Possible misfire on cold starts question.

[DstryEvrytng]

And my SHO saga continues.

Brakes acting ike worse than not having power brakes and the abs seems to be dragging. Almost no stopping power at all and with the brakes dragging. Really odd.

Almost rear ended a tractor, had to get a tow. Flat bed luckily.

[ZSHO]

It could be the brake booster line check valve!  Who changed the spark plugs!
    There is a vacuum line near the rear spark plugs on bank 2!
I hope they get it fixed Pronto! Please keep us updated.  Z

Highlighted in Red below!

[DstryEvrytng]

I had my normal mech change the plugs who has done a lot of work on other vehicles for me with zero issues. I trust him 100%.

Is that booster line close to that driver side rear plug?
Id be very suprised if he f'd it up. Ive put 500+ miles on since he changed the plugs with no problems untill this morning.

Edit = your pic just now showed up for me. I guess that line could have gotten knocked around.

Its at the stealer now so ill update when i find out wtf is going on.

Edit 2= if the brake booster had a leak the brakes wouldnt drag though right? Just loose power?

[ZSHO]

I had my normal mech change the plugs who has done a lot of work on other vehicles for me with zero issues. I trust him 100%.

Is that booster line close to that driver side rear plug?
Id be very suprised if he f'd it up. Ive put 500+ miles on since he changed the plugs with no problems untill this morning.

Edit = your pic just now showed up for me. I guess that line could have gotten knocked around.

Its at the stealer now so ill update when i find out wtf is going on.

Edit 2= if the brake booster had a leak the brakes wouldnt drag though right? Just loose power?

It would feel like metal to metal contact depending how severe !  Z

[DstryEvrytng]

It did kinda feel and act like there was no pad left on all corners.  Shyt, time to go talk to my mech i guess.

It also felt like they where dragging. And after maybe 5-10 minutes of me calling the wife and stuff i felt the rotors and the fronts i could only touch for a cpl seconds. In my hot o meter thats way too hot (for the circumstance and braking i did to get the car off the road).  the rears where also really hot/ way hotter than i think they should be unless dragging.

The first dash lamp that lit was the ABS. I didnt look again untill it was safe to do so and by then the big red "fix the brakes now" message was lit.

[ZSHO]

It did kinda feel and act like there was no pad left on all corners.  Shyt, time to go talk to my mech i guess.

It also felt like they where dragging. And after maybe 5-10 minutes of me calling the wife and stuff i felt the rotors and the fronts i could only touch for a cpl seconds. In my hot o meter thats way too hot (for the circumstance and braking i did to get the car off the road).  the rears where also really hot/ way hotter than i think they should be unless dragging.

The first dash lamp that lit was the ABS. I didnt look again untill it was safe to do so and by then the big red "fix the brakes now" message was lit.

The main issue is thankfully no one was injured during this ordeal!!!
I wonder if the Hose connectors were properly secured into the manifold!!  Z

[DstryEvrytng]

Thankfully i was behind a very slow moving tractor so if worse came to worse (it almost did) the only one hurt would have been the front of the SHO. Probly the intercooler and rad since the tractor was towing a menacing looking 1.5 lane wide land ripper. Lol. Another 5 mph or another car length closer and the car would need a nose job.

I am also wondering that. If the mech removed that line (idk why he would have) when changing the plugs then it makes sense. I do drive a five mile stretch of really rough pavement twice a day so if something was loose there is a bery good chance the road finished it off.

I appreciate the concern of no one being hurt btw. Man id be not happy if i was driving like an a$$ and rear ended someone with a kid in the car.

Also. Your engine top is about as pretty as i imagine a sho's could be. A polished intake manifold is the only thing i think that could make it any better.

[DstryEvrytng]

It could be the brake booster line check valve!  Who changed the spark plugs!
    There is a vacuum line near the rear spark plugs on bank 2!
I hope they get it fixed Pronto! Please keep us updated.  Z

Highlighted in Red below!

Dealer just called and you nailed it. Brake booster vaccuum leak. The desk lady couldnt specify where the leak was but thats not really a question anymore at this point.

Now i will talk to my mech soon and explain the problem i had and ask if he removed that line when changing the plugs. Then etc... ugh

Thanks Z 
If i had to fix it myself it would have been done roadside after a cpl posts here!

[ZSHO]

Its my pleasure DstryEvrytng!    I was curious if the Ford dealer was able to check out the misfire,rough idle issue!  Z

[DstryEvrytng]

Now that its in the sixty degree temps ar night it has been cold idleing fine. Of course it idles fine while its at the dealer. Lol.

They are just keeping the car because it was going in on monday to replace those seals anyways. Im stuck with an n/a escape. Man ii thought the ecoboost escapes are slow, this thing barely moves. Haha

[DstryEvrytng]

As far as the miss goes i think this guy may be onto something.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=baWZjtb3QlY&start_radio=1&list=RDbaWZjtb3QlY

In the diesel world (my old realm) fords ccv system caused all sorts of problems. Basically the vented air/oil mix was clogging up cold air charge pipes. So guys vented to atmosphere which in turn wouldnt vent enough because of no pressure from boost/ too long to elaborate much on that.

I never had idle problems (beside injector stiction, damn heui system) with the 6leaker. These dirty maps in the 3.5 tho could most deff cause air fuel problems imo.

Now i just need to find the maps on the transverse mounted beast to see if they are all oily.

[SHOdded]

One is on top of the intake manifold smack dab in the middle, the other is mounted vertically on the side of the throttle body/cac outlet pipe.  Might as well clean the iat sensor too, mounted at the airbox.

You likely have a sensor on the cleanside pcv line, idk if it can be cleaned, but worth a look.

[LostnEye]

These dirty maps in the 3.5 tho could most deff cause air fuel problems imo.

Mine has done it and cleaning the MAPs seems to help the most. The one on top of the intake will end up looking dirty while the one by the throttle body not so much.  Doesn't hurt to clean both and the IAT as SHOdded mentioned as well. They are easy enough o get too.

[DstryEvrytng]

Got the car back today. After 7 days in the shop.

They said the ptu leak was from an "rf axle seal" and suposedly replaced. To me that means right front axle seal but the ptu was leaking from the rear output. Idk, i havent been under this thing ywt but im going to need too asap.

The brake booster leak was due to the vent tube at the intake coming off. As that is an stc fitting ill hafta blame that on my mech that changed the plugs.

New thing now though. I started cleaning the sensors to chase down the missfire, which it still has just not as noticable due to warmer weather. And found this T20 screw missing and obviously the shaft was broken off and the hole filled, milled and just left like that.
Wtf?? Im about to sperg out on the dealer.

Edit= Cleaning the pictured sensor on top of the intake and the big one on the cac tube did fix the missfire. So thats a win.

[SHOdded]

Ford has been using a single screw to hold the MAP sensor onto the intake for many a MY now.  I think as far back as 2011?  Perfectly normal.

Cheap fix for the misfire is a big WIN as is the BB leak fix.

Hope the rear output seal is not leaking!  Clean up with brake cleaner and see if it reappears.