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JBL P8662 6x8 / 5x7 Power Series coaxial review (they are pretty good!)

Started by Lanson, August 19, 2013, 04:58:40 PM

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Lanson

Over the weekend I tackled the Flex's front doors, and installed these JBL coaxials. While in the doors, I also installed GT Mat (a deadening brand) Onyx and Quadro, both very good products which I'll cover in a separate review. I'll also include pictures later, when I pull the pics off my camera and upload them.

I have a 2013 Flex SEL w/ Non-Sony surround sound, standard 5x7 ovals in each door front and rear, A-pillar tweeters, 3.5" center full-range, and Exile Audio subs in a fiberglass tub box in the spare tire well. JBL MS-8 processor and Vibe Slick Stereo 4, and Bass 1 amps. Wonderful small amps BTW. The A-pillar tweets have already been upgraded to Bravox silk dome tweeters, and the center will be upgraded to a matching JBL coaxial as soon as the darn thing gets shipped to me. The battery has been upgraded to an Optima Yellow Top, that in itself an adventure.  The 4ch amp powers the front channels (left, center, right), and MS-8 powers the rear speakers and A-pillar tweeters.

These installed themselves, just about. I had the doors open to do all the Quadro and Onyx deadening, so it was no trouble to remove the stock front oval speakers and pop these babies in. These do have a unique terminal in that there's a cord connected to a connection box, from what would typically be the speaker terminals. In my case this worked out perfectly, and I was able to zip-tie this connection box (about 1/2 the length of a Snicker's bar, and about the same size around) to the factory wiring loom in the door, and everything is out of harm's way. The connection box "probably" holds a better-than-average-for-a-coaxial crossover, but I didn't pry it open to find out. The tweeters have a 0dB/-3dB cut push-button on them, and I left them at 0dB when I installed them. The tweeter is angled "up" a few degrees but because the 5x7 opening is "sideways" in my door, I installed them with that slight angle toward the cabin.

To be fair, I can't judge the high end of these speakers directly. My MS-8 settings are 3k @24dB/oct slope, with the Bravox pillar tweeters taking over. So mostly I installed these for the woofer. I can tell you that the Bravox silk tweeter and the JBL coaxial are very happy to play together, and even without recalibrating the MS-8 after installing these, the sound quality is spot-on. After I get the center channel swapped out and all the speakers broken in, I will recalibrate. I did have to put a few more clicks in the amp gain on the Slick Stereo 4 for the mids to keep up with the rest of the system, but once that was done, the front speakers had authority that was definitely unmatched by the stock speakers.

I was able to click up the midbass in the MS-8 EQ a few dB throughout the 63-100hz range, and that really made the front end sing. I'm happy I deadened the doors, I'm sure I5 would be shaking them up pretty bad if I just popped the speakers in without it. They get very, very loud without breakup (a JBL trademark IMO), and their midbass is clean and snappy, without any bad stuff. As most of us know, it is less about the speaker and more about the install, so I'll leave you to decide what's best for you. I will say that in my previous Flex, I had the 5x7 Bravox units and honestly, I like the JBL's more. Yes, I love the Bravox silk tweets from the CF component set, but the mids were lacking something the JBL fills. Instruments sound more real, and the stage is more convincing.

To sum up until I get the rest of the system done - if you need 5x7 / 6x8 speakers and you aren't interested in rebuilding your doors for something "better", consider these. They have a soft dome tweeter, a very nice magnet, solid construction all around, and they just plain work. Oh, and they are about $70-80 a pair out there. Hard to beat.
I don't have an EB but I am an avid modder and happy to help the community and learn/grow.  Pretty good with audio and wheels, my build and discussion threads are here in the forum.  2013 Flex AWD N/A

Audio:  Dayton Reference home speakers in front stage, incl. 2-way passive custom pillars 2.5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 2-way passive custom center channel 5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 8" midbass in doors, Vibe UK amps, JBL MS8 processor, Optima Yellow-top custom-wired, Exile subs in spare tire well

Mods: H&R, K&N, 22x9 & 22x10 3 piece forged wheels 265/35-22 Toyos, SCTX4 w/ 91 oct. Torrie tune

SHOdded

Pix or it didn't happen ;)  How much sound deadening material did you have to use per door, and how did you determine placement?  Definitely a great price point for JBLs.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Lanson

Quote from: SHOdded on August 19, 2013, 06:04:49 PM
Pix or it didn't happen ;)  How much sound deadening material did you have to use per door, and how did you determine placement?  Definitely a great price point for JBLs.



Don't worry I'll get pics. 

I used 4 sq foot of Quadro and 2 sq foot of Onyx per inner door, some 26 gauge steel to cover some of the holes in the door, with butyl rope decoupling.  On the outer skin I used another 2 sq foot of Onyx and one sq foot of Quadro.  Coverage was almost 100% in the inner skin and 25% on the outer roughly. 
I don't have an EB but I am an avid modder and happy to help the community and learn/grow.  Pretty good with audio and wheels, my build and discussion threads are here in the forum.  2013 Flex AWD N/A

Audio:  Dayton Reference home speakers in front stage, incl. 2-way passive custom pillars 2.5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 2-way passive custom center channel 5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 8" midbass in doors, Vibe UK amps, JBL MS8 processor, Optima Yellow-top custom-wired, Exile subs in spare tire well

Mods: H&R, K&N, 22x9 & 22x10 3 piece forged wheels 265/35-22 Toyos, SCTX4 w/ 91 oct. Torrie tune

Lanson

Here's some pics of my fun

Stock speaker with built-in crossover for tweeters, now all been rewired


Dropping some Quadro in, easy product to work with.




Some Onyx in there too.  Quadro is closest to the speaker, Onyx was used on the outskirts of the door where the metal is stronger due to shaping and the fold around the door.



Here's the JBL installed.  Super easy


I don't have an EB but I am an avid modder and happy to help the community and learn/grow.  Pretty good with audio and wheels, my build and discussion threads are here in the forum.  2013 Flex AWD N/A

Audio:  Dayton Reference home speakers in front stage, incl. 2-way passive custom pillars 2.5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 2-way passive custom center channel 5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 8" midbass in doors, Vibe UK amps, JBL MS8 processor, Optima Yellow-top custom-wired, Exile subs in spare tire well

Mods: H&R, K&N, 22x9 & 22x10 3 piece forged wheels 265/35-22 Toyos, SCTX4 w/ 91 oct. Torrie tune

SHOdded

Nice pix!  Did you upgrade the wiring to these speakers (power/signal)?  I was wondering how they might sound with mostly factory wiring in place.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Lanson

Quote from: SHOdded on August 20, 2013, 03:55:16 AM
Nice pix!  Did you upgrade the wiring to these speakers (power/signal)?  I was wondering how they might sound with mostly factory wiring in place.

Speaker wire was left as-is, on the basis that it won't change the sound one bit.  I debated this one for a bit, but I decided to break out the raw math on this one.  The speaker wire isn't too small (18-20 gauge would be my guess), for the distance it travels through the looms which is about 6 feet maximum, AND couple the fact this rated as a 2 ohm speaker, that means the additional wiring resistance actually works in my favor, this time. 

Never let someone fool you, unless you are trying to power something beyond 100W or something, the factory wiring is "just fine" mathematically and acoustically transparent.  Meaning, in an ABX test you'd not be able to detect the difference well enough to actually say "hey, that's factory wiring!"  :)
I don't have an EB but I am an avid modder and happy to help the community and learn/grow.  Pretty good with audio and wheels, my build and discussion threads are here in the forum.  2013 Flex AWD N/A

Audio:  Dayton Reference home speakers in front stage, incl. 2-way passive custom pillars 2.5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 2-way passive custom center channel 5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 8" midbass in doors, Vibe UK amps, JBL MS8 processor, Optima Yellow-top custom-wired, Exile subs in spare tire well

Mods: H&R, K&N, 22x9 & 22x10 3 piece forged wheels 265/35-22 Toyos, SCTX4 w/ 91 oct. Torrie tune

Kolk1

Heads up, im MECP certified, and do stereos for living. Unless doing a high RMS system, or just wanting to do a complete bypass of a factory bose/monsoon/infinity system, theres no reason to rewire door speakers. Factory wiring can handle 50rms no problem.

I personally understand why people do 5x7/6x8s for the simple drop in project. BUT if you change vehicles often, just bite the bullet and buy one set of High end 6.5 components, and just make plates, and move them car to car. Ive learned my lesson, I dont buy a new set of $100 for each car, I bought a set of Hertz HSK165XLs, and will transfer them from car to car. Unless I damage them, im done buying new speakers. lol


Lanson

Quote from: Kolk1 on August 20, 2013, 10:47:59 AM
Heads up, im MECP certified, and do stereos for living. Unless doing a high RMS system, or just wanting to do a complete bypass of a factory bose/monsoon/infinity system, theres no reason to rewire door speakers. Factory wiring can handle 50rms no problem.

I personally understand why people do 5x7/6x8s for the simple drop in project. BUT if you change vehicles often, just bite the bullet and buy one set of High end 6.5 components, and just make plates, and move them car to car. Ive learned my lesson, I dont buy a new set of $100 for each car, I bought a set of Hertz HSK165XLs, and will transfer them from car to car. Unless I damage them, im done buying new speakers. lol




Exactly right on the speaker wire.  Re: the speaker size, I agree but also conditionally disagree.  A 6" has less cone area therefore a little less potential (all else being equal) than a 5x7.  About 10-15% if going by "sd" in the T/S params in some cases.  A 6.5" will usually also fit, and is about equal but sometimes will be a fit problem, if things are tight.  7" will rarely fit, without some cutting.

For the much more esoteric in viewpoint of this, I refer you to "Patrick Bateman", the regular poster at DIYMA, DIY (home) Audio, and a few other audio-centric web forums out there.  The man has been doing incredible work with odd shaped speakers amongst other projects (like the Geddes research), and has very stout evidence that oval speakers have MORE potential than cone, for a multitude of reasons.  I remember one of the big reasons being the beaming effect as the speaker is actually two sizes in one, therefore has a "waveguide" of sorts depending on which way it is aimed.  Very interesting!  There's also non-linear distortion, minimized by the shape.  I used to think otherwise until I read his research, as I said.

Up until I dived headfirst into his research, I was a big believer in doing exactly what you recommend.  I had 6.5-7" H-Audio, Acoustic Elegance, and Exodus Audio drivers in various 5x7 holes in various Ford vehicles I've owned over the years, and they were all great.  A LOT of work but great nonetheless.  some required cutting metal, some just making proper baffles.  BTW, NEVER make them out of MDF wood unless you want to replace rotted mush sometime in the near future. 

Ford apparently is shifting away from 5x7/6x8's I hear. 


http://www.diysoundgroup.com/anarchy-pre-order.html
Oh and if I were going to the trouble to make 6.5" fit, I would be ordering some of these:


OR
http://gr-research.com/m165xwoofer-2.aspx


Paired with an A-pillar 3-4" mid w/ tweeter, example the FR89EX and Vifa 1" silk dome, in fiberglassed pillars. 


And I could do those things, but honestly it sounds like it could win a car show right now, I question how much better it could sound even with all this extra work.  :)


Who knows, maybe the upgrade bug will bite me in the ass again and I'll do exactly that.
I don't have an EB but I am an avid modder and happy to help the community and learn/grow.  Pretty good with audio and wheels, my build and discussion threads are here in the forum.  2013 Flex AWD N/A

Audio:  Dayton Reference home speakers in front stage, incl. 2-way passive custom pillars 2.5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 2-way passive custom center channel 5" mid, 3/4" tweet, 8" midbass in doors, Vibe UK amps, JBL MS8 processor, Optima Yellow-top custom-wired, Exile subs in spare tire well

Mods: H&R, K&N, 22x9 & 22x10 3 piece forged wheels 265/35-22 Toyos, SCTX4 w/ 91 oct. Torrie tune

Kolk1

While all good points, some people argue very extensively that a oval speaker doesn't have as good as SQ as a round speaker compared to an oval. I don't really care, or have done any research on it personally, but my main point for 6.5s is they are FAR more common so you have way better choices, and will will more often than not fit in your next vehicle compared to let's say, a 6x9.

And yes, I typically make my brackets out of 1/4inch ABS plastic, then sound deaden around the speaker. That picture I posted above was when I was just test fitting and no deadening had been done to the skin or frame yet. I personally sell dynomat, so that's what I use.