• Welcome to Ecoboost Performance Forum. Please log in or sign up.
collapse

Help set my expectations. Just did my SHO.. Not quite experiencing nirvana

Started by TopherSho, November 18, 2016, 10:16:42 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

TopherSho

Ok specs 1st
92p tune from Torrie
plugs (.028) from his site pregapped.
3 bar MAP

I programmed it last night, and have been driving for about 4 hours,  my impressions are 'good' but I am also thinking "this is not what I read the expected behavior to be". 

Can the great internetz help set my expectations correctly ?

Without down pipes,  it feels remarkably the same under 2500 rpm.  AFTER 2500 it is 'stronger' but it is defiantly not ripping up my tires as some have posted.  I ASSUME that is expected since I cannot make boost that much sooner without HFC and downpipes.  please correct me if I am wrong on my assumption on this..

Another thing others posted frequently is the torque steer complaints.  Definitely not seeing torque steer issues either .. which make me think we need to data log and calibrate a bit (this is the 1st tune btw, no calibration has occurred yet). 

The next thing that seems different than other people have noted is chirping tires.  Definitely not doing that.  It was a balmy 44 degrees F this morning and I gave it the WOT beans and certainly no chipping occurred on the 1-2 shift.  This btw is on some slightly cheaper goodyear DWS style tires.  Anyone else comment on 92p octane + 3bar + .28 plug performance up top?   It makes me wonder if I am reving too high (it wasin full auto mode) and shifting under powered.. (this has happened on the OEM tune where it runs right up to the limiter),  or if the AFR + winter gas is causing a loss...

Tq management. 
Holy s***.   Its weird.  I am going to give it a week before I do anything but holy crap does it shift hard at 50% throttle. At WOT it shift likes bullet.  pop-pop-pop! not to hard, not soft like it was before but it snaps into gear quickly and without drama. *perfect*.

At normal speeds.. it is like normal... soft and grandpa lazy shifting.. slightly more throttle makes it crisper but the wife doesn't even feel the difference.

but at 50% throttle ... WTAF.  BAM!  Negans bat just hit the car in the ass. prime example I can replicate.. 50% throttle 4-2 downshifts are BRUTAL, LOUD and "did I break it" jarring.  Will that tone down over time?  Or do I need to adjust the pressure for downshifts?  In my head I really do not care about downshift pressure.. I am happy to soften that up.  All I care about is the much crisper upshifting under wot which 'seems' fine..

At 50% throttle upshifts are also pretty hard.  Not spine shattering, but it is eye opening at 5:30am. I have not made my mind up yet on the harder upshifts when not WoT... I am thinking when at the track WoT shifts will be more important to reduce ET's by reducing the time spent soft-shifting.  Dunno.

I fully expect the need to re-calibrate.. so I am not disappointed at all.  but i am curious if others have had similar experiences or advice.

thank you in advance.



 

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

ZSHO

Do you have access to 93 octane fuel? The first tune will always be the softest tune and its crucial to datalog and monitor AFR readings in order to get the most benefits and optimum feel in performance and it will take roughly 5 tune revisions and some have had roughly 10-20 tune revisions before they were satisfied with the level of performance and so may variables to consider such as mileage staying on top of maintenance aspect so due update your signature with your current vehicle and a list of all your mods,thanks.  Z


2013 Performance Package SHO| Livernois Custom Methanol Tune|3-Bar Map|Reische-170-Stat|Full Race Tial-10psi BOV in Black|PPE-Gloss Black Hot Pipes|EPP Dual Intake in Gloss Black|PPE Catted DP|Corsa Sport Cat Back Exhaust|H&R Sport-Springs|CFM Performance Billet Valve Cover Breather In Gloss Black|Llumar 20%Ceramic window Tint|MSD Ignition Coils in Black|Extreme Roof Spoiler|Redline Fluids all around|Gearhead Intercooler|First-SHO With Direct Port Alky-VP-M1-100%-Methanol Injection|LMS-Custom-Dyno-Tuned @ 415whp-465wtq| Best Trap Speed of 115.54 mph|

SHOdded

Is this the first tune you have loaded from Torrie?  Then I would say your experience is pretty typical.  He starts off conservatively, then you add in a couple of datalogs and revisions.  You should notice a significant difference between revisions as long as there is room to spare.  Most only need a few revisions to get to the "happy" spot.

As far as shifts, you can ask him to dial down the shift pressures a bit.  Also I assume you have done fluids maintenance prior to tuning the car.  If not, now would be a good time.
2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

Blackhawk

The cars tend to shift harder after reprogramming until it relearns, I was like WTF as well after getting tuned and it got better a couple days.

derfdog15

Definitely wont be crazy until atleast a few revisions, with my AJP tune the first and second rev didn't up the boost enough to cause traction issues, the 3rd one made me almost need new pants due to the increased torque, and ripped tires.

Another thing to note, especially with shifting, is that is is always a bit rough after a retune. After the car settles in they usually soften up.

Also do you have a 13+ or a 10-12? 13+ don't KAM reset on retune, so fuel trims, etc. stay and shift behavior/idle learn also seems to stay. 10-12s OAR resets, fuel trims reset, and learned idle etc. may as well.

If you notice that it has odd idle behavior, do a KAM reset on the SCT device, and then let it idle with AC off until it is warm, then idle with AC on for about 1-2 minutes, and after that drive it a bit.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

TopherSho

Crap I did not post the year : 2010.. NON-PP

Sorry about that.

Next Question:  When do I retune?  Torrie did not bring it up and I don't want to harass the poor guy if you are supposed to wait a few days 1st.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TopherSho

Quote from: SHOdded on November 18, 2016, 10:56:12 AM
Is this the first tune you have loaded from Torrie?  Then I would say your experience is pretty typical.  He starts off conservatively, then you add in a couple of datalogs and revisions.  You should notice a significant difference between revisions as long as there is room to spare.  Most only need a few revisions to get to the "happy" spot.

As far as shifts, you can ask him to dial down the shift pressures a bit.  Also I assume you have done fluids maintenance prior to tuning the car.  If not, now would be a good time.

Ok,  that lines up in my head.  I just needed to hear it to make sure.  Thank you.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TopherSho

Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 10:59:27 AM
Definitely wont be crazy until atleast a few revisions, with my AJP tune the first and second rev didn't up the boost enough to cause traction issues, the 3rd one made me almost need new pants due to the increased torque, and ripped tires.

Another thing to note, especially with shifting, is that is is always a bit rough after a retune. After the car settles in they usually soften up.

Also do you have a 13+ or a 10-12? 13+ don't KAM reset on retune, so fuel trims, etc. stay and shift behavior/idle learn also seems to stay. 10-12s OAR resets, fuel trims reset, and learned idle etc. may as well.

If you notice that it has odd idle behavior, do a KAM reset on the SCT device, and then let it idle with AC off until it is warm, then idle with AC on for about 1-2 minutes, and after that drive it a bit.

Thank you as well. Well now I need to be patient then ... NOT my strong suit.  >:)
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TopherSho

Quote from: SHOdded on November 18, 2016, 10:56:12 AM
Is this the first tune you have loaded from Torrie?  Then I would say your experience is pretty typical.  He starts off conservatively, then you add in a couple of datalogs and revisions.  You should notice a significant difference between revisions as long as there is room to spare.  Most only need a few revisions to get to the "happy" spot.

As far as shifts, you can ask him to dial down the shift pressures a bit.  Also I assume you have done fluids maintenance prior to tuning the car.  If not, now would be a good time.

gah,  Here in the land of mists and trees (Oregon) we have 92 octane Chevron as the best gas around :P .  I do have access to 100-octane clear fuel but obviously not running that for Daily driving.   since the west coast seems mostly 92-bound I will stick to that tune for now, and then when spring comes used my second tune I bought for a 100-octane drag tune.

2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

derfdog15

Quote from: TopherSho on November 18, 2016, 11:28:06 AM
Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 10:59:27 AM
Definitely wont be crazy until atleast a few revisions, with my AJP tune the first and second rev didn't up the boost enough to cause traction issues, the 3rd one made me almost need new pants due to the increased torque, and ripped tires.

Another thing to note, especially with shifting, is that is is always a bit rough after a retune. After the car settles in they usually soften up.

Also do you have a 13+ or a 10-12? 13+ don't KAM reset on retune, so fuel trims, etc. stay and shift behavior/idle learn also seems to stay. 10-12s OAR resets, fuel trims reset, and learned idle etc. may as well.

If you notice that it has odd idle behavior, do a KAM reset on the SCT device, and then let it idle with AC off until it is warm, then idle with AC on for about 1-2 minutes, and after that drive it a bit.

Thank you as well. Well now I need to be patient then ... NOT my strong suit.  >:)

Definitely hard to be patient with these cars. What you will want to do when tuning is make sure your OAR levels out, you want it as close to -1 as possible. That should be one of the parameters you are datalogging and I would display it on the SCT display as well. It will go closer to negative one when load is applied and no KR(knock retard) is detected. Since you have a 2010 it will reset to 0 every time you load a tune, you want to let it level out to its maximum value before logging again. With good 93 octane, as well as 93 and E85 mixed, I typically see -.96 as my maximum value on the SCT. I would expect you to see somewhere in the -.85 or better range. Once you know where it goes at maximum you know what to look for in the future.

As far as datalogging for revisions, I would do it as soon as it is safe to do so (location, weather, etc.) and the OAR, etc. are leveled out. At a minimum without OAR set, you will want to drive about 10 minutes or 7 miles (if it doesnt reset between tunes, which being a 2010 will most likely happen) before logging. If it resets, you want it maxed out, as you will have maximum spark advance.

Once your trims are set, I would get logs, and send in for a revision. If he is busy, etc. atleast he has the files. Also if not already provided, ask Torrie if he has a list of parameters or a file for you to log from. Each tuner typically has parameters that they like to monitor. Hopefully this is helpful.
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

TopherSho

Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 12:48:39 PM
Quote from: TopherSho on November 18, 2016, 11:28:06 AM
Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 10:59:27 AM
Definitely wont be crazy until atleast a few revisions, with my AJP tune the first and second rev didn't up the boost enough to cause traction issues, the 3rd one made me almost need new pants due to the increased torque, and ripped tires.

Another thing to note, especially with shifting, is that is is always a bit rough after a retune. After the car settles in they usually soften up.

Also do you have a 13+ or a 10-12? 13+ don't KAM reset on retune, so fuel trims, etc. stay and shift behavior/idle learn also seems to stay. 10-12s OAR resets, fuel trims reset, and learned idle etc. may as well.

If you notice that it has odd idle behavior, do a KAM reset on the SCT device, and then let it idle with AC off until it is warm, then idle with AC on for about 1-2 minutes, and after that drive it a bit.

Thank you as well. Well now I need to be patient then ... NOT my strong suit.  >:)

Definitely hard to be patient with these cars. What you will want to do when tuning is make sure your OAR levels out, you want it as close to -1 as possible. That should be one of the parameters you are datalogging and I would display it on the SCT display as well. It will go closer to negative one when load is applied and no KR(knock retard) is detected. Since you have a 2010 it will reset to 0 every time you load a tune, you want to let it level out to its maximum value before logging again. With good 93 octane, as well as 93 and E85 mixed, I typically see -.96 as my maximum value on the SCT. I would expect you to see somewhere in the -.85 or better range. Once you know where it goes at maximum you know what to look for in the future.

As far as datalogging for revisions, I would do it as soon as it is safe to do so (location, weather, etc.) and the OAR, etc. are leveled out. At a minimum without OAR set, you will want to drive about 10 minutes or 7 miles (if it doesnt reset between tunes, which being a 2010 will most likely happen) before logging. If it resets, you want it maxed out, as you will have maximum spark advance.

Once your trims are set, I would get logs, and send in for a revision. If he is busy, etc. atleast he has the files. Also if not already provided, ask Torrie if he has a list of parameters or a file for you to log from. Each tuner typically has parameters that they like to monitor. Hopefully this is helpful.

Excellent. It has about 4 hours of normal driving and a few WoT runs under its belt.  it should be leveled off by your description by now.

Torrie provided a Config file to load for the Datalog.  I am off to learn how to apply it ... :)
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

derfdog15

Quote from: TopherSho on November 18, 2016, 01:03:45 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 12:48:39 PM
Quote from: TopherSho on November 18, 2016, 11:28:06 AM
Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 10:59:27 AM
Definitely wont be crazy until atleast a few revisions, with my AJP tune the first and second rev didn't up the boost enough to cause traction issues, the 3rd one made me almost need new pants due to the increased torque, and ripped tires.

Another thing to note, especially with shifting, is that is is always a bit rough after a retune. After the car settles in they usually soften up.

Also do you have a 13+ or a 10-12? 13+ don't KAM reset on retune, so fuel trims, etc. stay and shift behavior/idle learn also seems to stay. 10-12s OAR resets, fuel trims reset, and learned idle etc. may as well.

If you notice that it has odd idle behavior, do a KAM reset on the SCT device, and then let it idle with AC off until it is warm, then idle with AC on for about 1-2 minutes, and after that drive it a bit.

Thank you as well. Well now I need to be patient then ... NOT my strong suit.  >:)

Definitely hard to be patient with these cars. What you will want to do when tuning is make sure your OAR levels out, you want it as close to -1 as possible. That should be one of the parameters you are datalogging and I would display it on the SCT display as well. It will go closer to negative one when load is applied and no KR(knock retard) is detected. Since you have a 2010 it will reset to 0 every time you load a tune, you want to let it level out to its maximum value before logging again. With good 93 octane, as well as 93 and E85 mixed, I typically see -.96 as my maximum value on the SCT. I would expect you to see somewhere in the -.85 or better range. Once you know where it goes at maximum you know what to look for in the future.

As far as datalogging for revisions, I would do it as soon as it is safe to do so (location, weather, etc.) and the OAR, etc. are leveled out. At a minimum without OAR set, you will want to drive about 10 minutes or 7 miles (if it doesnt reset between tunes, which being a 2010 will most likely happen) before logging. If it resets, you want it maxed out, as you will have maximum spark advance.

Once your trims are set, I would get logs, and send in for a revision. If he is busy, etc. atleast he has the files. Also if not already provided, ask Torrie if he has a list of parameters or a file for you to log from. Each tuner typically has parameters that they like to monitor. Hopefully this is helpful.

Excellent. It has about 4 hours of normal driving and a few WoT runs under its belt.  it should be leveled off by your description by now.

Torrie provided a Config file to load for the Datalog.  I am off to learn how to apply it ... :)

Enjoy! If you have any issue, here is some instruction from some mustang tune vendors. I used the BAMA link to learn for mine. Both are pretty good though. If you have any issues, there are some extremely knowledgeable people on this forum.

Also remember to take note of that OAR value, and make sure you are the same value for future datalogging. Also keep an eye on it as if your gas changes from normal to winter blend or vice versa that can effect things.

https://support.bamaperformance.com/hc/en-us/articles/202545589-How-to-Datalog-with-the-Bama-SCT-X4-SF4
https://support.lundracing.com/hc/en-us/articles/206010538-HOW-TO-DATALOG-WITH-FOR-X3-AND-X4-HANDHELD-USERS-IN-DETAIL
2015 Tuxedo Black SHO PP -(SAE corrected): 369.4/451.4 - Gone to the automotive graveyard but not forgotten

2016 F150 FX4 Sport - 3.5L V6 Ecoboost - Stock for now

2003 Redfire V6 Mustang - Building to be an 11 second car

SHOdded

2007 Ford Edge SEL, Powerstop F/R Brake Kit, TXT LED 6000K Lo & Hi Beams, W16W LED Reverse Bulbs, 3BSpec 2.5w Map Lights, 5W Cree rear dome lights, 5W Cree cargo light, DTBL LED Taillights

If tuned:  Take note of the strategy code as you return to stock (including 3 bar MAP to 2 bar MAP) -> take car in & get it serviced -> check strategy code when you get car back -> have tuner update your tune if the strategy code has changed -> reload tune -> ENJOY!

TopherSho

Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 01:20:04 PM
Quote from: TopherSho on November 18, 2016, 01:03:45 PM
Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 12:48:39 PM
Quote from: TopherSho on November 18, 2016, 11:28:06 AM
Quote from: derfdog15 on November 18, 2016, 10:59:27 AM
Definitely wont be crazy until atleast a few revisions, with my AJP tune the first and second rev didn't up the boost enough to cause traction issues, the 3rd one made me almost need new pants due to the increased torque, and ripped tires.

Another thing to note, especially with shifting, is that is is always a bit rough after a retune. After the car settles in they usually soften up.

Also do you have a 13+ or a 10-12? 13+ don't KAM reset on retune, so fuel trims, etc. stay and shift behavior/idle learn also seems to stay. 10-12s OAR resets, fuel trims reset, and learned idle etc. may as well.

If you notice that it has odd idle behavior, do a KAM reset on the SCT device, and then let it idle with AC off until it is warm, then idle with AC on for about 1-2 minutes, and after that drive it a bit.

Thank you as well. Well now I need to be patient then ... NOT my strong suit.  >:)

Definitely hard to be patient with these cars. What you will want to do when tuning is make sure your OAR levels out, you want it as close to -1 as possible. That should be one of the parameters you are datalogging and I would display it on the SCT display as well. It will go closer to negative one when load is applied and no KR(knock retard) is detected. Since you have a 2010 it will reset to 0 every time you load a tune, you want to let it level out to its maximum value before logging again. With good 93 octane, as well as 93 and E85 mixed, I typically see -.96 as my maximum value on the SCT. I would expect you to see somewhere in the -.85 or better range. Once you know where it goes at maximum you know what to look for in the future.

As far as datalogging for revisions, I would do it as soon as it is safe to do so (location, weather, etc.) and the OAR, etc. are leveled out. At a minimum without OAR set, you will want to drive about 10 minutes or 7 miles (if it doesnt reset between tunes, which being a 2010 will most likely happen) before logging. If it resets, you want it maxed out, as you will have maximum spark advance.

Once your trims are set, I would get logs, and send in for a revision. If he is busy, etc. atleast he has the files. Also if not already provided, ask Torrie if he has a list of parameters or a file for you to log from. Each tuner typically has parameters that they like to monitor. Hopefully this is helpful.

Excellent. It has about 4 hours of normal driving and a few WoT runs under its belt.  it should be leveled off by your description by now.

Torrie provided a Config file to load for the Datalog.  I am off to learn how to apply it ... :)

Enjoy! If you have any issue, here is some instruction from some mustang tune vendors. I used the BAMA link to learn for mine. Both are pretty good though. If you have any issues, there are some extremely knowledgeable people on this forum.

Also remember to take note of that OAR value, and make sure you are the same value for future datalogging. Also keep an eye on it as if your gas changes from normal to winter blend or vice versa that can effect things.

https://support.bamaperformance.com/hc/en-us/articles/202545589-How-to-Datalog-with-the-Bama-SCT-X4-SF4
https://support.lundracing.com/hc/en-us/articles/206010538-HOW-TO-DATALOG-WITH-FOR-X3-AND-X4-HANDHELD-USERS-IN-DETAIL

Nice,  links were spot on.
2010 non-pp, 98k miles, 3-bar,  .026 plugs, SNOW-KIT STG1, AJPTurbu tune#35, 15.5+psi
Best 0-60 public road 4.35s
Best 1/4 of 12.61 no DA correction

TxGt1

Quote from: ZSHO on November 18, 2016, 10:51:01 AM
Do you have access to 93 octane fuel? The first tune will always be the softest tune and its crucial to datalog and monitor AFR readings in order to get the most benefits and optimum feel in performance and it will take roughly 5 tune revisions and some have had roughly 10-20 tune revisions before they were satisfied with the level of performance and so may variables to consider such as mileage staying on top of maintenance aspect so due update your signature with your current vehicle and a list of all your mods,thanks.  Z

I can see maybe 5 revisions. If I need 10-20 I think I might try another tuner. I have had several mustangs never needed 10 revisions. Maybe ecoboost tuning is different?
2014 Xsport- CAI, 170 stat, 3bar, tune

2011 Mustang Gt 401A- Off road exhaust, suspension, Lund tuned etc.