Denso ITV22 plugs installed

[metroplex]

I installed the Denso ITV22 plugs. They came pre-gapped to 0.028" so I didn't have to mess with gapping.

The original SP-534 plugs were all gapped to 0.032" (none of them were wildly off) but almost didn't want to come out of the heads (like most OEM factory installed plugs).  I applied a dab of anti-seize on the new plug threads, applied silicone grease on the porcelain part of the plug, and torqued to 15 N-m. This seems like such a low torque value, but it ends up being snugging the plug and adding 1/16" turn just like on the Denso packaging.

The original plugs looked great, like the model used spark plug.

The engine runs a tad gruffer/rougher during a cold start, but as soon as I start driving and once the engine is warmed up, the idle is back to normal. I'm starting to hear more of the turbocharger and BOV's for some reason, but it could be the cooler ambient air.

[AJP turbo]

Spark plugs have been known to have an effect on blow off valves and turbochargers

[SHOdded]

Sounds like a pretty solid WIN with these plugs, stock or tuned?   Look forward to your opinion on long-term performance!

[AJP turbo]

Sounds like a pretty solid WIN with these plugs, stock or tuned?   Look forward to your opinion on long-term performance!

He is tuned remember shodded....18 psi 87 octane and conventional oil because synthetic is not needed

[metroplex]

The car is tuned and has a 3-bar MAP (mainly so the MAP readings can go over ~15.5 psi). I would have kept using the stock plugs except the knock retard was sporadic. Sometimes there'd be zero knock during WOT runs even in the summer, and sometimes it'd have knock even with cooler ambient air. I just wanted some extra leeway. JMS-Yates doesn't recommend anything other than SP-534's gapped at 0.030" for their boostmax, but it seems LMS and Unleashed recommend colder plugs and the colder t-stat. I'm going to stick with the stock factory t-start.

I'm running a 17-18 psi tune with 93 octane fuel. Factory/stock spark advance settings at WOT track conditions is about 7*-8* (HPTuners VCM Scanner datalogging).

[ZSHO]

X2 looking forward to your results with the Denso's.....personally don't like to use any anti-seize which could risk over-torqueing especially with the fragile aluminum heads but due like using a tab of some dielectric grease,think it calls for 11 ft lb,best of luck to ya and Metroplex due update your signature,thanks. Z

[metroplex]

I checked the Chilton's online service manuals, and they said the plugs were torqued to 15 N-m (or 133 in-lb). This seemed low to me because I remember the modular V8s having more torque for the plugs. But I've always used anti-seize on plugs for aluminum heads. Without the anti-seize, it seems like the plugs don't want to come out over time! I've heard good arguments for either side of the case though. But it seems like the torquing is dependent on the resistance of the tapered seal against the head and not necessarily the threads.

If you have the Ford service manual, please check on the torque. I found the latest chilton's online service manual to be almost an exact copy of the Ford manual, complete with the 3D CAD diagrams Ford is now using.

[SHOdded]

Sounds like a pretty solid WIN with these plugs, stock or tuned?   Look forward to your opinion on long-term performance!

He is tuned remember shodded....18 psi 87 octane and conventional oil because synthetic is not needed

Ha.  I am concerned, but watching . I always hope for the best possible outcome!

[SHOdded]

I would not trust Chilton's 100℅ (some bad history there) but 133 in lb or. 11 ft lb IS correct in this instance.

I would also try a full synthetic 5W30 to see if the startup and idle improve.  Find an oil with a great flash point and black.

[metroplex]

The startup/idle was always fine with the stock factory plugs even in the winter. It just seems a touch gruffier/rougher when it is cold with these ITV22's. I'll have to keep an eye on it as our temperatures drop in Michigan.

[Randy Stinchcomb]

What I like todo iz Tq the plugs into the head to "crush" the Crush Washer, back off on the plug and Re-Tq them.
I have the Denso ITV22 plugs but have not installed them yet, I may wait till spring todo tge 160° thermo and plugs.

My question iz, when do you need a 3 bar map and do you Have to have a tune to run 1?

[SHOdded]

You don't NEED a 3bar MAP if spikes are not going to exceed say 14 or so psi.  If you do get a 3bar MAP, you also need a tune to run it, as the voltage calculations (indicative of pressure level) are different, and the PCM won't know how to respond appropriately if not tuned for it.

[Randy Stinchcomb]

That's what I thought, thanks

[metroplex]

A 3 bar MAP allows you to read more than ~15.5 psi at the manifold. The throttle inlet pressure (TIP) sensor at the throttle body is already a 3-bar sensor. In fact, the 3-bar MAP on the SHO is just the TIP sensor. So you can just order the Motorcraft CX-2231 TIP sensor and swap out MAP sensors. If you can tune your SHO, just copy the TIP slope and offset over to the MAP slope and offset with the 3-bar MAP.

Our EcoBoost 3.5 engines, just like the modular engines, use taper seal plugs and don't use gaskets/crush washers.

[AJP turbo]

Its not quite 15.5 psi but close...at about 206 kpa the voltage is saturated so thats about 15.18 psi and if you are only spiking slightly over that then i would iust let the stft's add the fuel...you could handle 16 psi no problem for spikes although not ideal

And its not the slope and offset values as metroplex suggests that need changed but the slope and intercept values for the map sensor.....there is no such scalar for the tip or map sensor

The offset values are for the fuel model for the curve not the sensors themselves