Question about Returning Tuned Car back to stock w/mild Mods for service

[MarkC.]

Scenario:

2014 Stock MKS with 36.5K and CPO remainder of 6yr 100K (I posted on the newbie thread w/pics)
Want to do LMS 93 octane tune with 170*, 3Bar, Plugs, possibly CAI...
Question:
If I revert back to stock (tune) for service, do I need to mess (remove and replace w/stock) with the TSTAT and 3Bar every time? sounds like a PIA...

Thanks in advance...This forum is great.

[FearlessAZ]

As far as I know, you should only need to change the 3bar. And that is pretty quick and painless.

[SHOdded]

^ Ditto.  Stock tune + 2 bar.

[derfdog15]

Ase everyone else said, stock tune and 2 bar. Can leave the stat in there, UNLESS it is a service that it will be removed in which case you would want to swap to OEM so that no questions are raised.

If you do a CAI you will want to swap that back as well.

What service are you talking about btw? If things like Oil Change, Plugs, etc. (regular maintenance), or even brakes, you can do the jobs yourself and save some cash, and not have to change anything around under the hood.

[MarkC.]

Ase everyone else said, stock tune and 2 bar. Can leave the stat in there, UNLESS it is a service that it will be removed in which case you would want to swap to OEM so that no questions are raised.

If you do a CAI you will want to swap that back as well.

What service are you talking about btw? If things like Oil Change, Plugs, etc. (regular maintenance), or even brakes, you can do the jobs yourself and save some cash, and not have to change anything around under the hood.

Just talking about any service that may fall within the remainder of the CPO warranty.
Thanks for info.


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[Ramairetransam]

3 bar takes seconds to swap , dont do a cai , no gains .

[StealBlueSho]

3 bar takes seconds to swap , dont do a cai , no gains .

Interesting debate on the CAI... while it's true that peak hp/tq numbers are same... I believe LMS has stated that there are small gains under the curve if you will if you are tuned....

Still, not worth the money... most people are seeing good ETs with just a KN drop in filter...

[derfdog15]

3 bar takes seconds to swap , dont do a cai , no gains .

Interesting debate on the CAI... while it's true that peak hp/tq numbers are same... I believe LMS has stated that there are small gains under the curve if you will if you are tuned....

Still, not worth the money... most people are seeing good ETs with just a KN drop in filter...

I think CAI and axle backs/catback on the SHO are in the same boat. Do them for the sound if you want, you may see small performance gains, but mainly an auditory/asthetic mod.

I know my engine bay looks a lot nicer with the Airaid, and car sounds mean with my axle backs. I also know my axle backs did nothing for performance given that I ran stock times with them. I never ran my car without CAI and probably won't, but saw the same times as people with stock CAIs and a tune.

If you can get one cheap and you want it, my advice is do it, if you want max power, do a drop in, and put the CAI money towards downpipes.

[Blackhawk]

I change everything back except plugs.  Also trying to see how fast I can go without the t-stat. Changing it makes such a freaking mess your car is bound to reek of antifreeze.

[derfdog15]

I change everything back except plugs.  Also trying to see how fast I can go without the t-stat. Changing it makes such a freaking mess your car is bound to reek of antifreeze.

Not really....

I lost ~ 1 cup of coolant total, because I didn't wait the full recommended time to do mine. Spilled a little on the block that I couldnt get to. Some on my garage floor as well. I had an anitfreeze smell for all of about 20 minutes. I wiped my block down and the rest burnt off. Mind you, I swapped mine in ~20 degree ambient temps, so I ran my heat a decent amount after the swap.

As for speed with a stat, its not needed to go faster, but it gives you more consistency and some see lower KR with one installed.

[MarkC.]

I change everything back except plugs.  Also trying to see how fast I can go without the t-stat. Changing it makes such a freaking mess your car is bound to reek of antifreeze.

Not really....

I lost ~ 1 cup of coolant total, because I didn't wait the full recommended time to do mine. Spilled a little on the block that I couldnt get to. Some on my garage floor as well. I had an anitfreeze smell for all of about 20 minutes. I wiped my block down and the rest burnt off. Mind you, I swapped mine in ~20 degree ambient temps, so I ran my heat a decent amount after the swap.

As for speed with a stat, its not needed to go faster, but it gives you more consistency and some see lower KR with one installed.

Anyone here ever run the Evans "waterless" lifetime coolant? Says that the boiling point is in the 375 degrees or something like that.


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[derfdog15]

I change everything back except plugs.  Also trying to see how fast I can go without the t-stat. Changing it makes such a freaking mess your car is bound to reek of antifreeze.

Not really....

I lost ~ 1 cup of coolant total, because I didn't wait the full recommended time to do mine. Spilled a little on the block that I couldnt get to. Some on my garage floor as well. I had an anitfreeze smell for all of about 20 minutes. I wiped my block down and the rest burnt off. Mind you, I swapped mine in ~20 degree ambient temps, so I ran my heat a decent amount after the swap.

As for speed with a stat, its not needed to go faster, but it gives you more consistency and some see lower KR with one installed.

Anyone here ever run the Evans "waterless" lifetime coolant? Says that the boiling point is in the 375 degrees or something like that.


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May be worthwhile to make a post in the Oil and Fluids section (http://www.ecoboostperformanceforum.com/index.php/board,178.0.html)

FWIW when I read the Ford service manual, as well as my T-stat recommendations, 50/50 is generally more than adequate, unless you live in super frigid climates (more antifreeze needed) or in super hot climates (more water needed). The MAX for recommended range wise was 40/60 - 60/40. I run ~ 45-48/55-57 antifreeze to water in mine since doing the T-stat swap

[Blackhawk]

That's great if your car is actually still running but if it can't start there is going to be antifreeze sitting somewhere if you can't drive it long enough to burn it off.

I change everything back except plugs.  Also trying to see how fast I can go without the t-stat. Changing it makes such a freaking mess your car is bound to reek of antifreeze.

Not really....

I lost ~ 1 cup of coolant total, because I didn't wait the full recommended time to do mine. Spilled a little on the block that I couldnt get to. Some on my garage floor as well. I had an anitfreeze smell for all of about 20 minutes. I wiped my block down and the rest burnt off. Mind you, I swapped mine in ~20 degree ambient temps, so I ran my heat a decent amount after the swap.

As for speed with a stat, its not needed to go faster, but it gives you more consistency and some see lower KR with one installed.

[SHOdded]

The Evans has been mostly "hype" even though it was well-introduced by Jay Leno.  Maybe in racing applications?  It seems today's production engines are trending towards COOLER operating temps, so I dunno if a coolant with a higher boiling point would be of value.  It could definitely help to prevent metallurgical issues that water introduces, tho.  In an emergency, needing to add coolant, would be up a creek tho, so you would have to carry around an extra gallon always.

Plus $$$.

[SHOdded]

That's great if your car is actually still running but if it can't start there is going to be antifreeze sitting somewhere if you can't drive it long enough to burn it off.

Just hose it all off, LOL!  I hear the bellypan makes a great place to store oil and whatnots.