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Lowering intake temps.. ?

Started by TopherSho, April 29, 2017, 05:45:57 PM

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TopherSho

Other than dubious cold air mods, and pulling engine bay weather striping does anyone have any ideas on dropping engine bay temps?

And old school trick was to cut vent slats out of the inner wheel wheel, using tire rotation to pull air out and allowing more air to flow lower in the engine bay.

But beyond that I cannot think of how to drop IAT temps by 20f ..
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

StealBlueSho


TopherSho

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

FoMoCoSHO


AJP turbo

There's more to it than lowering iat...the problem is iat2(manifold air temp)...so even if you were ingesting super cold air, the tiny turbos trying to create 15 psi and 40 pounds per minute of air heats the intake air back up and the intercooler is simply not efficient enough to cool it back down
SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

TopherSho

Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on April 29, 2017, 10:02:11 PM
Got E85?

I have definitely considered before even buy the car the thought of going full e85 at some point.  maybe when there is not much warranty left.

it will be spendy though,  so I may do it in a different rig that is more complaint to the conversion.

For this one we'd need a a new pump, injector, probably fuel lines..rails ?? For the cost of the car when bought it becomes a lesser value ..  by the time my warranty is down to a year second gen SHO's will be super cheap and they come with a number of e85 compliant parts right off the bat. 

dunno  for 650ish whp there are easier options though.  time and my wife will have to dictate :P


2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

92BlackGT

Quote from: TopherSho on April 30, 2017, 12:55:22 AM
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on April 29, 2017, 10:02:11 PM
Got E85?

I have definitely considered before even buy the car the thought of going full e85 at some point.  maybe when there is not much warranty left.

it will be spendy though,  so I may do it in a different rig that is more complaint to the conversion.

For this one we'd need a a new pump, injector, probably fuel lines..rails ?? For the cost of the car when bought it becomes a lesser value ..  by the time my warranty is down to a year second gen SHO's will be super cheap and they come with a number of e85 compliant parts right off the bat. 

dunno  for 650ish whp there are easier options though.  time and my wife will have to dictate :P

no need to run full E85, do a mix up to E30 on the stock fuel system and still enjoy some benefits. I can get 94 octane (plus cooling effects of the extra E) out of my E20 mix (E0 91 and E85). I ran my 12.91 with a DA of 2500 or 2700... somewhere way up high (track elevation is just under 1200 ft)
'14 Taurus SHO - non PP, Unleashed E20 tune, 3 bar - 12.91 @ 106.5 mph
'93 Mustang Coupe - AFR 165's, FTI cam, ported Cobra intake - 13.05 @ 105.6 mph

StealBlueSho

Quote from: TopherSho on April 30, 2017, 12:55:22 AM
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on April 29, 2017, 10:02:11 PM
Got E85?

I have definitely considered before even buy the car the thought of going full e85 at some point.  maybe when there is not much warranty left.

it will be spendy though,  so I may do it in a different rig that is more complaint to the conversion.

For this one we'd need a a new pump, injector, probably fuel lines..rails ?? For the cost of the car when bought it becomes a lesser value ..  by the time my warranty is down to a year second gen SHO's will be super cheap and they come with a number of e85 compliant parts right off the bat. 

dunno  for 650ish whp there are easier options though.  time and my wife will have to dictate :P


Actually.... all that is required to run full E85 is the new extreme duty fuel pump that is going to be released by LMS and Extreme-DI... along with the proper tune....

However, until someone comes out with a kit to beef up the transmission/ptu/rdu setup then 650awd hp at the wheels is gonna be very risky.

FoMoCoSHO

I'm at E45 now with a preliminary log showing strong rail pressure.....

Stay tuned....

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

TopherSho

Quote from: 92BlackGT on May 01, 2017, 08:32:11 AM
Quote from: TopherSho on April 30, 2017, 12:55:22 AM
Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on April 29, 2017, 10:02:11 PM
Got E85?

I have definitely considered before even buy the car the thought of going full e85 at some point.  maybe when there is not much warranty left.

it will be spendy though,  so I may do it in a different rig that is more complaint to the conversion.

For this one we'd need a a new pump, injector, probably fuel lines..rails ?? For the cost of the car when bought it becomes a lesser value ..  by the time my warranty is down to a year second gen SHO's will be super cheap and they come with a number of e85 compliant parts right off the bat. 

dunno  for 650ish whp there are easier options though.  time and my wife will have to dictate :P

no need to run full E85, do a mix up to E30 on the stock fuel system and still enjoy some benefits. I can get 94 octane (plus cooling effects of the extra E) out of my E20 mix (E0 91 and E85). I ran my 12.91 with a DA of 2500 or 2700... somewhere way up high (track elevation is just under 1200 ft)

If I could pump my own gas i'd be all over a E15,e20,e25 tune. In a heartbeat.. 

My pump and rails seem pretty good.  BUT I would have to have the Gas jockey understand what the heck I was saying.   as it is I have to eagle eye the dam attendants to make sure they put in 92 as it is.  it is too much hassle :( ..

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TopherSho

Quote from: FoMoCoSHO on May 01, 2017, 10:21:42 AM
I'm at E45 now with a preliminary log showing strong rail pressure.....

Stay tuned....

Holy crap..
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

lamrith

I can see now how IAT2 can be an issue.  Cold this am, <50*, but after a 20min easy drive to work mine was 105* and while I sat there letting the turbos cool a bit before shutdown(habit from old days), I watched the IAT2 climb 2-3* per minute just at idle..

I did notice the temps drop when the car is moving, but staging in staging lines could make for a really hot IAT temp before you get to the line to start.  Cooler temps from moving air not hit until you were 1/4 way down track likely and by then you got boost heat coming in hard anyway so too little to late...

Got me wondering...  Maybe some sort of supplemental small fan to mount on the Intercooler up front that could even be set to run when the car is off?  No air going thru it at that point, but cooler get the metal intercooler, the better and worst case forcing air thru at idle keeping it from just heat soaking?
'13 Sho PP, SCT x4, AJP 92-Octane rev6 (14psi&20spark) NGK 6510, 3Bar, K&N CAI, PPE Catted DP, Dynomax Axleback, 20*9.5 Voxx Lago w/ 275/40-20 GMAX AS-05.

TopherSho

Quote from: lamrith on May 01, 2017, 12:22:20 PM
I can see now how IAT2 can be an issue.  Cold this am, <50*, but after a 20min easy drive to work mine was 105* and while I sat there letting the turbos cool a bit before shutdown(habit from old days), I watched the IAT2 climb 2-3* per minute just at idle..

I did notice the temps drop when the car is moving, but staging in staging lines could make for a really hot IAT temp before you get to the line to start.  Cooler temps from moving air not hit until you were 1/4 way down track likely and by then you got boost heat coming in hard anyway so too little to late...

Got me wondering...  Maybe some sort of supplemental small fan to mount on the Intercooler up front that could even be set to run when the car is off?  No air going thru it at that point, but cooler get the metal intercooler, the better and worst case forcing air thru at idle keeping it from just heat soaking?

Since this is a manifold issue,  I assume this is good old heat soak from the block to the material of the manifold itself.   Were we NA longitudinal blocks we'd be icing between runs to compensate.  But since we have all the crap on top we cant ice (and i would not),  I gave the fan a thought.. it would help with actual condenser .. but i'm not sure of the payoff, VS the time to tear it all apart to install it.  And for the perfectionist in me,  unless I could wire it to my dash perfectly I probably would not do it.

Now if there is a kit (that i have not looked for) that would allow me to share the AMPS for the AirCon and power a set of fans on the condenser .. without risk to the wiring .. maybe. 

But (in my head) once your moving more than 30mph i imagine that natural air coming in would be enough to cool the charge better than CFM limited fans..  (someone correct me otherwise)

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TopherSho

Quote from: TopherSho on May 01, 2017, 12:51:16 PM
Quote from: lamrith on May 01, 2017, 12:22:20 PM
I can see now how IAT2 can be an issue.  Cold this am, <50*, but after a 20min easy drive to work mine was 105* and while I sat there letting the turbos cool a bit before shutdown(habit from old days), I watched the IAT2 climb 2-3* per minute just at idle..

I did notice the temps drop when the car is moving, but staging in staging lines could make for a really hot IAT temp before you get to the line to start.  Cooler temps from moving air not hit until you were 1/4 way down track likely and by then you got boost heat coming in hard anyway so too little to late...

Got me wondering...  Maybe some sort of supplemental small fan to mount on the Intercooler up front that could even be set to run when the car is off?  No air going thru it at that point, but cooler get the metal intercooler, the better and worst case forcing air thru at idle keeping it from just heat soaking?

Since this is a manifold issue,  I assume this is good old heat soak from the block to the material of the manifold itself.   Were we NA longitudinal blocks we'd be icing between runs to compensate.  But since we have all the crap on top we cant ice (and i would not),  I gave the fan a thought.. it would help with actual condenser .. but i'm not sure of the payoff, VS the time to tear it all apart to install it.  And for the perfectionist in me,  unless I could wire it to my dash perfectly I probably would not do it.

Now if there is a kit (that i have not looked for) that would allow me to share the AMPS for the AirCon and power a set of fans on the condenser .. without risk to the wiring .. maybe. 

But (in my head) once your moving more than 30mph i imagine that natural air coming in would be enough to cool the charge better than CFM limited fans..  (someone correct me otherwise)

What i am curious about is, is there a better way to push air to the condenser .. without compromising airflow to the radiator. 
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction