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How to: A-Pillar Gauge Pod build

Started by dr.dodge, January 17, 2017, 11:25:25 PM

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dr.dodge

Hello ya'll,

So a few months back I asked here on the forum whether anybody knows a vendor who can install a dual gauge pod on an A-pillar for our cars. So the answer was no and I had to fabricate one for my vehicle. So I went to a local shop for them to custom work what I was interested in. The quote I got was absurd ($600) and that was for just doing the fiberglass bonding without the upholstery work. So with some reading on the process I went and bought the materials needed to do this mini-project. I started my research on this forum. As far as I know only two people attempted to do this before me; bpd1151 and Geswek. Your posts were very helpful in getting started on this project!
Anyhow, here I will try to walk you through what I did to achieve this outcome. I am not sure if this could be considered a how to for the subject in matter but would like to let you all know that I am by NO means an expert and I am sure my process has some limitations, however, the output is good and received a lot of compliments thus far. This can help anybody who is interested in starting a mini-project, which turned out to be an enjoyable one, for sure. So here it goes...

First, you need to buy three things:
a- Universal dual gauge pod ($14.99) through this website. http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/Universal-Dual-Gauge-A-Pillar-Pod.aspx

b- Bondo Fiberglass repair kit ($15) from any auto or hardware store. Like this one.



c- Bondo fiberglass filler ($7.99).

While waiting for the gauge pod to be shipped, you can start by removing your A-pillar from your vehicle. It can be removed by pulling the pillar gently with your hand from the top. It will get caught halfway. So you need to manually slide a metal clip on the top/back of the pillar. After doing so the pillar should slide out with you.



You need to remove the stock upholstery and the Sony speaker from the pillar so your fiberglass cloth can stick and make the whole pillar strong.









Now, once you have your gauge pod try to cut any "extra" edges from your gauge pod with scissors so that your gauge pod can be situated on the pillar without having any jumping edges. Small imperfections are fine as this is a universal gauge pod and later you will bond both these pieces together and you can sand any imperfections. But try your best to have it situated on the pillar with minimal edge clearance as much as possible. 

Now use tape or paper glue as at this step you DON'T want these two parts to stick just yet. Now go back to your car and reinstall your pillar and make sure you like how the gauge pod is positioned. If you don't like what you see reposition it accordingly. Once you are done, use a pencil to trace down the position of your universal dual gauge pod on your pillar.   

Drill two large holes with a hole saw on the pillar to run any wires you want. 



Apply a couple of layers of fiberglass cloth on the A pillar to strengthen the whole structure. The instructions on the Bondo Fiberglass repair kit box are sufficient and clear. Follow what it says! http://3mauto.com/bondo-fiberglass-resin-repair-kit-420.html#DcCogQtxElKDPdgv.97



Now, let it dry then position your universal dual gauge pod on your A-pillar to fiberglass it. You have several options. You can use screws or super glue or whatever to stick your gauge pod to your A-pillar. I would not recommend metal screws as in places where there is a big variation in temperature (Canada) this can compromise the whole structure down the road.

Now fiberglass this bad boy.




Allow the material to cure.

Use sand paper to sand and smoothen the surface in preparation for Bondo's fiberglass filler also called putty.

Apply Bondo fiberglass filler. Read the instruction on it and follow what it says.





Allow the material to cure.

Sand what you just made and follow the instruction on the putty package. It will tell you what sandpaper grit you need to finish the job.

You have three options now. Either paint the whole thing using primer like this





or black paint it like this





or you could find a company that can upholster your pillar. I did both and found that using upholstery makes it look like a factory job. So I did some research and found a company who does this kind of work. Here is their website: http://www.nolimitautotrim.com/

If you remember at the beginning of the post I removed the stock upholstery from the factory pillar. This was given to the upholsterer so that he can find an exact replica of the material before starting the job.

Here are the pictures after putting everything together. I have also incorporated my Alkycontrol methanol injection light bulbs in the pillar. So that everything I need to monitor is just where I need it.









I hope this post can add some knowledge to the community for anybody who wants to go this route. Please let me know if you have any questions or comments. I will try my best to provide the best answers to my knowledge.

Cheers



-2014 Ford Taurus SHO non PP, Every option, BoVs VTA, tuned, MDesign CAI, catted downpipes, muffler delete, NGK Plugs, 160 F T-stat, Alkycontrol Methanol Injection system, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, HIDs and puddle lights.
-Chevrolet Cobalt (Supercharged) Weekend buggy!

AJP turbo

SCT Dealer/Custom Calibrator                        
Specializing in 3.5 Ecoboost   
Remote/email custom tuning including E85 blends 
Authorized retailer for all SCT devices. 
 
Former:2014 PP SHO
3 bar 93 tune, Airaid, Stainless Works non catted DP's  
405whp/520tq
Dyno
     
Current:2016 F150 2.7 Ecoboost
Tuning in progress

bpd1151

Most excellent, and nearly spot on, as to how mine was fabricated.

Don't be surprised if you turn this into a sellable item, much like crash712us did, for the center stack pod unit.

Nicely executed!

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

ZSHO

#3
How long did the whole process take ?  Definitely looks Superb,Stellar. Z   :thumb: :thumb:


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SHOdded

Excellent writeup!  Hope you don't mind I moved this into the HOW TO section :)
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

derfdog15

I could definitely see this being a something you could make some cash off of, do them made to order, and either require a customer core, OR source the pillar new/used and include that cost in total cost.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

dr.dodge


Thank you all for the encouragement and kind words!

Quote from: ZSHO on January 18, 2017, 06:52:24 AM
How long did the whole process take ?  Definitely looks Superb,Stellar. Z   :thumb: :thumb:

The job was straight forward but I can't really say how long it took me as I only worked on it when I had some free time to spare. So it was an on-off kind of project. Not sure how many hours I spent on it, to be honest. But I would reckon it would take me a weekend if I had to do it again. Sanding this thing took the most hours, for sure.
-2014 Ford Taurus SHO non PP, Every option, BoVs VTA, tuned, MDesign CAI, catted downpipes, muffler delete, NGK Plugs, 160 F T-stat, Alkycontrol Methanol Injection system, Daytime BrightLites switchback DRLs, HIDs and puddle lights.
-Chevrolet Cobalt (Supercharged) Weekend buggy!

jbrown9999

Nice handy work...it would take me 10 tries just to get that right.  Very impressive!
2016 Ford SHO w/ PP w/ SCT X4 w/ Gearhead tune,
MDesign CAI, non-noise maker pipe
Gapped/colder plugs, Thermostat w/ Water Wetter
MSD COPS, aFe Silver Bullet intake spacer
UPR catch can, BOV to atmosphere mod

glock-coma

Very nice thx for posting.

I'm in the process of something similar.
I'm making some tweeter speaker pods formed with resin/mat.
2010 red candy metallic non PP 402B
AJPTURBO 2 BAR Tune Stock 14.1@100.3 / Tuned 12.83@107.7
K&N panel, RX OCC, Sp-534 @.30 Tint 50%F-35%R BOV bypass
1997 SHO silver frost (sold)
1990 SHO triple black 5-speed (saved my life)

SHOdded

Quote from: glock-coma on January 19, 2017, 04:09:27 PM
Very nice thx for posting.

I'm in the process of something similar.
I'm making some tweeter speaker pods formed with resin/mat.
Be sure to post 'em pics , maybe even a writeup, as you go along/when done, glock!
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!