. I never once mentioned it to them they found it on there own. Hopefully they change it under my warranty
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 27, 2018, 09:18:38 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 27, 2018, 09:09:13 PM
Did you ever order and replace it with a brand new BOV as mentioned previously! Z
No. I just took my car for a warranty job. They told me that my car was over boosting. They are currently looking for the reason. I never once mentioned it to them they found it on there own. Hopefully they change it under my warranty
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The same dealer that replaced it with a new Long Block Correct!
Did you revert back to stock setup!
It should be covered under warranty and keep us updated. Z
Yes I need. I only left my catch can on. It is the same dealership.
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Make sure you check thay brake booster line that Z noticed when you get the car back. You dont want that fugger coming off, trust me, almost no brakes sucks pretty bad.
Quote from: DstryEvrytng on July 03, 2018, 02:51:32 PM
Make sure you check thay brake booster line that Z noticed when you get the car back. You dont want that fugger coming off, trust me, almost no brakes sucks pretty bad.
I will. Ford still has my car. I called today and I was told that they can't figure out why my car is over boosting. It's been 3 weeks already
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 03, 2018, 02:54:38 PM
Quote from: DstryEvrytng on July 03, 2018, 02:51:32 PM
Make sure you check thay brake booster line that Z noticed when you get the car back. You dont want that fugger coming off, trust me, almost no brakes sucks pretty bad.
I will. Ford still has my car. I called today and I was told that they can't figure out why my car is over boosting. It's been 3 weeks already
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Thats a little redic its been that long. I wish i could throw right off of my head what would cause an overboost condition besides the BOV's not working. Theres no way they havent figured that out yet, but, some techs arent all that great.
Quote from: DstryEvrytng on July 03, 2018, 03:13:25 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 03, 2018, 02:54:38 PM
Quote from: DstryEvrytng on July 03, 2018, 02:51:32 PM
Make sure you check thay brake booster line that Z noticed when you get the car back. You dont want that fugger coming off, trust me, almost no brakes sucks pretty bad.
I will. Ford still has my car. I called today and I was told that they can't figure out why my car is over boosting. It's been 3 weeks already
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Thats a little redic its been that long. I wish i could throw right off of my head what would cause an overboost condition besides the BOV's not working. Theres no way they havent figured that out yet, but, some techs arent all that great.
That's what I was saying. He said he had 3 technicians look at it and can figure it out. When I called him he said that they are sick of my car. Hahaha I was thinking to my self "what if I lucked up and left the 3 bar in"??????? Can that be?
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The 3 bar map question is above my pay grade. Lol
Quote from: DstryEvrytng on July 03, 2018, 03:37:46 PM
The 3 bar map question is above my pay grade. Lol
I think it would be very noticeable right? Let see if anyone here would know
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The check engine light (wrench) light would of lit up causing the vehicle to be in limp mode and the vehicle would be barely driveable!
What exact codes did dealer find! Z
I am not sure. Anitionaly I had took it in for the car overheating. They had found that the car was over boosting. So I dont know
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If there was an over boost condition you would see Code PO234 or PO045!
The vehicle over heating unfortunately is not a good sign IMO! Z
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045)
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234)
Quote from: ZSHO on July 03, 2018, 05:26:21 PM
If there was an over boost condition you would see Code PO234 or PO045! Z
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045)
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234)
Depends on how long it's over boosting ..timers have to be exceeded for the codes to be set
OP I forget but is your car stock or tuned when you took it to the dealer?
Sadly I'd be willing to bed that your car has been sitting a lot at the dealer...not that many things can cause over boosting...boost solenoids, wastegates and actuators
With all the limiters and throttle control on the stock tune I'm surprised that it can actually overboost and not throw a complete fit at you....how do you know it's overboosting?
Quote from: AJP turbo on July 03, 2018, 05:40:23 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on July 03, 2018, 05:26:21 PM
If there was an over boost condition you would see Code PO234 or PO045! Z
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045)
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234)
Depends on how long it's over boosting ..timers have to be exceeded for the codes to be set
OP I forget but is your car stock or tuned when you took it to the dealer?
Sadly I'd be willing to bed that your car has been sitting a lot at the dealer...not that many things can cause over boosting...boost solenoids, wastegates and actuators
With all the limiters and throttle control on the stock tune I'm surprised that it can actually overboost and not throw a complete fit at you....how do you know it's overboosting?
True indeed! I would be a bit concerned as his car was over heating during a prior visit! Dunno! Z
When I would step on the gas it got worse as time went on. I never got the code do to mySCT not working. All they told me is that it's over boosting and they cant fine out why. If that light comes back on I'm pretty much calling it done. Lemon time! I really like the car but its becoming a problem at this point.
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Quote from: AJP turbo on July 03, 2018, 05:40:23 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on July 03, 2018, 05:26:21 PM
If there was an over boost condition you would see Code PO234 or PO045! Z
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045)
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234)
Depends on how long it's over boosting ..timers have to be exceeded for the codes to be set
OP I forget but is your car stock or tuned when you took it to the dealer?
Sadly I'd be willing to bed that your car has been sitting a lot at the dealer...not that many things can cause over boosting...boost solenoids, wastegates and actuators
With all the limiters and throttle control on the stock tune I'm surprised that it can actually overboost and not throw a complete fit at you....how do you know it's overboosting?
I am not so sure they 'know' it is over boosting .. i *SHOWED ON A LAPTOP* the boost curve and the s-pattern when it would dump boost when my gate/turbo was bad and see it rebuilt boost it back to 20+psi and they looked like they had no idea what i was talking about. When i said it was the boost pressure in Kpa they didn't have an idea... this was the 'engine guy' ...
My concern is the overheating .. a drop in long block shouldn't over heat, it sounds like the didn't bleed it properly or burp it. or worse they MIXED coolants and now you have jelly in the block.
As to the overboosting, skip the code. Get a handheld from somewhere that can log a 0-70mph run. What i expect is its dumping for another reason. but thats my crazy tin-hat..
My car stock
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Quote from: TopherSho on July 03, 2018, 08:24:11 PM
Quote from: AJP turbo on July 03, 2018, 05:40:23 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on July 03, 2018, 05:26:21 PM
If there was an over boost condition you would see Code PO234 or PO045! Z
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0045)
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234 (https://www.obd-codes.com/p0234)
Depends on how long it's over boosting ..timers have to be exceeded for the codes to be set
OP I forget but is your car stock or tuned when you took it to the dealer?
Sadly I'd be willing to bed that your car has been sitting a lot at the dealer...not that many things can cause over boosting...boost solenoids, wastegates and actuators
With all the limiters and throttle control on the stock tune I'm surprised that it can actually overboost and not throw a complete fit at you....how do you know it's overboosting?
I am not so sure they 'know' it is over boosting .. i *SHOWED ON A LAPTOP* the boost curve and the s-pattern when it would dump boost when my gate/turbo was bad and see it rebuilt boost it back to 20+psi and they looked like they had no idea what i was talking about. When i said it was the boost pressure in Kpa they didn't have an idea... this was the 'engine guy' ...
My concern is the overheating .. a drop in long block shouldn't over heat, it sounds like the didn't bleed it properly or burp it. or worse they MIXED coolants and now you have jelly in the block.
As to the overboosting, skip the code. Get a handheld from somewhere that can log a 0-70mph run. What i expect is its dumping for another reason. but thats my crazy tin-hat..
I will just wait and see what they tell. I will update you guys as I get more information. Thanks again everyone for the input.
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UPDATE ON THE TAURUS: I called the dealership last night and was told that they found more problems with the new engine. Apparently fluid from the radiator and the transmission or engine are being mixed together. Not good. He also mentioned that the mechanics dont want to work on my car anymore. Hahahaha I think it time to contact my attorney.
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My car has been at the dealership for almost 3 weeks already. I was never even offered a rental even though I keep asking for one.
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That is PURE BS! I know there are limitations depending on what type of warranty coverage you have but they should at least accommodate you with a rental for @ least up to 14 Days IIRC!
I would try speaking with the Service Manager personally for starters and lastly it might be worth while to mention Ford corporate and the BBB if nothing is getting rectified!!
Best of luck and sorry for the inconvenience. Z
I am calling my lawyer today. I'm just done with the whole situation. My car has been at the shop about 6 times already. I'm pretty sure I can get help
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What model year? I thought yours was a 15 but now idk where I read that at.
Do you have ESP? If so you should have already have a rental.
I would wait on the lawer. Get the the regional manager on the phone and try him last.. if he's unable to provide a satisfactory answer or action THEN get a a lawyer.
As soon as you get a lawyer it's game over untill it's settled.. no more work will occur and the dealership will be quite hostile from that point forward.
It's a 2013
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on July 06, 2018, 08:40:12 PM
What model year? I thought yours was a 15 but now idk where I read that at.
Do you have ESP? If so you should have already have a rental.
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So I went to the dealership again. My car is just sitting there not being worked on anymore. They are trying to get me on buying a different car. I'm lost and dont know what to do anymore. Any suggestions???????
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Ha. That's laughable.
Of course they want you in a different car.
Pure profit for them, that's for sure.
Given Ford's opting to no longer produce any sedans, it wouldn't be shocking if they steered you towards a CUV, or SUV. Big surprise there..... NOT.
Nonsense.
Have them fix your $h!t (and to your satisfaction) or move onto a different dealer.
Or better yet, follow through like you stated previously with a lawyer and/or litigation.
You said yourself that you're done. Correct?
Then why even entertain another vehicle or ask the community how to proceed?
Follow your own intitution my friend.
Quote from: bpd1151 on July 07, 2018, 09:36:12 PM
Ha. That's laughable.
Of course they want you in a different car.
Pure profit for them, that's for sure.
Given Ford's opting to no longer produce any sedans, it wouldn't be shocking if they steered you towards a CUV, or SUV. Big surprise there..... NOT.
Nonsense.
Have them fix your $h!t (and to your satisfaction) or move onto a different dealer.
Or better yet, follow through like you stated previously with a lawyer and/or litigation.
You said yourself that you're done. Correct?
Then why even entertain another vehicle or ask the community how to proceed?
Follow your own intitution my friend.
Well said my friend. I really like my car and I don't want to get my self on another 30 thousand dollar loan again. My question now is "what would you do"?
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Here's Fords Direct line for future reference! Z
Ford Corporate phone number 1800-392-ford (3673)
I'd still call the Regional Ford manager and or the Direct line that Z posted. Don't go Lawyer until you absolutely have too.
If the dealership did the swap, they are kinda on the hook. But my question that I did not see in the initial read, why was there a engine swap?
Quote from: TopherSho on July 08, 2018, 11:22:13 PM
I'd still call the Regional Ford manager and or the Direct line that Z posted. Don't go Lawyer until you absolutely have too.
If the dealership did the swap, they are kinda on the hook. But my question that I did not see in the initial read, why was there a engine swap?
My engine blew up. They change my long block 2x turbos and cats. I'm calling them tomorrow.
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Yeah they did the work and they should warranty it. What was the cause of failure the 1st time?
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:01:46 AM
Yeah they did the work and they should warranty it. What was the cause of failure the 1st time?
My engine blew up. I had oil and medal parts in the bottom.
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 09:10:56 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:01:46 AM
Yeah they did the work and they should warranty it. What was the cause of failure the 1st time?
My engine blew up. I had oil and medal parts in the bottom.
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Z will have to correct me, but i am willing to bet $$ they did not investigate or replace the radiator on the rebuild. i do believe the radiator is a dual purpose unit and if it was shot the 1st time it may have took out the 1st block, and then the second.
Putting the tin hat on.. the GM is now faced with taking in a 'trade' he can then right off to auction and cover his ass... or explain a nearly 13k$ deficit to his regional manager.
Call the big bosses.
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:19:04 AM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 09:10:56 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:01:46 AM
Yeah they did the work and they should warranty it. What was the cause of failure the 1st time?
My engine blew up. I had oil and medal parts in the bottom.
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Z will have to correct me, but i am willing to bet $$ they did not investigate or replace the radiator on the rebuild. i do believe the radiator is a dual purpose unit and if it was shot the 1st time it may have took out the 1st block, and then the second.
Putting the tin hat on.. the GM is now faced with taking in a 'trade' he can then right off to auction and cover his ass... or explain a nearly 13k$ deficit to his regional manager.
Call the big bosses.
Radiator? That's funny you mentioned that. Coolant is mixing in with oil. Not good I think they f...up
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 09:23:15 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:19:04 AM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 09:10:56 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:01:46 AM
Yeah they did the work and they should warranty it. What was the cause of failure the 1st time?
My engine blew up. I had oil and medal parts in the bottom.
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Z will have to correct me, but i am willing to bet $$ they did not investigate or replace the radiator on the rebuild. I do believe the radiator is a dual purpose unit and if it was shot the 1st time it may have took out the 1st block, and then the second.
Putting the tin hat on.. the GM is now faced with taking in a 'trade' he can then right off to auction and cover his ass... or explain a nearly 13k$ deficit to his regional manager.
Call the big bosses.
Radiator? That's funny you mentioned that. Coolant is mixing in with oil. Not good I think they f...up
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When you mentioned the overheating due to mixed fluids it make me think of two things. They mixed coolant types (red and green = goop), or (Z correct me) there is damage to the internals of the radiator and they missed it in the rebuild.
It *SHOULD* be listed in your parts manifest from the 1st rebuild.. see if they swapped radiators.
This by the way does nothing to explain the rapid 'overboosting' .. that i do not think is really over-boosting.
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:26:45 AM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 09:23:15 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:19:04 AM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 09:10:56 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on July 09, 2018, 09:01:46 AM
Yeah they did the work and they should warranty it. What was the cause of failure the 1st time?
My engine blew up. I had oil and medal parts in the bottom.
Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
Z will have to correct me, but i am willing to bet $$ they did not investigate or replace the radiator on the rebuild. I do believe the radiator is a dual purpose unit and if it was shot the 1st time it may have took out the 1st block, and then the second.
Putting the tin hat on.. the GM is now faced with taking in a 'trade' he can then right off to auction and cover his ass... or explain a nearly 13k$ deficit to his regional manager.
Call the big bosses.
Radiator? That's funny you mentioned that. Coolant is mixing in with oil. Not good I think they f...up
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When you mentioned the overheating due to mixed fluids it make me think of two things. They mixed coolant types (red and green = goop), or (Z correct me) there is damage to the internals of the radiator and they missed it in the rebuild.
It *SHOULD* be listed in your parts manifest from the 1st rebuild.. see if they swapped radiators.
Once I get off I will take a picture of the invoices
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It seems that the Saga is growing as the days progress!!! Dunno!
I wish this was introduced on page one IMO!
The mixture of oil and coolant is certainly not a good sign and rather severe internal are to blame. Z
Quote from: ZSHO on July 09, 2018, 10:44:28 AM
I wish this was introduced on page one....It seems that the Saga is growing as the days progress!!! Dunno!
The mixture of oil and coolant is indeed not a good sign! Z
They didn't know. It was brought to my attention after. I'm lost on what to do at this moment. Uber and renting a car is getting expensive for me. I'm paying for a car that's just sitting and not being worked on. I just seen it parked in the lot. What would you do differently?
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 10:58:52 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on July 09, 2018, 10:44:28 AM
I wish this was introduced on page one....It seems that the Saga is growing as the days progress!!! Dunno!
The mixture of oil and coolant is indeed not a good sign! Z
They didn't know. It was brought to my attention after. I'm lost on what to do at this moment. Uber and renting a car is getting expensive for me. I'm paying for a car that's just sitting and not being worked on. I just seen it parked in the lot. What would you do differently?
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I really do like my car and want to keep it but I dont trust them anymore.
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I would make some phone calls to Ford corporate or Regional manager ASAP IMHO! I think your wasting much lost time! I hope i did not come off snarky! Z
Quote from: ZSHO on July 09, 2018, 11:06:57 AM
I would make some phone calls to Ford corporate or Regional manager ASAP IMHO! I think your wasting much lost time. Z
You are right bro. I'm doing that today
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 11:08:48 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on July 09, 2018, 11:06:57 AM
I would make some phone calls to Ford corporate or Regional manager ASAP IMHO! I think your wasting much lost time. Z
You are right bro. I'm doing that today
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Have all the needed documents and receipts on hand along with a Fax!! unfortunately @ this point things are not going to resolve itself,rather you will be left Hanging like a bunch of clothes to dry if you don't act quickly!!! Best of luck. Z
I contacted corporate and got a case # I have to contact this guy at the dealership with my case # what happens now?
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Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 11:37:07 AM
I contacted corporate and got a case # I have to contact this guy at the dealership with my case # what happens now?
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I have never contacted them personally but my issues were handled accordingly with the Service manager.....
FWIW @ least you got the ball rolling with the case number....
There is also an online Chat where you can ask questions on how long the process will take. Z
One may file a complaint with the Ford Motor Company by calling
1-800-392-3673 anytime between 8:00 a.m. and 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday, or between 9 a.m. and 5:30 p.m. Eastern on Saturday.
Customers who want to file a complaint in writing may write the Ford Motor Company Customer Relationship Center at P.O. Box 6248, Dearborn, MI 48126. They may also send an email through the Ford Motor Company's contact page via the Internet. Online support is also available through the
live chat option on the Ford website. Twitter service support at
@FordService may be reached Monday through Friday between 8 a.m. and 11 p.m. Eastern.
The majority of customer complaints filed on Ford Motor Company with the Better Business Bureau were resolved. The BBB found that in most of the cases that were not resolved, Ford Motor Company made an effort to resolve the complaint.
Ford has been accredited with the BBB since Oct. 1, 1927, and maintains an A+ rating with the bureau. This rating is based on the company's response to and resolution of customer complaints and the number of complaints relative to the size of the company.
Quote from: ZSHO on July 09, 2018, 04:58:09 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on July 09, 2018, 11:37:07 AM
I contacted corporate and got a case # I have to contact this guy at the dealership with my case # what happens now?
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I have never contacted them personally but my issues were handled accordingly with the Service manager.....
FWIW @ least you got the ball rolling with the case number....
There is also an online Chat where you can ask questions on how long the process will take. Z
One may file a complaint with the Ford Motor Company by calling 1-800-392-3673 anytime between 8:00 a.m. and 8:00 p.m. Eastern Time, Monday through Friday, or between 9 a.m. and 5:30 p.m. Eastern on Saturday.
Customers who want to file a complaint in writing may write the Ford Motor Company Customer Relationship Center at P.O. Box 6248, Dearborn, MI 48126. They may also send an email through the Ford Motor Company's contact page via the Internet. Online support is also available through the live chat option on the Ford website. Twitter service support at @FordService may be reached Monday through Friday between 8 a.m. and 11 p.m. Eastern.
The majority of customer complaints filed on Ford Motor Company with the Better Business Bureau were resolved. The BBB found that in most of the cases that were not resolved, Ford Motor Company made an effort to resolve the complaint.
Ford has been accredited with the BBB since Oct. 1, 1927, and maintains an A+ rating with the bureau. This rating is based on the company's response to and resolution of customer complaints and the number of complaints relative to the size of the company.
I really appreciate you taking the time to help me out brother.
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I certainly feel for you Brother and truly hope your issue is addressed accordingly!
There were a couple of incidences in the past where the age factor came to play in similar cases IIRC! But by no means stating this is the case here......Fingers crossed for ya. Z
Keep us updated...I'm anxious to know what is wrong with it...I can only think of about 4 things that can cause overboosting...and 1 thing is really unlikely
Quote from: AJP turbo on July 09, 2018, 06:25:58 PM
Keep us updated...I'm anxious to know what is wrong with it...I can only think of about 4 things that can cause overboosting...and 1 thing is really unlikely
Will do. I will take a pictures of my invoices as well. After work
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I just got a call from Ford and was told that they are changing the radiator. I am finally getting a loaner
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Radiator causing overboosting?
Quote from: AJP turbo on July 11, 2018, 11:48:07 PM
Radiator causing overboosting?
I'm sure not but it's a start
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https://youtu.be/Adphjz4u9zI
Please help! I just got my car back and its sound it again
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Did you replace the front BOV as planned prior to the dealership getting involved?
No. I did check it but it doesn't look bad at all
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You tried swapping them tho right?
I would buy a new BOV and replace the front. Small investment for such a longstanding headache.
It looks like NO one has changed the BOV! Z
Page 2
https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=9215.15 (https://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php?topic=9215.15)
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:29:57 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 01:13:57 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:05:17 PM
No! The Front & Rear ports work on vacuum and don't need hose clamps Z
So I disconnected the front connector and its not doing it no more. They do sound a lot louder.
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Thats some Awesome news !!! Thats perfectly normal and expected....
I would just order a new BOV from the ^^^ link as mentioned earlier. Z
I do have (one) extra BOV laying around! ! just trying to help ya out brother. Z
Quote from: ZSHO on August 22, 2018, 06:53:22 AM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:29:57 PM
Quote from: TASK_FORCE187 on June 17, 2018, 01:13:57 PM
Quote from: ZSHO on June 17, 2018, 01:05:17 PM
No! The Front & Rear ports work on vacuum and don't need hose clamps Z
So I disconnected the front connector and its not doing it no more. They do sound a lot louder.
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Thats some Awesome news !!! Thats perfectly normal and expected....
I would just order a new BOV from the ^^^ link as mentioned earlier. Z
I do have (one) extra BOV laying around! ! just trying to help ya out brother. Z
I really appreciate it that bro. Let me recheck them again. I will let you know. I've noticed that it's not doing it all the time. Once I turn my car off and on It acts normal. I'm thinking something electrical is wrong
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post a new datalog of the issue in a 4th gear pull .. i'd like to peek at it doing the issue for 10 or more seconds.
fixing itself on a stop start suuuuuuuux, that means a sensor is bad or sending a bad/incorrect signal, or the ecu has a bad block that clears on reboot. does it fix itself EVERYTIME you do a 35 second cycle of having the car off... and how long in the start up does it run normal before the issue occurs?
and completely random idea.. does it do it COLD. IE water temp is 110f or less, and the car is still in ''warmup mode''. does it happen there at all?
Sorry I haven't replied. Been working a lot. So I noticed that it only does it some times I'm thinking it's the ECU.
Quote from: TopherSho on August 22, 2018, 01:58:55 PM
post a new datalog of the issue in a 4th gear pull .. i'd like to peek at it doing the issue for 10 or more seconds.
fixing itself on a stop start suuuuuuuux, that means a sensor is bad or sending a bad/incorrect signal, or the ecu has a bad block that clears on reboot. does it fix itself EVERYTIME you do a 35 second cycle of having the car off... and how long in the start up does it run normal before the issue occurs?
and completely random idea.. does it do it COLD. IE water temp is 110f or less, and the car is still in ''warmup mode''. does it happen there at all?
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