Engines are supposed to be broken in from factory, or so they say. I would say they are maybe 90%+ broken in. Real world conditions simply cannot be accounted for at the factory. This is where you and your driving style comes in. The first 1,000 miles (check owners manual) is the critical part.
Drive without WOT events during that 1,000 miles. Vary the conditions as you normally would otherwise. Then change the oil with the full synthetic of your choice. Forced induction engines do not play by the same rules as naturally aspirated. They are finicky and demanding critters, relatively speaking.
The first couple of OCIs I would do 5K, Motorcraft filter should be fine. Then if the lab analysis looks good with regards to fuel dilution, and the wear metals are good (post results for analysis here), you can choose to extend to 10K. I personally would stick with the 5K interval, not wanting to take chances. Assuming normal driving conditions of course. If your driving falls in the special operating conditions category that puts fuel into the oil because of the nature of the driving, then you would want to cut back even further AND/OR go to a higher quality/weight oil that resists fuel dilution even more. Perhaps consider a catch can install, it is cheap insurance. I think it would be of more benefit with fuel dilution issues than worrying about which oil to use.
And it would not hurt to look for oils that are SN+ certified, as that certification was developed with forced induction engines in mind. So they are sturdier stock, use more magnesium instead of calcium to combat LSPI, etc. Mobil1 and Castrol already did this starting about 2013-2014, now everyone is doing it, including Amsoil, Redline (Pro series), and the SAE version of Royal Purple. Dunno if HPS has been reformulated yet or will be. Make sure you get the freshest stock possible. I have seen some stock as old as 3 years for boutique oil!