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Lookin for some feedback on my catch-can setup

Started by Agentlongwood, June 14, 2018, 10:13:50 PM

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Agentlongwood

Alrighty, so I never liked the way catch cans are configured for our cars.  They seemed oddly complex, with the T-junctions and what not.  So I put some thought into it and connected a system in a way that I think is better.  Coming to you guys to tell me if I've done something catastrophic by mistake, lol.  So this setup does not need a clean side separator, and it allows you to keep the original oil cap in place.  All the lines are 1/2inch fuel hose, squeezed onto the Ford factory plastic connectors.  It uses no T-fittings, and 2 check valves.  The check valves are not in the usual place though.  I took some pics and labeled the lines to walk you through what I've done.



Line A: Vapors come out of the dirty side and into the center fitting on the catch can.  No need for a check since the PCV unit itself only allows vapors to come out, not in.

Line B: The first vacuum source at the intake manifold, connected to the rightmost fitting on the catch can.  Check valve installed so that when the motor gets under boost it isn't sending boost into the can.

Line C: Second vacuum source.  Connected from the leftmost fitting on the catch can, to the front BOV re-circulation point.  No need for a check valve since this is before the turbo.  Therefore it is never pressurized, and always under vacuum (though the amount of vacuum changes).  At idle it is a teeny but of vacuum, and under boost it provides more vacuum.

Clean side intake: The clean side is where I made the biggest change from the usual setup.  I wanted a source of fresh air for the crank case, without drilling the intake or buying a clean-side separator, or any of that stuff.  So I put an air filter on the factory clean side connection.  But since I wanted it to ONLY allow clean air into the crank case, and not burp oil out, I put the filter at the end of a short section of hose with a check valve in the middle.  There fore nothing comes out of that line, only fresh air in.

So it goes like this.  Fresh air is sucked into the clean side without anything being allowed to flow back out.  It comes out the dirty via Line A and into the can.  Vacuum supplied by lines B and C at idle, and when under boost by Line C only.  But how do you drain the can?  Well I'm glad you asked.  I ran a line from the drain on the bottom of the can, down next to the washer reservoir, and installed a valve at the end under the car.  You can't really see the line from the engine bay, but here is where I put the drain valve.



From that angle, it looks like it hangs really low, but it isn't actually that far.  If you look at it dead on from the side it's maybe 1 inch lower than the lip.

Here are a couple more reference photos





I checked all the connections by to make sure air only flows the direction I want it to.  And yes... I checked by putting my mouth on the hoses and blowing out and in.  Everything flows correctly and you cannot blow the "wrong" direction in any of the lines.

So what do yall think?  Any reason why this setup wouldn't work?  I think I covered all my bases in regards to connections and flow direction... but I'm new at this so any feedback is appreciated.  If I did screw something up, I'm gunna be real mad because this setup cost me a trip to the urgent care.  I cut my left index finger REEAAALLL bad with some garden shears when I was trimming the fuel hoses to length.  I did not feel smart at that moment.

2014 Lincoln MKS - Sold... And I still miss it sometimes

SHOdded

Hope your finger heals quickly!  Almost nothing about cars that is worth doing comes without its share of blood donations.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Agentlongwood

Quote from: SHOdded on June 14, 2018, 10:16:56 PM
Hope your finger heals quickly!

Actually I was lazy in getting around to posting this.  I've had it hooked up for weeks.  Wanted to give it time to make sure nothing broke or blew off.  My finger is healed, but it left a pretty sweet looking scar on my finger, lol.
2014 Lincoln MKS - Sold... And I still miss it sometimes

ZSHO

#3
NICE ! I would just Monitor the amount of oil that comes from the CSS - to -Filter! I hope you catch a whopper .  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

Agentlongwood

Quote from: ZSHO on June 15, 2018, 06:42:32 AM
I would just Monitor the amount of oil that comes from the CSS - to -Filter!

So far there has been zero oil that got to the filter.  It's my daily driver and it's been a few weeks, so I believe the check valve is working properly to prevent anything from coming out of the clean side.  Technically not running a CSS.  Just a breather filter after the check valve in the line.
2014 Lincoln MKS - Sold... And I still miss it sometimes

Agentlongwood

So any thoughts on the setup itself?  It does require running the BOVs in vent-to-atmosphere, but other than that it's quick and easy.  Just want yall to double check that there's nothing obviously wrong with it.
2014 Lincoln MKS - Sold... And I still miss it sometimes

glock-coma

Your setup looks good as far as I can tell.
The only thing I would keep an eye is the clean side filter.
Having it lower than the valve cover will allow oil to collect in the hose and possibly saturate the filter media.
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

ZSHO

The Hose clamps are a bit sharp which can poteniate to another injured finger! I would of went with the T-bolts clamps.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

Agentlongwood

Agreed about the clamps.  They were what I had laying about... but they are a bit crap.  Don't look very nice either, lol.  I'll get around to replacing them at some point.
2014 Lincoln MKS - Sold... And I still miss it sometimes

ThePresidential

#9
Without a check valve on line c, from can to air inlet hose, wouldnt it impede on full evacuation from the dirty side during idle? Where vacuum at idle would be pulling from both lines a and c so you wouldnt  be getting full suction. Where if there was a check valve vacuum would only pull from line a?
2013 Lincoln MKS Ecoboost | Oil breather | spectre CAI | Needing to install catch cans | 160 thermostat |